So I think the FC's are a damn sexy car. I recently got a nice promotion and raise @ work and as such I have a little more discretionary income. I am looking at buying an FC to be a daily driver. I have about $3500 to spend on it. What I want to know is what should I look for when looking in the paper and craigslist. Other than the obvious, good tire life, brake life, belts, hoses, etc.

What else should I look for?

Thanks.

 

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...80#post5131180
... and whatever you do, don't get an automatic transmission.

 

Aaron Cake has a how-to-buy an RX7 guide on his website.

 

Thanks I have no desire to have another automatic trans, I mean what's the point of having a sports car if it's an auto?

 

High-hp cars are actually better with an auto, but yes, most RX-7s are more fun with a manual. However, my warning was based on the high failure rate and insane repair costs of the RX-7 auto transmission, as well as the extremely painful process of converting an auto to a manual. Just say no.

 

www.aaroncake.net That is a good site with Info.Please read it..This Man(Aaron) know his stuff.

 

Regarding the part in bold, Why?

It seems like every time you show up, you have some bit of wisdom that I've never heard before, whether it has to do with blowers, or keeping a car running, or now transmissions. How did you come to know so much? What's your background with cars?

(and if that sounds disrespectful, it's not my intent. I'm just curious, and impressed.)

 

Because mis-shifting can cause a lot of damage in high-torque/horsepower engines, and an auto transmission (or other type of clutchless transmission) offers lower heat and less stress on the engine. Also, a high-output engine can make a car difficult to operate in city traffic with a manual transmission, and feathering burns out a high-performance clutch much faster than it does a standard clutch.

I just search teh internet or make it up.

Just kidding. I'm actually an aviation guy, but most of the knowledge transfers to cars. My background includes six years of college, over a million dollars worth of technical training, running an international fuel farm, managing international fuel contracts, performance testing of turbine engines, human factors engineering (ergonomics), and performance planning and engine management of turbine, normally aspirated piston, and supercharged piston engines. I have worked for NASA, NOAA, Jeppesen, Boeing, Embry-Riddle Aeronautical University, and other private businesses and government agencies. Most importantly, I have been a 2Gen RX-7 owner since 1988.

If you want to see some of my handy work, I was on the original team that designed and built the Aviation Challenge program for the Alabama Space & Rocket Center back in 1990.
http://www.spacecamp.com/category.php?cat=Aviation

 

Ahh mister evil aviator.....Not to contradict your wisdom or anything but auto trans do have clutches in them......well clutch packs but still clutch non the less.:

 

Most automatic transmissions use a torque converter to transmit power, not a clutch. The clutches in an automatic transmission are usually for controlling the shift mechanism, locking up the torque converter, or other secondary function. I am sure that you have noticed that cars with automatic transmissions tend to lack a clutch pedal despite the fact that there are clutches in the transmission. Yes, I am fully aware of automatic transmissions which use clutches for the transfer of power, but that is well beyond the scope of this thread.

 

So basically you're just saying you can't hold a job?

 

Things to look for -

Large bank account

Things to stay away from -

Cheap repairs

Regarding EA: One of the most knowledgable members on the forum. Wisdom comes with age for the people who crave it

 

LOL, no, I am saying that I have a lot of experience as a contractor. Once the special project contract is complete, I move to the next job. I don't think I can even remember all of my past jobs. My current projects include beta testing a telecommunications system and implementing a private wiki network.

... and yes, I am old, hehehe. I have been working 'real' jobs since the age of 12 (not including kidde jobs I worked at younger ages), so I would imagine that a 28-year resume would probably overwhelm the average folks on this forum who are half my age and still on their first job.

Well, I think this thread has been pretty well hijacked into a biography about me. Sorry about that.

One thing I forgot... Model choice.

Decide whether you want a turbo or non-turbo model prior to buying anything. It is not worth the time or money to convert a non-turbo car into a turbo car, not to mention the resale value is reduced on conversions. Basically, a turbo car is better for drag racing while a non-turbo car is better for autocrossing and road racing. Otherwise, it is just personal preference. There is no significant durability, gas mileage, or insurance cost difference between turbo/non-turbo, but the turbo model is more expensive if you want to add a lot of aftermarket bells and whistles. If you want to enter serious racing events, you can save about $10-20K by buying a car that somebody else modified vs. building your own from a stock RX-7.

You can see the various model differences in the 2Gen FAQ, but after 20 years there is no telling which parts have been swapped out vs. the catalog listing. I think it is better to just find one that you like rather than worrying about model trim. Beware the 10th Anniversary and GTUs sellers who think their car is worth a billion dollars because it is 'rare'.

 

...that is all.

 

As far as models go, the TurboII is the only turbo model available in the U.S.; If you want to deal with slightly more headaches, but with much higher potential for power, go that route.

As for the n/a models, there are a lot of small differences, main in weight vs. features. Personally, I drive a GXL, which is the heaviest of the non-turbo S4 models, but has the most features. My advice to you would be to avoid a base model; You sound interested in cars, and it'd be a shame to buy a base model, only to spend a long time chasing the parts that didn't come with those cars, like the 5-lug swap and 4-piston front brake calipers.

You sai dyou have $3500. That can buy you a pretty solid turbo project, or even a TII that just needs a little bit of work or maintenance. It could also buy you a very nice n/a with a clean title, nice paint, etc. That is, if you wait until you find a good deal for your money.

 

So admit it I was right! idk I thought I would be a smart *** and see what you would respond.....now if TTT would do the same I would love to see his response to what I post would be.

 

Buy a bone stock TII if you can.

 

What about this one?

 

jesus this thread title never gets..old

 

that's nice one.. series 5 too. no power steering and interior seems good. check the under body.

 

aside from that, you should know the 2nd gen has two series type. get acquainted i'll say. find the goods and bads of the two and take your pick! good luck

 

that car seems pretty stock which is good and in good shape too.

Turbo is the way to go though if you can afford it. Although it can be hard to find a stock turbo.