I'm rerouting a few things to fit my new cone intake, and was looking at my secondary ports to see what makes them tick. There's no vacuum lines going into them, but there does seem to be some sort of nipple on the bottom of each.

I'm pretty sure they work, at least they seemed to last time I did the grease trick.

I was also looking at my ACv, which I just repaired the wire for.

In the FSM it has two connectors shown:


On mine, it has only one, and a bolt where the second one should be according to the FSM:



I ask because my idle has always been mostly steady, but doesn't always do teh accelerated cycle, or the 1500rpm thermowax cycle (unless you tap the gas). I also cannot get the idle to breach 550 rpm no matter what I try. I am confident that I don't have any vacuum leaks (just put a new UIM gasket in and checked all the connections when I did my injectors ~2 months ago).

I also noticed that the bottom air hose going into the ACV goes into the bumper wall right next to the fan shroud, and I think it goes down and sucks air in from a little vent down there... and seems unfiltered.

 

They have metal lines that run to them, the vac line is off to the far left of them near the firewall. It is possible the wire broke off of that part, haven't seen an acv in a while.

 

The big hose comming off the ACV goes to the air chamber and air silencer as shown in the FSM. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I belive they're just air tanks to help maintain pressure.

 

The missing solenoid that is plugged with a bolt....is the Port Air Solenoid. It only injected air into the exaust ports prior to twenty thousand miles. After that twenty thousand miles it should not be of any use anymore....so the bolt in lieu of the solenoid should not be a problem except you MIGHT get a trouble shooting code which will not effect anything. Just the code itself.

The Relief Valve in the ACV will open at times and the air is dumped into the right fender where there is a SILENCER, or muffler if you will.

It's good to see from the picture that you have the correct vacuum line coming off the nipple that feeds the pressure sensor. There's a orifice inside that line about an inch or two inside. Just FYI.

The aux ports are driven by exaust pressure from a nipple located on the Split Air Pipe just below the mushroom looking check valve on the Split Air Pipe.

Free FSM'S are online. Good money can also be spent on them at Mazdatrix or your local dealer or E-Bay.

 

Cool, thanks for the answers. The FSM is what's getting me in trouble, I'm always finding fun things to do.

I did see a vacuum line running off the split air pipe that seems to run into the LIM right behind the rear actuator. I'm assuming that if I do remove emissions, I just have to find a place to stick that line so it is still getting pressure. Someone had suggested running a line directly off the exhaust at some point near the engine and I could retain full functionality after my emissions removal project.

 

Actually you were looking at the auxiliary port actuators, not the secondary ports.

 

thats not a bolt the wires are broke off

 

So that might be why there's 4 small holes in teh top of the bolt then...

From what I've read though, I'm not missing anything, and it might actually cause problems because I know ECU ***** up after 100k miles and re-anables teh under 20k switch.

 

*******From what I've read though, I'm not missing anything, and it might actually cause problems because I know ECU ***** up after 100k miles and re-anables teh under 20k switch. ******* You have been paying attention, havn't you. Good. Actually, if it starts injecting a touch more air to the exaust ports...it hurts nothing. The ACV can only hurt you if something called the anti-afterburn valve inside the acv leaks. It's the only part of the acv that can/will feed air into the INTAKE runners. It does a small amount of injection during deceleration and only then, UNLESS its leaking. IF it leaks it will leak unauthorized air during idle speeds and mess your mind up trying to fix a irregular idle. Sort of like having a small vacuum hose leaking. Usually can be detected by spraying some starter fluid into the airpumps intake hose. If that causes the idle speed to rise/fall, then the anti-afterburn valve is leaking somewhat. Ain't supposed to leak at idle.

Yeah, I should have noticed the two wires were missing off the Port Air solenoid and that there was no bolt installed. I'd leave it just like that. There's nothing to be gained by putting a new one on.