What would you pay for a TII with a bad motor
10-19-05, 08:36 AM
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What would you pay for a TII with a bad motor
Just wondering.I have come across a 10AE with a bad motor. The body looks good from the photos, and there is some wear on the driver side seat. I think it has under 100k miles on it as if i recall it was a "fun" car for the owner. It is pretty much all stock from what I know. It is missing the driver side Flash to pass lens. The motor is bad and from what I have been told it has been sitting since Jan and will not start.
How much would you pay?
Also what are good places and prices to pay for used engines?
How much do you think the average "rx7" shop would charge for a swap seeing as I dont have time to at the moment and would probably have to sell my current ride to get the TII if i did. So i would need it running ASAP
I want to take a look at it and will read the "buying Guides" on here before I do. I just dont want to end up selling my turboed miata to end up with more issues.
How much would you pay?
Also what are good places and prices to pay for used engines?
How much do you think the average "rx7" shop would charge for a swap seeing as I dont have time to at the moment and would probably have to sell my current ride to get the TII if i did. So i would need it running ASAP
I want to take a look at it and will read the "buying Guides" on here before I do. I just dont want to end up selling my turboed miata to end up with more issues.
10-19-05, 08:41 AM
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Maybe start with the private party price from KBB.com.
Then look it over & make a list of repairs starting with about $2000 for a motor.
Suptract the repairs from the KBB price.
He may owe you..
Then look it over & make a list of repairs starting with about $2000 for a motor.
Suptract the repairs from the KBB price.
He may owe you..
10-19-05, 08:42 AM
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they say its bad but why dont you try and do a compression check. If the rotors and seals are good then everything else is cheap to fix compared to the actual engine block. then if u can fix it ask for sumtin low like 2 g or less maybe
10-19-05, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Hellkat
they say its bad but why dont you try and do a compression check. If the rotors and seals are good then everything else is cheap to fix compared to the actual engine block. then if u can fix it ask for sumtin low like 2 g or less maybe
Isnt the Comp check different on a rotary motor? I have a compression testers i borrowed from a friend when I was trying to diagnose some vaccum issues on my miata so i could take that with me.
Hellkat, are you saying if the compression is good then the fix might not be to expensive? I think the guy said the vaccum was low. Not sure if he was referring to the motor or like boost gauge/vac gauge refference
KBB says 2,785
Last edited by Pitlab77; 10-19-05 at 10:24 AM.
10-19-05, 11:13 AM
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100K is nearing the end of days for a "fun" driven turbo.
You can use a standard compression tester - just hold the bleed valve open & read the needle bounces in sets of 3.
This may be a $800-1000 deal.
You can use a standard compression tester - just hold the bleed valve open & read the needle bounces in sets of 3.
This may be a $800-1000 deal.
Last edited by SureShot; 10-19-05 at 11:16 AM.
10-19-05, 12:06 PM
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My rule of thumb.... if it doesn't run... its worth 500 bucks if its otherwise stock.....
then you figure half price for every aftermarket part..
So... if its got a blown motor but has a RB exhaust that relatively new... then its worth arounf 900..
If they tell you its got Tokiko's on it, but they can't give you a mileage from when they were put on.... BAH... no dice... shocks are a wear item...
then you figure half price for every aftermarket part..
So... if its got a blown motor but has a RB exhaust that relatively new... then its worth arounf 900..
If they tell you its got Tokiko's on it, but they can't give you a mileage from when they were put on.... BAH... no dice... shocks are a wear item...
10-19-05, 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by YearsOfDecay
My rule of thumb.... if it doesn't run... its worth 500 bucks
Ditto
What you want to look for is in what condition the body is in. Motors pop and get rebuilt, plain and simple. But if the body is a rusted bucket, there is no point to that motor being in there.
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10-19-05, 12:56 PM
#8
1k for a blown TII would be a normal price around here.
If it's NA blown then $500.
The usual ways for an engine to go is old age/compression
or detonation
The old age one usually leaves parts reusable but they are old.
Detonation usually takes stuff out like the turbo exhaust turbine or housings/rotors/apex seals.
So the rebuild at a minimum will cost around 1400+ as long as parts are good.
A rebuild will be in order for the turbo too(80k+ usually means the selas are going and they have too much play).
If it's NA blown then $500.
The usual ways for an engine to go is old age/compression
or detonation
The old age one usually leaves parts reusable but they are old.
Detonation usually takes stuff out like the turbo exhaust turbine or housings/rotors/apex seals.
So the rebuild at a minimum will cost around 1400+ as long as parts are good.
A rebuild will be in order for the turbo too(80k+ usually means the selas are going and they have too much play).
10-19-05, 02:23 PM
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wow that little is a fair price. Man I am prob going to sound cheap to the person but I do agree on the price drop as i thought all along a new motor would be in the 2k range.
I wish I were more had more knowledge of the rotary motor.
I wish I were more had more knowledge of the rotary motor.
10-19-05, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by YearsOfDecay
My rule of thumb.... if it doesn't run... its worth 500 bucks if its otherwise stock.....
then you figure half price for every aftermarket part..
So... if its got a blown motor but has a RB exhaust that relatively new... then its worth arounf 900..
If they tell you its got Tokiko's on it, but they can't give you a mileage from when they were put on.... BAH... no dice... shocks are a wear item...
then you figure half price for every aftermarket part..
So... if its got a blown motor but has a RB exhaust that relatively new... then its worth arounf 900..
If they tell you its got Tokiko's on it, but they can't give you a mileage from when they were put on.... BAH... no dice... shocks are a wear item...
Pretty much!!!!!
Once had a friend buy a 2 year old corvette that had a shitty motor and a little front end damage. By the time he got done with the repairs he coulda got a clean one for the same price. I would say max out at a 1000 becuz if you go on ebay or autotrader you can get at least a running one for that price.
10-19-05, 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by westler91
Pretty much!!!!!
Once had a friend buy a 2 year old corvette that had a shitty motor and a little front end damage. By the time he got done with the repairs he coulda got a clean one for the same price. I would say max out at a 1000 becuz if you go on ebay or autotrader you can get at least a running one for that price.
Once had a friend buy a 2 year old corvette that had a shitty motor and a little front end damage. By the time he got done with the repairs he coulda got a clean one for the same price. I would say max out at a 1000 becuz if you go on ebay or autotrader you can get at least a running one for that price.
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