whats easier clutch install
08-29-07, 11:01 PM
#1
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whats easier clutch install
I am going to change my clutch and flywheel this winter and I am curious is it easier and time wise more or less consuming to change the clutch and flywheel with the engien in the car or out of the car? I figured I would just remove the driveshaft, pull the trans and do the rest with the engine still in the car.. does this sound fine or should I do this with the engine out of the car?
I am going to a stage 2 spec kit and a fidanza 8lb aluminum flywheel.. I will have to install a counter weight as well
I am going to a stage 2 spec kit and a fidanza 8lb aluminum flywheel.. I will have to install a counter weight as well
08-29-07, 11:49 PM
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It can be done in the car. Just take out the shifter, and make sure you have an impact gun and the socket big enough for the flywheel nut. I think its 2 1/8" or something, i forgot. It might be a good time to change rear main seal, and rear tranny seal if they are leaking
08-29-07, 11:53 PM
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depends if you're doing it back yard style because its somewhat of a pain to do things a foot off the ground... if you have a lift because you're blessed its such a breeze ... i dont think alot of people would suggest pulling the motor unless you have to... you can risk damaging alot of things... most important being the harness since its brittle
08-30-07, 12:04 AM
#5
Just the person I wanted to talk to. 
Now to answer your questions. Unless you plan to pull the engine for a rebuild, I'd leave it in and pull the tranny. Yes it is easier to deal with the flywheel to counterweight swap if the engine is out of the vehicle, but it is really not that bad to do the swap with it in. If you employ the hit the outer edge of the flywheel with a 2lbs sledge, you're going to want adequate hearing protection. That tranny tunnel really concentrates noise.
I did a stock to light steel flywheel swap in my '83 a couple months ago and it went ok. No need to pull the engine unless you need to do it for other reasons.
2 1/8" is close enough to work if you can't find 54mm.
Now to answer your questions. Unless you plan to pull the engine for a rebuild, I'd leave it in and pull the tranny. Yes it is easier to deal with the flywheel to counterweight swap if the engine is out of the vehicle, but it is really not that bad to do the swap with it in. If you employ the hit the outer edge of the flywheel with a 2lbs sledge, you're going to want adequate hearing protection.
That tranny tunnel really concentrates noise.I did a stock to light steel flywheel swap in my '83 a couple months ago and it went ok. No need to pull the engine unless you need to do it for other reasons.
2 1/8" is close enough to work if you can't find 54mm.
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