What should I brace myself for?
03-18-08, 10:56 AM
#52
Compita Racing
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: LBC
Posts: 1,123
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
we had to change the entire fuel tank on one of the t2 that we got that was sitting in the desert for about 4 years and the motor was gone, seized, intake ports were clogged with something. and there were the usual rats living in the ol rx7. so expect lots of crap everywhere.
03-18-08, 11:32 AM
#53
Brand New *****
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Sarasota, FL
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
..if it's real bad, I might just end up with a parts car or a donor car.
It's a distinct possibility. That's why I'd like to minimize the initial costs as much as possible. There's a huge unknown involved here. Not only have I not torn the car apart, I haven't even seen it in person. And the pictures have only been of the "shiny" side.
If it works out in my favor, it'll be brilliant.
If it's too far gone, it was still worth trying.
It's a distinct possibility. That's why I'd like to minimize the initial costs as much as possible. There's a huge unknown involved here. Not only have I not torn the car apart, I haven't even seen it in person. And the pictures have only been of the "shiny" side.
If it works out in my favor, it'll be brilliant.
If it's too far gone, it was still worth trying.
03-18-08, 01:24 PM
#55
Engine, Not Motor
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 29,789
Likes: 0
Received 108 Likes
on
91 Posts
The car will need a new engine due to sitting. The engine that's in there will be seized and a total write off if the car has not been stored correctly (as sitting in the backyard would indicate).
The car will need a complete brake system. Cylinder, calipers, lines, and all fittings to go along.
The clutch will be seized to the flywheel. New clutch master and slave required.
The fuel system will be junk. If the lines aren't leaking now, they will shortly. New fuel pump is almost a given, new lines front to back, all rubber lines replaced, probably a new fuel level sender, maybe a new tank.
Suspension bushings will be rotted, bearings junk, seals dried out.
The exhaust system will be rusted, any bolt on the bottom of the chassis will snap when you try to remove it.
Not trying to be pessimistic, just realistic. We're talking about a complete restoration here. It's impractical and unsafe to think the car can go back onto the road for $1500 after sitting improperly for 15 years.
03-18-08, 04:05 PM
#56
Rotary enthusiast
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 664
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It's a casual agreement deal right now, but I'm expecting it to be less than $500.
I figured that I could have it back on the road for under $1500 after parts and shipping.
It's a gamble. I only have a handful of pictures. But it's through family that I learned of the car, so I am absolutely confident of the history.
I figured that I could have it back on the road for under $1500 after parts and shipping.
It's a gamble. I only have a handful of pictures. But it's through family that I learned of the car, so I am absolutely confident of the history.
03-18-08, 04:12 PM
#57
Brand New *****
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Sarasota, FL
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
But that's why I'm trying to find the most cost effective means of transporting it. I really don't have any desire in spending $1,000 and then having them drop off a giant Japanese boat anchor in front of my house...
I might be able to see it in person right after Easter. If I get up there, and it passes the visual inspection, I'll just tow it back. But it'll have to remain undisturbed for another couple weeks.
03-18-08, 04:56 PM
#59
hey good luck with a new project is alway exciting but take you time asses what neds to be done and do it it stages if it is as clean as described.
my car runs, not good yet (i just got my T2 recently myself) but it does and i am doing some minor work on it and i am approaching $1500 just in new bushings, weather stripping,switches, brakes..aaron Cake is on point as to what needs to be done if it has been siting for that long but you can source parts on this forum so you will save money & ebay it has been my friend lately.
Hybrid
my car runs, not good yet (i just got my T2 recently myself) but it does and i am doing some minor work on it and i am approaching $1500 just in new bushings, weather stripping,switches, brakes..aaron Cake is on point as to what needs to be done if it has been siting for that long but you can source parts on this forum so you will save money & ebay it has been my friend lately.
