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what is this (rear lower suspension)?

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Old 02-16-10, 06:07 PM
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what is this (rear lower suspension)?

so after not driving my car for about two months due to registration, i went for a drive the other day. i noticed that the rear end sways almost uncontrollably back and forth when i ... 1) accelerate hard 2) am going uphill 3) around moderate corners. so i took it to a shop and they put it up on the rack. he showed me that a bolt was missing from my suspension. he didnt know where to find it and neither does anywhere else. i've tried mazdatrix, mazdaspeed, mazda, napa, kragen, autozone and many others with no luck. i posted photos of the left side (which is missing a bolt) and another of the complete assembly from the right side. it looks like whats missing is a bolt, a soft rubber boot and who knows what else. there is a flat side to the shaft it attaches to. please help. i have the cash to buy the parts and no idea what this part is or where to find it.
Attached Thumbnails what is this (rear lower suspension)?-img_2297.jpg   what is this (rear lower suspension)?-img_2298.jpg   what is this (rear lower suspension)?-img_2299.jpg   what is this (rear lower suspension)?-img_2300.jpg  
Old 02-16-10, 06:32 PM
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Your pic/problem is of the DTSS bushing. The replacement bushing is not available from the factory unless you purchase the whole hub but rather you could purchase the aftermarket replacement component from Mazdatrix. They come in a pair.

http://mazdatrix.com/faq/rrsteer.htm
Old 02-16-10, 06:38 PM
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He'll still need the rest of the hardware, which he should be able to get cheap from a scrap yard. They'll need to be torqued down fairly tight. I think Mazdatrix also has some instructions that should give a torque spec.

edit: looked at the link, I guess they don't, but the FSM might.
Old 02-16-10, 08:50 PM
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Question i dont want to eliminate "rear steer"

so i uploaded some photos with notes to hopefully make things easier. are you sure that is DTSS "rear steer"? the guy at the shop told me it could be a camber bolt. i also noticed one side of the shaft protruding from the open hole has a flat side on it. so, if it is indeed a DTSS bolt, should i get toe eliminator bushings while im in there or are they not worth the departure from OEM? also, i was curious if i can just get this bolt in a hardened version at the hardware store and what the measurements and other specs are? i suppose for that i could just take the other bolt out of the right side and compare. i just dont have my own lift and its kind of hard to get to without one.
Attached Thumbnails what is this (rear lower suspension)?-leftside.jpg   what is this (rear lower suspension)?-right-side.jpg   what is this (rear lower suspension)?-left-side-far.jpg   what is this (rear lower suspension)?-right-side-far.jpg  
Old 02-16-10, 09:04 PM
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If you look at the link I provided you'll see in the first pic in that link where they describe to the right of the pic what they are referring to and the DTSS is "on an angle" just like yours. In the Mazdatrix link there are only two bushings in the first pic and only one is on an angle in addition to matching up with the rest of the description. It is "definitely" the DTSS bushing. I erred in stating previously that you need the new bushings but you actually only need the bolt, rubber doughnut and the funky looking washer. It appears from your pic that the washer and doughnut are still intact on the top. You could either source these from a junk yard or from the parts for sale section located on this site though someone might not be willing to sell just what you need nor sell just one hub. Since you probably don't need the bushing itself you might also be able to get what you need from Mazda itself. Give me a moment and I'll provide you with a parts catalog link so you could look up the part numbers.

Edit: http://www.mazdaspeeddevelopment.com...s/rx7pubs.html
Old 02-16-10, 09:24 PM
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There are no camber bolts, but it does appear your DTSS bolt fell out. You're lucky not to have had an accident. Torque spec is ~90lb/ft (it's a range either side of that, I remember what I did mine to, not the range). The DTSS bushing, as was pointed out before, are only available as part of a complete hub assembly - about $700, iirc. Don't know about the bolt, but you would need to have the correct shank and grip length. Shouldn't be hard to get what you need off a salvage car, along with the bolt, although the odds are good that any bushings you find on such will be shot - as your own may be. If you need the bushing, then you'll have to take the hub off the salvage car, press out the bushing, press it back in to your hub - or it might be easier to just swap the whole hub (it's pretty easy, and no alignment is required after), as long as the bearings are good.

