2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

What is the proper rebuild breakin period?

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Old Sep 14, 2006 | 10:13 PM
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What is the proper rebuild breakin period?

Rebuild with used housings, plates and all new seals, what would the proper breakin period be?

500 miles under 4krpm?
1000 miles under 5krpm?


Thanks
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Old Sep 14, 2006 | 10:50 PM
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That's a good question and I think you'll get a slightly different answer for each person you ask.

I was told...
500 miles under 4000 rpm then oil change
500-2000 miles under 5000 rpm then oil change
drive like normal (no extra long boost runs) till 3000 then oil change
then drive it like you stole it
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Old Sep 14, 2006 | 11:01 PM
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what apex seals are you using?
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Old Sep 14, 2006 | 11:24 PM
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2 pc, I think either 2mm or 3mm. From either Rotary Aviation or Atkins, I seriously can't remember right now.
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Old Sep 14, 2006 | 11:45 PM
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http://fc3spro.com/TECH/FAQ/breakin.html


-Ted
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Old Sep 15, 2006 | 12:18 AM
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Well that kill's my whole let's take it on the highway plan...im just going to have to suck it up and drive like a grandma for awhile...temptation is hard though!
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Old Sep 15, 2006 | 12:46 AM
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I would go by what your mechanic reccomends (if you got a mechanic to do it) that way you have more of a chance of him giving you warranty. Give him a call and ask. I know babying them used to be the way but now some ppl think you have to drive it hard once or twice after having it rebuilt. So i would just ask whoever did the rebuild what they reccomend
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Old Sep 15, 2006 | 12:51 AM
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Becareful on break in times. When I rebuilt my second motor three years ago, I put 1500 miles on it(highway and city). Figured it was enough and went out and gave it some boost on the highway.......third gear.....5500rpm.....POP! Rear apex seal no likey. This was a factory S4 13bt.

Take your time and be patient, it is worth the wait. I say go with Sharingon 19's advice.
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Old Sep 15, 2006 | 01:31 AM
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Originally Posted by rotorman85
Well that kill's my whole let's take it on the highway plan...
You can, but it's a little trickier.
You need to keep shifting gears just to get the RPM's to change enough.
You should be able to run in 4th and 5th gears on the freeway - you just need to change gears every couple of minutes.


-Ted
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Old Sep 15, 2006 | 01:52 AM
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oops I guess I messed up then. I drove back to college (270 miles) and and I was between 3000 and 3500 for pretty much the whole time. I guess it's a good thing the cruise control didn't work so I was changing rpms (albiet slightly) every few seconds. I also may have gotten into slight boost when a semi tried to merge on top of me I hope I haven't significantly damaged my new engine...

Why exactly are constant RPM's bad for a new engine?
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Old Sep 15, 2006 | 01:58 AM
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Yeah, I drove back the 200 or so miles from the shop. Luckily it was in the hill country so I wasn't going too much of a constant speed. I really wich the engine builder would have mentioned the no constant rev thing.
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Old Sep 15, 2006 | 02:19 AM
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Yes, but WHY are constant RPM's bad for a new engine?
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Old Sep 15, 2006 | 02:29 AM
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so, going up beyond 3000 rpm is bad for a freshly rebuilt engine? so, i cant drive my car on the freeway from the shop? darn, i gotta take the freeway on the way home, its at least 40 miles from the shop.
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Old Sep 15, 2006 | 03:02 AM
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You'll be fine at 3k, I spent 4 hours between 3 and 3.5 to get back to school. I take it to almost 4k when driving around town (when I'm not trying to save gas

I still wish someone would tell me why constant rpm's are bad for a new engine, my thirst for knowlege must be quenched!
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Old Sep 15, 2006 | 03:25 AM
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Constant RPM's only loads the engine one way.
Changing the RPM's changes the loads on all the seals, allowing them to break in faster and better.

Going into slight boost isn't going to hurt anything.
Just *try* to keep the engine out of boost initially...


-Ted
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Old Sep 15, 2006 | 03:26 AM
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Also, if you're going to attempt to do the break-in on the freeway, you can always clutch-in and let the revs drop to idle speeds, then gentle engage the clutch back in to pick up the RPM's.


-Ted
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Old Sep 15, 2006 | 03:47 AM
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It's good to hear that a little boost won't kill me :-) My main problem w/ the whole "vary the rpm's" thing was that I've already made the trip and I never heard anything about it until now.

"gently engage" is not a phrase my clutch is familiar with lol! At highway speeds it's not to much of a problem but around town it's a bear. The PO said it was some kind of bronze racing clutch and my mechanic said it's got a racing beat pressure plate. This thing has absolutely NO travel I'm hoping I can make some adjustments under teh dash but if not I guess I'll have to deal w/ it
.
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Old Sep 15, 2006 | 04:56 AM
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Originally Posted by sharingan 19
You'll be fine at 3k, I spent 4 hours between 3 and 3.5 to get back to school. I take it to almost 4k when driving around town (when I'm not trying to save gas

I still wish someone would tell me why constant rpm's are bad for a new engine, my thirst for knowlege must be quenched!

why dont u use sharingan and find out??

what do u mean by constant rpm?? rpm jumps up and down? rpm is too high on start up? rpm higher than it should be? naruto sux?
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Old Sep 15, 2006 | 08:12 AM
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constant rpm = holding speed, constant velocity, setting the cruise.........what most people are incapable of on the highway.
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