You didn't unplug the speedo (at the tranny or back of the cluster - accessible by snaking arm up on the right of the steering shaft)? I would drive the car with it unplugged for x miles when you get it running, just to fix the "error"! GL with the rest, and let us know how it goes.

 

good deal! so where was the car located exactly, you said new england? you should have just asked me or someone who lived close by to check it out for you lol. i'm sure someone would have gladly obliged.

 

I haven't driven it, but it did start and run tonight!!

Changed the plugs.
New battery.
Drained the gas tank (7.5 old gal) and put 5 fresh gallons with a can of seafoam in.
Replace the fuel filter.
Replaced the fuel pump

I only ran it for a couple minutes, the RPMs were holding around 2k with an occasional miss.... but I did wake it from its decade long slumber.

Problems so far:
Can not remove the oil filter, it's frozen in place.
Passenger power window isn't working.
Fuel gauge doesn't appear to be working.
The horn doesn't work.
Sometimes the power moon roof needs help "tilting" up before moving back.
And the mufflers and tires need replacing.

 

Awesim

 

I am also interested to how people get these off when they are stuck.. because i cant get mine off for ****.

 

wow, quite the find. well, best of luck with your project man

 

i have convient socket like things for a 3/8 rachet for oil filters. screw those "wrench" things.

 

nice, now some PICS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

I had a similar problem with the oil filter on my 86. I poked a hole in the top of it and poured atf in(dont know if it helped but i was desperate) coated the damn thing with penitrating oil and used a set of filter pliers for a diesel filter. After i shredded the F!@#$r to peices it started to come off. Funny thing though THE SEAL STAYED ON!!

 

another "method" is to put your screw driver through the side of it and push (or pull depending)

 

If you do use the screwdriver method, do it as high on the filter as possible because if it is too seized then you will just tear it apart and make it more of a bear to get it off. But this is a very useful way to go and easy.

 

I just had to get off my oil filter that seemed to be stuck on, i went to the parts store and bought a "strap" style wrench, used a big extension and breaker bar to get it loose.

To the OP, post up pics!

 

 

As for the year, it's technically a 1987 Turbo II, but it was sold in April of 1986 in South Vermont.

 

For future reference, you should not tow the vehicle with the drive wheels on the ground unless you remove the drive shaft. I don't know specifically about the TII tranny, but in some trannys rotating the output shaft without the input shaft rotating can cause some bearings to run un-lubed and dry with bad results. Short distances , 2-3 miles, would be ok, but New England to Florida is a bad idea.

Strap the back wheels to the dolly, then tie the steering wheel in place tightly with a bungee strap. Leave the key on so the steering column is unlocked.

 

PIC!! yyeah,,looks good and the body looks mint, i canot believe it started good for you do the ATF trick to help kinda clean it out.

Is the interior blue of grey or black?

our car looks like twins i found mine stored for a while hidden behind a barn as well. mine is an 1988 though.

lets us know when you start working on it again


hybrid

 

The body is essentially mint- no accidents. Only a dime size worth of rust behind the front wheel well.

The interior is red.... though faded.

I have every piece of paper, receipt, and document related to the car since it was bought in 1986.

 

The car is running and driving under it's own power.

1- GAUGES
Speedometer and tachometer are working well.
Oil Pressure is reading very high.
The rest of the gauges don't seem to be reading anything.

There's a slight misfire at idle.

Driver's power window was making a clunking sound as it rolled down. Might be the regulator, or the motor gear is stripping?

 

Wear in the gear or lack of lubrication.

Try cleaning the fuel sending unit.

Check the connection to the coolant temp sender under the oil pressure sender.

Go ahead and change the trans and rear end oil, the seals may be leaking in them from sitting.

How are the brakes?

 

From an inflation calculator:

"What cost $21500 in 1986 would cost $40915.42 in 2007." That's about right. I think people forget that Turbo II's were basically at corvette price level, unlike the Rx-8 which is in a different bracket.

 

MOARRRRRR PICSSSS!!!!! interior

 

Changed the fuel pump, sock, and fuel filter last night. I might have messed up the fuel gauge unit when I was in there.... Thankful, it's so easy to access. My other car required me to drop the exhaust and fuel tank in order to work on the fuel pump cage.

Oil pressure is still reading high, but at idle it's around 60 lbs. And after letting it sit in the driveway and idle for a while, it did appear to be lowering some.

And the brakes feel o.k.- though a fair amount of surface rust on the rotors. It's a friction material, I'll see if that resolves itself on the first real long test drive on the road.

 

I'll get them up next week. It looks pretty good- if you don't mind the faded colors. I have to go out of town tomorrow- thus my haste in just getting in running these past couple days.

I also need to get my orders into TireRack and RockAuto so that the parts are here to greet me when I return.

 

It's common for the level sender to get stuck, or become corroded, one of the two, cant remember, but its been mentioned before, thats probably what it is.

From experience, take the rotors off and have them turned or you will end up with deep grooves in them and fubared pads. This happened to me my first 7 sat for 7 years before i bought it. You will also probably have bad pitting.

 

You know its alright actually, you dont have to snap the pics of the interior. The car has basically been sitting for a decade so it should just be faded like you said. SO it should look damn near like a regular 7.