I have searched and looked at pictures and come up with differing information on this. I was wondering what position the 5/6th port actuator rods should pointing when closed and open.

I have the left rod poiting to the 9 o'clock to be pulled down by the actuator to the 6 o'clock position. The right rod is pointing to the 3 o'clock position to be pulled down to the 6 o'clock position. Does this sounds right?

 

yea that sounds right. To activate them, the rod is pushed downwards.

 

Thanks dude! That's what I wanted to verify.

 

Or you could just line up the "fat" part of the transverse rod on the port sleeve with the small indentation mark on the housing...That would be closed positions, BTW...

 

YOU guys have missed some critical information. s4 and s5 cars are OPPOSITE one another. s4 cars, at rest, ports closed, have actuator arms extended, port arms at 9 and 3 oclock. To open, they PULL in downward, ports open at 6 oclock.

for s5 cars, its backwards. At rest, ports closed, the actuator arms are retracted in, and they PUSH out/up to open.

Both are actuated by 2-5psi air pressure.

 

For once the 7club club search pulls through! I learned something new today.



Question: If someone used say....a S4 rear port actuator arm on a S5 engine would it cause the engine to detonate after 5k miles? So the rear aux port is open when it should be closed and closed when it should be open. The engine made NO power like this...

 

Shouldn't make it detonate, you just wont have any power as you stated.

Detonation is either a fuel or timing issue. Have fun diagnosing those as the 13b is over engineered electronically.

 

The S4 actuator won't physically work with the S5 components. I would start by making sure no one tried to put some super jdm timing advance on the crank angle sensor.

 

What I was talking about swapping was the actuator rod. It's the piece that is about the size of a pencil and goes through the LIM and makes the sleeve turn in the iron. They are interchangeable but they make the sleeve turn in different ways.

 

You would just end up with both reduced bottom end and top end power, since the one aux. port would be open/closed at the wrong times. No reason for detonation though. You just get to be a member of the "lets just wire them open" club AND the "my ports don't work" club. It's twice as cool.

 

This is genius. Who's first to try the mod?

 

I'm double cool! To put the coolness in perspective: my '84 FB with it's glorious 99.9hp was faster and got better mpg.

It all started when I tried to remove the rear actuator rod from the LIM and it broke off. I saw an S4 in the the parts yard and didn't think twice about using the arm on my S5. Everything looked the same and bolted up. Mazda engineers and their tricks...