Hybrid
03-18-08, 06:30 PM
#62
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Chris' Dreams
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
03-18-08, 08:12 PM
#63
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Chris' Dreams
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
After reading the first 50 pages, I'd be concerned about:
*Rust on underside (moderate concern)
*Seals in poor condition-If the engine's been sitting for that long, the seals haven't been lubricated in a long time. I would guess on the engine being a VERY good core, but needing new seals. I would NOT drive the car home in its current state, as the engine is likely a time bomb. Driving it in such a condition is likely to result in a blown apex seal due to improper lubrication. I would plan on a rebuild, albeit a relatively simple one, upon having the car shipped back to your place. Look at it this way: If you try to drive it back and **** up the engine, you're looking at a $3500 rebuild because you need to find new rotor housings, etc. However, in its current state, I believe Rotary Resurrection of this forum could rebuild your engine for not much over $1000. By driving it home, you'd take a $2500 bet. I wouldn't mess with that. DON'T DRIVE THE CAR HOME.
*PFSantos elaborates on what you should do quite well in post #50 here.
Other random points:
*car is probably an 87 that was manufactured in 86, but was an 87 model year.
*you can not make that car safe to drive with only one day of repairs. I HATE to say this, but you'll need to bank on shipping it down to Florida.
*Rust on underside (moderate concern)
*Seals in poor condition-If the engine's been sitting for that long, the seals haven't been lubricated in a long time. I would guess on the engine being a VERY good core, but needing new seals. I would NOT drive the car home in its current state, as the engine is likely a time bomb. Driving it in such a condition is likely to result in a blown apex seal due to improper lubrication. I would plan on a rebuild, albeit a relatively simple one, upon having the car shipped back to your place. Look at it this way: If you try to drive it back and **** up the engine, you're looking at a $3500 rebuild because you need to find new rotor housings, etc. However, in its current state, I believe Rotary Resurrection of this forum could rebuild your engine for not much over $1000. By driving it home, you'd take a $2500 bet. I wouldn't mess with that. DON'T DRIVE THE CAR HOME.
*PFSantos elaborates on what you should do quite well in post #50 here.
Other random points:
*car is probably an 87 that was manufactured in 86, but was an 87 model year.
*you can not make that car safe to drive with only one day of repairs. I HATE to say this, but you'll need to bank on shipping it down to Florida.
03-18-08, 08:14 PM
#64
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Chris' Dreams
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
BTW, I just made my first post in here because Ked63Madison is stupid.
Aaron Cake makes many good points. Listen to him.
It sounds like you could get the car for $500 for the car + 800 shipping. 1300 total. Not bad for a solid body (if it is), and what is probably a very usable core engine and transmission.
Aaron Cake makes many good points. Listen to him.
It sounds like you could get the car for $500 for the car + 800 shipping. 1300 total. Not bad for a solid body (if it is), and what is probably a very usable core engine and transmission.
03-18-08, 08:27 PM
#65
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Chris' Dreams
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Okay, here's the deal. I'd buy the car if the underside is basically clean with regards to rust. Trying to be slightly conservative in estimations, you'd be looking at:
$1300 for the car
$2000 into the engine, to be safe
$500 for a turbo rebuild
$500 for vacuum lines, brake pads, hoses, etc.
$1000 if/when you want a paint job.
Oh, hell. I can't even think of all it needs. You're gonna be into this car for upwards of $5k, to be honest with you. I think it's worth that, but you may not. that's your choice.
$1300 for the car
$2000 into the engine, to be safe
$500 for a turbo rebuild
$500 for vacuum lines, brake pads, hoses, etc.
$1000 if/when you want a paint job.
Oh, hell. I can't even think of all it needs. You're gonna be into this car for upwards of $5k, to be honest with you. I think it's worth that, but you may not. that's your choice.
03-19-08, 04:21 PM
#66
Full Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: SANFRAN
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I bought an 87 MR2 with 32k. IT had been in a barn for 15+ years. The car was full of rat ****. It smelled awful. The rats had chewed some wiring all around the car. I had to take the car apart completely inc int. The motor was in great shape after I got it running. I had to take out the carpet and clean A LOT. It took about 3 months of work. BUT in the end you could have parked the car in a showroom. I bought if for my lil sis and she put 45k on it in a year
. To bad it was an auto.
