AusTexRex

This morning I go to start up my car, and I have the air conditioner on, and stereo on, but no lights or anything (sometimes it idles rough when I have a lot of electric devices on), when the car bounces from 750-1000 in idle, over and over until I put my foot on the gas to get it up to 2k until it steadied (about 10-20 seconds).
I suspect that my Pulsation Dampener is going out seeing as how I have an 87 TII with about 130k miles on it and the PD has never been replaced. I really really hope it's not the PD simply because I worry any time I start driving that my car will ignite .
Even if it isn't the PD I am going to replace it, it's old as is, and it would be a huge weight off my shoulders to stop worrying about my baby.
Anyone have any idea what's going on?
And should I go get my PD done by Mazda or is it relatively easy to fix; how would one go about doing that?
Thanks in advance,
Dave

FC3SDrifter82

Definitely get it replaced, the sooner the better...it was a common problem on the 86 to 88 TIIs, and you're right in the middle of that category there...you could buy one from Mazda Comp Parts, I believe...as for fixing it, I don't know myself, maybe someone else here can shed some light on that?

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

The PD has no effect on how the car starts, runs, or idles. That issue sounds like a TPS problem or vacuum leak.

The PD is responsible only for fuel and leakage.

AusTexRex

Rotary: ok so I should probably check all my vacuum hoses and zip tie them securely (read in a few places that, that is a good idea). As for the TPS, does it need to be replaced? Also can you explain how to replace the PD, I'm good with tools and cars, but I've never encountered this type of problem.

HAILERS

There are a number of on-line places to get a free factory service manual. Look at the top of this second gen site and go to the frequently asked question site.

The fsm tells you how to set the tps, idle etc. You need to buy a digital volt meter first if you don't have one.

There is also a SEARCH ENGINE on this site. It's located at the top of THIS PAGE, to the right.

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

If your car is original with 130k the PD is most definitely a leak risk. I would replace it with a banjo bolt, or a new PD, one of the two, IMMEDIATELY. To do this, you have to remove your intercooler and upper intake...a pretty involved task if you are not familiar with the car. Allow yourself a day's time for this. While you're in there, you should plan to replace at least half of the original vacuum hoses,,,everything on the passenger's half of the engine will be crispy and one collective leak.

As for the TPS, it usually won't cause actual running/driving problems, just a funny idle. IF this bothers you enough, you can start adjusting it, or try other used units. New ones cost about $200, and won't make the car run any faster, so not many people go that route...they still aren't perfect, even with a NEW tps.

AusTexRex

Ok thanks RR. I have a day off tomorrow so I'll take it down to Mazda and have them do the PD, and later I'll do the hoses myself. I prefer to have things that could blow my car up be under warranty . Now for those pesky locks.

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

No, I don't think you understand. When you're in there at the PD, that is the same place where the worst vacuum, hoses will be. So they should be done at the same time.

Oh, and you should NOT let the dealership do this unless there is a rotary tech there. Dealerships screw these cars ALL TO HELL. My dealership will not even work on one, they hand out my business cards instead.

I strongly advise that you do this yourself, or if you don't feel confident, take it to the nearest rotary specialist shop and let them do the hose job and PD replacement for you.

AusTexRex

Thank you thank you, I just looked around and read a lot of stuff that says Mazda is rx7-retarded. I guess I'll be doing it myself.
One last newbie question: Where would I buy a PD, and vacuum hosing?

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

A PD would be a dealer only (or dealer parts supplier like mazdatrix or mazdaformance) part. Most people dont buy new ones, since they don't perform any active function in the car. They use a 10 dollar banjo bolt replacement instead. Check out my webpage for a quick outline: www.rotaryresurrection.com in the tech section.

For vacuum hose, standard 5/32" black from autozone is what I use on all my engines. It fits nice and snug and is readily available and cheap(er) than silicone hose. I am not a fan of silicone for rotaries, most of the cheap readily available stuff is too thin and collapses under the heat of the rotary engine's bay, causing all sorts of problems.

spaz

could it aslo be b/c off all the power that you are drawing too much power from the engine especially with the a/c.... just a possability but i could be totally wrong...

AusTexRex

Ok thanks, I'll get on that tomorrow . You've been a great help!
Dave