what voltage should i be running at idle?
#1
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what voltage should i be running at idle?
i havfe an autometer voltmeter, and it says that i have aroun 10 or 1q1q volts when the lkey is in the on posi tion, but then when i get i;t stzarted and the motor idles, it goes to about 13 or 142. is this acceptable?
#2
Re: what voltage should i be running at idle?
Originally posted by RiceRocket
i havfe an autometer voltmeter, and it says that i have aroun 10 or 1q1q volts when the lkey is in the on posi tion, but then when i get i;t stzarted and the motor idles, it goes to about 13 or 142. is this acceptable?
i havfe an autometer voltmeter, and it says that i have aroun 10 or 1q1q volts when the lkey is in the on posi tion, but then when i get i;t stzarted and the motor idles, it goes to about 13 or 142. is this acceptable?
#4
Ok I went and checked for you(aren't I nice lol) and I get 12.4 with the key to the on position. Turned the headlights on with the car off and it dropped to 12.1. I do have a brand new battery though. All that shows you is that my battery is stronger than yours. How old is yours anyways?
#5
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
A brand new battery with no draw should be resting at 12.6 volts.
The car running to charge that battery you would need 13.2 volts minumum, preferably 13.6 volts +.
A new or rebuilt alt should have the voltage at 14.4 to 14.6 volts.
Anything under 12.6 volts while running and you're draining the battery.
above 15 volts is bad!
The car running to charge that battery you would need 13.2 volts minumum, preferably 13.6 volts +.
A new or rebuilt alt should have the voltage at 14.4 to 14.6 volts.
Anything under 12.6 volts while running and you're draining the battery.
above 15 volts is bad!
#7
Originally posted by NZConvertible
You should have at least 12V with the ignition on, and then ~14V with the engine running. Much less and I'd get your alternator check out.
You should have at least 12V with the ignition on, and then ~14V with the engine running. Much less and I'd get your alternator check out.
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#8
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well, i just got a new battery, it is one of the optime gel packs. it was donated to me. so you are saying that i may have a ground problem or an alternator problem? easiest way to test alternator? any usual ground problem culprits?
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i am not reading with a stock gauge. and also, i have 3 autometer gauges and the electric fan pulling power as soon as i turn the ley to the on position. coild that be part of the problem?
#11
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally posted by RiceRocket
well, i just got a new battery, it is one of the optime gel packs. it was donated to me. so you are saying that i may have a ground problem or an alternator problem? easiest way to test alternator? any usual ground problem culprits?
well, i just got a new battery, it is one of the optime gel packs. it was donated to me. so you are saying that i may have a ground problem or an alternator problem? easiest way to test alternator? any usual ground problem culprits?
I would be checking the alt before anything else.
#12
I Raise Chickens
Optimally, it should be around 13.9-14.2 with the car running and no load on the electrical system. Anything under 13 and you need to look at the alternator circuit. The ECU is designed to run within a certain voltage, not enough and shes not happy.
#13
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Originally posted by RiceRocket
i am not reading with a stock gauge. and also, i have 3 autometer gauges and the electric fan pulling power as soon as i turn the ley to the on position. coild that be part of the problem?
i am not reading with a stock gauge. and also, i have 3 autometer gauges and the electric fan pulling power as soon as i turn the ley to the on position. coild that be part of the problem?
#14
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the gauges have lights and they are electricla gauges, so are they not pulling power? and as for the fan, i am going to rememdy that problem as soon as possible
#16
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ok, i will tell everyone once again....i don;t know the abbrevaitions for msot for most of the **** on my car. so waht the hell is SFA?
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