Buy it expecting to have to do A LOT. That way you won't be disappointed!
. To bad it was an auto. Buy it expecting to have to do A LOT. That way you won't be disappointed!
03-19-08, 04:43 PM
#67
I am back
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Highland, IL near St. Louis
Posts: 829
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
03-19-08, 04:56 PM
#68
Full Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Elmira, Ny
Posts: 227
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Never.
The car will need a new engine due to sitting. The engine that's in there will be seized and a total write off if the car has not been stored correctly (as sitting in the backyard would indicate).
The car will need a complete brake system. Cylinder, calipers, lines, and all fittings to go along.
The clutch will be seized to the flywheel. New clutch master and slave required.
The fuel system will be junk. If the lines aren't leaking now, they will shortly. New fuel pump is almost a given, new lines front to back, all rubber lines replaced, probably a new fuel level sender, maybe a new tank.
Suspension bushings will be rotted, bearings junk, seals dried out.
The exhaust system will be rusted, any bolt on the bottom of the chassis will snap when you try to remove it.
Not trying to be pessimistic, just realistic. We're talking about a complete restoration here. It's impractical and unsafe to think the car can go back onto the road for $1500 after sitting improperly for 15 years.
The car will need a new engine due to sitting. The engine that's in there will be seized and a total write off if the car has not been stored correctly (as sitting in the backyard would indicate).
The car will need a complete brake system. Cylinder, calipers, lines, and all fittings to go along.
The clutch will be seized to the flywheel. New clutch master and slave required.
The fuel system will be junk. If the lines aren't leaking now, they will shortly. New fuel pump is almost a given, new lines front to back, all rubber lines replaced, probably a new fuel level sender, maybe a new tank.
Suspension bushings will be rotted, bearings junk, seals dried out.
The exhaust system will be rusted, any bolt on the bottom of the chassis will snap when you try to remove it.
Not trying to be pessimistic, just realistic. We're talking about a complete restoration here. It's impractical and unsafe to think the car can go back onto the road for $1500 after sitting improperly for 15 years.
03-31-08, 11:47 PM
#72
A lot is going to hang on where it was parked (ie., on grass, vs. on gravel or pavement, a wet vs a dry location); it's having been run occasionally is good - do you know if it will start and idle now? If it does, that's half the battle, but expect brakes to be shot, the fuel system to need a thorough going over, etc, as others have already said. Hope it works out for you.
04-07-08, 02:01 AM
#73
Brand New *****
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Sarasota, FL
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Got it- picked it up while on a trip to New York, so it was only a couple extra hours out of my way.
Just returned home this morning, so I haven't been able to dig into it. With that said-
The body is basically perfect. No rust under the car. Even the fuel tank drain plug is completely corrosion free. The battery is dead, so I haven't tested the electrics yet. But all the door/hood seals are still in excellent conditions. Even the rear hatch popped and stayed open when I pulled the the control from the front seat. All the wheels spin freely and the brakes worked as well, minus a bit of lit surface rust on the rotors and caliper.
The interior and engine remained completely animal and bug free.
The engine turns and is void of any rust.
I also have every bit of paper work on the vehicle since the purchase of the vehicle, including the original bill of sales ($21,500) and the "Rusty Jones" Warranty paperwork and the MAZDA RX-7 brochure.
The only problems SO FAR:
The sun caused some interior pieces to fade.
The drivers side mirror housing is cracked.
The mufflers need to be replaced.
I need to replace the side molding.
It needs a fresh paint job.
Need to replace the original tires.
Regarding the year- the car was purchased in May of 1986 but sold as an '87 vehicle. And as of today, because of the extended towing, the car has just hit 40,000 miles.
