Well I bought a Fc with a blown motor and I finally got another motor to put in it. I'm just wondering some good things to go ahead and change or replace with upgraded parts? I'm new to turbo rotaries but owned a few FC N/A's.


I've serched and I what I have found so far that what I think I should change.

1. Getting rid of the fuel pulsation damper and adding a FPR with dual inlets and setting up the fuel rails so each rail will get there own fuel line from a y adapter.

2. Putting in a Koyo with a custom shrould and a good e-fan.

3. Walboro 255 HP.

4. Mataneince stuff like new water pump, radiator hoses, plugs, wires, and some new omp lines.

Let me know if there is anything else that I can do to help keep this motor alive so I can enjoy the car.


Thanks for the space and replies,

Jon Rice

 

all coolant hoses, new clutch, new pilot bearing, new upgraded motor mounts, aluminum flywheel. on my fc vert I also had to replace both oil cooler lines.

 

If you really want to. But a new PD and new rubber line with a stock FPR will go a long way.

If your old rad and fan are no good, then go ahead.

If you have some way to control fuel, then go ahead. The aftermarket FPR will help but you will likely find the car running rich.

That's the important stuff. All new vacuum lines, engine mounts, belts, etc. etc. Do a full 60K tune up as indicated in the Factory Service Manual.

 

It's a good time to go RTek 1.7 with 720's. That'll help the Walbro.

I am also switching over to a manual steering rack, but that's preference over nessecity.

Like Aaron said keep the fan unless it's toast.

 

Thanks for the replies everyone. I bought a parts car that is coming with the koyo, walboro, and a fmic even though I didnt list the fmic cause I dont know if I want to install it as soon as I get it running. I already have a aeromotive fpr so I thought that I would go ahead and do that since the car thats its on right now is down waiting on some really exspensive parts dang DSMs lol.

Should I go ahead and put the fmic on? The motor thats going into the car has a s5 turbo and it will have a full exhaust. I'm probably going to have trouble controlling boost or fuel cut? I dont really want to run over 10-12psi does this sound save with what little amout of mods that I have?

The reason I was going to go ahead and change the fuel system up was I have the afpr and I can get ss line and fittings rather cheap from a speed shop close to where I live.

I will go ahead and use the stock fan and shroud since you all think it will ok since that will save me alittle time and money getting it back together.

Could anyone tell me where to get some upgraded oil cooler lines or should I use ss line on them aswell.
Sorry for all the questions guy I just dont want the car to be back down again cause of something I missed of should have done while I had the chance when the motor was out.

Thanks for all the help,

Jon Rice

 

Damn! Good point.
A manual steering rack would kick *** and be easy to install!

Fuel:
New filter
Cleaned and tested injectors
new fuel line
///Then the optional stuff//
If you go With a Walbro an adjustable FPR would be recommended because it will override the stock FPR. Going with a full parallel fuel system isn't needed unless you plan on making a huge HP car.
My own system is a S5 lower fuel rail(internal PD so it it MUCH less prone to leaking externally) Then a S4 secondary rail with a SS return line going to Aeromotive FPR. Then regular fuell line returning to the stock location.

Parts:
REBUILD THE TURBO! Why put a brand new engine in there and leave a failing/aging turbo which could potentially destroy your motor?
Port the wastegate atr this time as well.

Koyo. Great upgrade. The stock fan and shroud though are almost impossible to beat. You may end up finding cooling problems in the summer and I'll bet it will be the efan or custom shroud causing it.

Waterpump, Dual Alt pulley if removing the airpump and cat

OMP......
Here is where we're split. I personally LOVE premix. I think the OMP system is a joke.
While the engine is out removing the OMP lines and blocking it off will free up a lot of space and will leave less things to brake in the end.
People complain about how premixing is hard... What's so hard about grabbing a bottl and pouring in 10ounces before you fill up your tank?! It only takes me one extra minute at the pump and I know my engine is getting perfect lube.
Another plus is that you can now run synthetic without any worry.

Clutch:
You will LOVE yourself 6 mothns from now when you don't have to pull the tranny out and replace a clutch! Compare the time frame. Engine out of car clutch install.
Time is 5 minutes.
Time in car..... couple hours and a lot of swearing as you try to get the ******* tranny back in.

Flywheel:
At a minimum. resurface it. If you have the cash then go with a lightened one. Not too light though.

Misc stuff.
Go through your engine harness and make sure all connections are good and that you get continuity through the wires. You don't want a bad wire giving you grief on start up day.
An Rtek 1.5 woudl be a good upgrade as well. 1.7 if you want to go for more boost.

 

Oil cooler lines woudl be nice but generally the stock ones last a long time.

Oh and a SS clutch line will be good

10psi is the safe limit for stock injectors. If you want to go to 12psi daily then 720 secondaries and the Rtek 1.7 is your choice.

 

Thanks for all the info guys!! Actually I didnt think I would get this kind of response since I'm a newb and my question is rather large. Looks like I have alot more diff ways that I can go now since I am getting some good info. I will be changing the clutch out with a new unit along with new bearing. I'm going to have to think bout the omp thing cause I'm still a newb to rotaries and I want to keep it as simple as possible for right now. I would deff throw in a manual rack if I could find one in my area.

Also you guys think it would be a good time to put some block off plates on the motor, take off the air pump, and maybe put a fd altenator on? Its not goin to have a large stereo or anything in it just a decent cd player.


Jon Rice

 

Yeah DigiTech7, my fuel filter is shot, needing to replace that right now!

VTECTHIS, do cars in the junk yards rust out there? If not, theres a good place to look for the steering rack. Also, there are lots of guys selling them on here. Shipping isn't TOO bad, but maybe you could get someone to drop the price a little to help with shipping.

FD alt is a good route, but be careful, I've heard of people selling em on Ebay as FD duals when they arent. These other pulleys seem to cause belts to snap.

Stereo!!??!! Damn son, just listen to that kitty purrrr, thats all the music you need!
Good luck on the build.

 

Do a search on Premixing and decide for yourself. I hesitated at first too but now I will never go back. You could do what I did at first. Disconnect the Rod connected to the throttle body. That way the OMP still injects but at a lower rate and not progressive. Then premix at the same time. That way you have a redundancy. Then you can get a feel for it and see if you want to go full premix.
I woudl recommend doing the removal with the engine out fo the car though. IT's seriously a 5 minute job to block off outside. Inside will suck because you'll have to work around stuff lie the fan shroud,etc..

Manual racks kick *** once you get deeper into tuning. No powersteering rack makes front mount intercoolers easy to install.


If you don't have to pass emissions then ditch all of that. All those items clutter up the engine bay and add stress to the motor.
Airpump adds strain on the pulley system while the car and stock exhaust limits the engines ability to breath.

FD alternators kick *** if you've got a sub. or good stereo system