Or, you could just get some DTSS eliminator bushings. If you're concerned the car will feel less agile without DTSS - have your front alignment adjusted to max out the negative camber (if you're lucky you'll get it to zero, instead of the factory spec +.5), max castor, and zero toe, which will do as much to make your car feel agile and responsive as the DTSS does/did.
Old 02-16-10, 09:43 PM
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Look at the link below. Focus on the lower right hand part of page that will come up and then look at item #15,16 and 17. Does this look familiar?

http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icata...l.aspx?Page=70
Old 02-16-10, 09:54 PM
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All you need are DTSS eliminator bushings and the bolt. That will fix the problem. The bushing with out the bolt is destroyed, that is why the inner tube is coming out. You will have to press out the OEM DTSS bushing and press the new solid bushings in.

MMR has the bushings for $40 shipped

http://www.mmr-direct.com/

Satch is correct on the hardware you will need.
Old 02-16-10, 10:52 PM
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If you'd like exact replacement of that part I may be able to get that from where I work. If so send a pm and I can shoot you a number to the place.
Old 02-16-10, 10:52 PM
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yes that does look right. a little warped maybe?
Old 02-16-10, 11:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Rx-7heaven
If you'd like exact replacement of that part I may be able to get that from where I work. If so send a pm and I can shoot you a number to the place.
Good luck with that..they want you to buy the whole Hub assembly..(about 250 per side)..that is why I opted for DTSS elinimator Bushings.
Old 02-16-10, 11:17 PM
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Talking

Originally Posted by misterstyx69
Good luck with that..they want you to buy the whole Hub assembly..(about 250 per side)..that is why I opted for DTSS elinimator Bushings.
thanks for all the great replies. the real problem is finding the bolt/doughnut/washer trio. i'm sure ill buy a set of dtss eliminator bushings instead of spending a fortune on trying to locate hard to find parts in the future. i just hope i dont need to change my whole suspension because dtss elimination may throw everything out of whack when im pitching my car around every turn.

i'd love to hear any more suggestions people may have. this forum is great.
Old 02-17-10, 12:29 AM
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My suggestion.

1. Find someone who's parting out an fc in the classifieds (there are MANY).

2. Ask for said bolt

3. Take your hubs to the machine shop and have your dtss system pressed out for $15-30 bucks. I paid $15. You can also torch the guts out of the bushing and cut the sleeve with a hacksaw. Just run the blade through the sleeve, attach the blade to the saw and hack away but be careful not to cut into the cast iron hub

4. Buy dtss elims for $45-50 and install.

It makes the rear end of the car feel crisp in comparison. Alot of people say they "dont notice" and lot say it makes a "big difference". I have elims in my car and can say it was one of the best investments i've made.
Old 02-17-10, 12:46 AM
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if you where close to me, id give you the bolt since i have a spare subframe.
Old 02-17-10, 02:52 AM
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Originally Posted by telephoto
thanks for all the great replies. the real problem is finding the bolt/doughnut/washer trio. i'm sure ill buy a set of dtss eliminator bushings instead of spending a fortune on trying to locate hard to find parts in the future. i just hope i dont need to change my whole suspension because dtss elimination may throw everything out of whack when im pitching my car around every turn.

i'd love to hear any more suggestions people may have. this forum is great.
The car is better WITHOUT DTSS. It handles more crisply and predictively without it. Don't even waste the time trying to replace it, just put in the eliminators. My DTSS bushings were good and the car always feld weird when I pushed it hard on the track. It is much better now.
Old 02-17-10, 02:02 PM
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So I ordered the bolt, washer & 2 rubber housings from black dragon auto. Thanks for the link satch! I am going to go for the dtss elims as well. I will probably order those today too. Should be here by Monday. I will post my feedback on the dtss elims. I have had 3 rx-7s and I'm sure I'll notice the difference when I skirt my first corner. Thanks everybody!
Old 02-18-10, 01:14 AM
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Sometimes that bolt is a b*tch to take out. Id spray alot of pb blast or any other penetrating lube on to it before taking it off. Let it soak in then try taking it off. Took me like an hr or 2 to take one of the bolts off.
Old 02-24-10, 06:54 PM
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yeah i've read everywhere that you need a press to remove the old bushing AND install the new one. just received the dtss elims today from racing beat. so now im just waiting on the 2x bolts, 2x washers and 4x rubber spacers. i wish i had the tools =( sadface
Old 02-24-10, 07:49 PM
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dont really need a press.

I used old sockets and long bolts to press them out.
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