whats the best way and i know castrols the best too. but with the oil cooler holdin some of the old oil how the way to get that out all at once. I remember a guy writin he had 300,000 miles and he did it a certain way. And thats the way that i would want to change it.

 

Don't sweat it....I think most of the oil in the cooler drains into the pan anyway....as always you should warm the engine before changing oil...other than that...change as normal.

TOdd

 

In my '89 T2 I just use 5 quarts of Castrol GTX 20W-50 about every 1500~2000 miles. Just changed two days ago. If you really wanted to clean it out you could runs your engine for a few minutes after putting fresh oil in and drain it immediately only to put in some more fresh oil. This'll get any nastiness that was left behind the first draining. This is another good reason not to use synthetic. The oil I use is only $1.69/qt.

jerk_racer@hotmail.com

 

Hey, I also have an '89 TII and I run 10W-40, as recommended in the manual. What's the advantage to running 20W-50?

 

20W50 is thicker and has a higher viscosity, which helps with higher temperatures or something like that. When it starts to get cold you should use something thinner, like 10W30. I heard that 10W40 isn't that great to use.

 

Hey, I use Valvoline VR1 Racing 20W-50 all year round, but I live in Texas, so it doesn't really get all THAT cold...especially when I drive it! But I usually try to do it every 2500-3000 miles. I changed it on Wednesday. Anyway, happy motoring.

 

I also run the castrol 20w-50.

 

I used to use that in the spring and summer until I removed my oil metering pump. Good stuff.

 

I use Royal Purple regular synthetic 5W30 in my 91 N/A vert, and Royal Purple Racing 21 in our Project 86. There is a life long argument on synthetics and viscosities, but that is what I use. I gained 2hp on the Project 86 with that oil, and my oil temps dropped 15F in identicle conditions. There are no new leaks from either of the engines.

This is what Royal Purple told me when I was asking them questions about the oil thicknesses:

" If a guy is running down the beach in water up to his knees, and another guy is running with water up to his ankles, who is running easier?"

Well that is the guy running in the ankle deep water. That is the same with oil viscosity. Thinner oil flows easier, so it will circulate faster through the system. I also think that due to it being thiner is where I got the lower temps. Some say that it won't burn, but with the RP oil having a flashpoint of 600F, and the combustion temps of a rotary being between 1200F and 1600F that is just not acurate

Good luck!

(speaking of oil change...I need to go do one)

 

I made a mistake. I used to use the Valvoline VR Racing 50 WT. Now I'm using Mobil 1 10W30 for the fall.