Just returned home this morning, so I haven't been able to dig into it. With that said-
The body is basically perfect. No rust under the car. Even the fuel tank drain plug is completely corrosion free. The battery is dead, so I haven't tested the electrics yet. But all the door/hood seals are still in excellent conditions. Even the rear hatch popped and stayed open when I pulled the the control from the front seat. All the wheels spin freely and the brakes worked as well, minus a bit of lit surface rust on the rotors and caliper.
The interior and engine remained completely animal and bug free.
The engine turns and is void of any rust.
I also have every bit of paper work on the vehicle since the purchase of the vehicle, including the original bill of sales ($21,500) and the "Rusty Jones" Warranty paperwork and the MAZDA RX-7 brochure.
The only problems SO FAR:
The sun caused some interior pieces to fade.
The drivers side mirror housing is cracked.
The mufflers need to be replaced.
I need to replace the side molding.
It needs a fresh paint job.
Need to replace the original tires.
Regarding the year- the car was purchased in May of 1986 but sold as an '87 vehicle. And as of today, because of the extended towing, the car has just hit 40,000 miles.
04-07-08, 02:29 AM
#74
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have bought three rx7. Two of them had set for one year. They both had seized motors. I unseized them with the atf trick and got one of them to run with alittle work. another one busted a seal. After 15 years i would assume it is probably dead and is going to be alot of work to get runnig again, but dont get me wrong it is still a good buy. If you had to put a new engine in it you could probably get about what you paid into it. So i say good luck and go for it.
04-07-08, 09:45 AM
#75
good for you bro, nice find again, keep us updated and et some pics and dig into it some more, looks like you found a gem when many thought it was a peice of glass
hybrid
hybrid
Got it- picked it up while on a trip to New York, so it was only a couple extra hours out of my way.
Just returned home this morning, so I haven't been able to dig into it. With that said-
The body is basically perfect. No rust under the car. Even the fuel tank drain plug is completely corrosion free. The battery is dead, so I haven't tested the electrics yet. But all the door/hood seals are still in excellent conditions. Even the rear hatch popped and stayed open when I pulled the the control from the front seat. All the wheels spin freely and the brakes worked as well, minus a bit of lit surface rust on the rotors and caliper.
The interior and engine remained completely animal and bug free.
The engine turns and is void of any rust.
I also have every bit of paper work on the vehicle since the purchase of the vehicle, including the original bill of sales ($21,500) and the "Rusty Jones" Warranty paperwork and the MAZDA RX-7 brochure.
The only problems SO FAR:
The sun caused some interior pieces to fade.
The drivers side mirror housing is cracked.
The mufflers need to be replaced.
I need to replace the side molding.
It needs a fresh paint job.
Need to replace the original tires.
Regarding the year- the car was purchased in May of 1986 but sold as an '87 vehicle. And as of today, because of the extended towing, the car has just hit 40,000 miles.
Just returned home this morning, so I haven't been able to dig into it. With that said-
The body is basically perfect. No rust under the car. Even the fuel tank drain plug is completely corrosion free. The battery is dead, so I haven't tested the electrics yet. But all the door/hood seals are still in excellent conditions. Even the rear hatch popped and stayed open when I pulled the the control from the front seat. All the wheels spin freely and the brakes worked as well, minus a bit of lit surface rust on the rotors and caliper.
The interior and engine remained completely animal and bug free.
The engine turns and is void of any rust.
I also have every bit of paper work on the vehicle since the purchase of the vehicle, including the original bill of sales ($21,500) and the "Rusty Jones" Warranty paperwork and the MAZDA RX-7 brochure.
The only problems SO FAR:
The sun caused some interior pieces to fade.
The drivers side mirror housing is cracked.
The mufflers need to be replaced.
I need to replace the side molding.
It needs a fresh paint job.
Need to replace the original tires.
Regarding the year- the car was purchased in May of 1986 but sold as an '87 vehicle. And as of today, because of the extended towing, the car has just hit 40,000 miles.