What I did wrong??
12-22-10, 10:54 AM
#26
Your car is an S5. It has fuel cut built into the gas peddle (the S4 models did not have this feature). Hold the gas peddle to the floor, crank for 10 sec, turn the key off for 10 sec, repeat. Do this 5-8 times, it'll start to run after it finally defloods, but keep the gas to floor for a time or two more, then release the gas peddle while cranking.
Good Luck
Good Luck
12-22-10, 12:59 PM
#27
Took everything apart and reassembled and no start. I didnt see anything wrong under the LIM that stood out. Both primary and secondary fuel rails were full of fuel, the injector tips were wet with fuel, so I believe getting fuel is not the problem. I put new wires on despite others checking out.
I tend to think several people on here are correct in that some how it is still flooded. When I tried to start it it vaguely sounded like a couple of times that it wanted to compress, but not so. I removed the plugs, EGI fuse and held the pedal to the floor and turned it over about 10 seconds 5 separate times. I'll do a few more times, add the oil and do it again. Running out of time so I'll have to push the car out of the way to leave for Christmas.
Many thanks to all your quality inputs and Merry Christmas.
I tend to think several people on here are correct in that some how it is still flooded. When I tried to start it it vaguely sounded like a couple of times that it wanted to compress, but not so. I removed the plugs, EGI fuse and held the pedal to the floor and turned it over about 10 seconds 5 separate times. I'll do a few more times, add the oil and do it again. Running out of time so I'll have to push the car out of the way to leave for Christmas.
Many thanks to all your quality inputs and Merry Christmas.
12-22-10, 05:33 PM
#29
Gave it one last shot by putting even more oil in the plug holes. Rotated with 22mm using the alternator, then tried starting. Didnt start but kinda almost did. Looks like I'll try the other method AGreen suggest.
AGreen, are you saying uncap one of the 2 manifold caps, attach a hose and blow oil in. Is this right? I ask because I never heard of this? Probably wont get to try for next few days though.
AGreen, are you saying uncap one of the 2 manifold caps, attach a hose and blow oil in. Is this right? I ask because I never heard of this? Probably wont get to try for next few days though.
12-22-10, 07:13 PM
#30
MECP Certified Installer
the OEM fasteners are zinc plated, you can have the stock fasteners re-plated to look like new again but i doubt that's the case here.
i wash the fasteners in an acidic solution that cleans the oxidization off the zinc but leaves the zinc intact, it takes some work but anyone can do it so long as the fasteners aren't actually rusted through the plating. with that said i dislike the builders that strip the coatings off the rotors, leaving the raw metal that can rust easily(rotors aren't zinc plated but have a alloy plating that can take the extreme temperatures).
i wash the fasteners in an acidic solution that cleans the oxidization off the zinc but leaves the zinc intact, it takes some work but anyone can do it so long as the fasteners aren't actually rusted through the plating. with that said i dislike the builders that strip the coatings off the rotors, leaving the raw metal that can rust easily(rotors aren't zinc plated but have a alloy plating that can take the extreme temperatures).
12-22-10, 08:10 PM
#31
One of the manifold caps will work just fine. I just pull the vacuum tube off the MAP sensor and dip it in a bottle. IF that doesn't work, then I'll remove the whole line, suck up oil in it, then blow it into the engine. In your situation (with such a CLEAN engine) I'd recommend removing the vacuum tube from the engine (the MAP line) and use a NEW vacuum tube to do this. Oil will degrade the rubber hose quickly.
The reason I chose that port is that it's dead center of the manifold. Due to its location, it evenly distributes oil to the front and rear rotors. Really any vacuum source will get the job done though. I know for a fact that if you pour enough oil down the brake booster line, an Rx8 will recover from a floodout
I tried putting oil in the spark plug holes a few times, but it's just so damn messy. Plus it takes so much longer to pull the plugs, and you never really know if you're getting it in there!
Not to toot my own horn, but my method really is the ****.
The reason I chose that port is that it's dead center of the manifold. Due to its location, it evenly distributes oil to the front and rear rotors. Really any vacuum source will get the job done though. I know for a fact that if you pour enough oil down the brake booster line, an Rx8 will recover from a floodout
I tried putting oil in the spark plug holes a few times, but it's just so damn messy. Plus it takes so much longer to pull the plugs, and you never really know if you're getting it in there!
Not to toot my own horn, but my method really is the ****.
12-23-10, 11:15 PM
#32
12-30-10, 01:31 PM
#33
Success! Thanks to the forum's help and AGreen's de-flood method, it started. A great sight to see was this big cloud of white smoke that persisted for like 5 minutes. I still need to bleed the air out of the coolant and then I'll change the oil.
I still have the bad connector issue and ordered new connectors, but haven't received them yet. Hopefully the connector wont work lose for a week or so.
Attached is a pic of what AGreen recommended in lieu of de-flooding by removing the spark plugs. Run a hose to the intake manifold to the vacuum cap & blow oil through it to build compression. It works!
I still have the bad connector issue and ordered new connectors, but haven't received them yet. Hopefully the connector wont work lose for a week or so.
Attached is a pic of what AGreen recommended in lieu of de-flooding by removing the spark plugs. Run a hose to the intake manifold to the vacuum cap & blow oil through it to build compression. It works!
12-30-10, 02:34 PM
#34
vinegar is mainly used for mineral deposits for uses like cleaning glass or hard water off your car's paint.
most heavy duty automotive degreasers will work for the fasteners, find degreasers that can be diluted but don't dilute it. soak the parts in the degreaser for at least a few hours then brush them with a soft brush or place them in a tumbler in the solution for a few hours, rinse and repeat until they're all clean. purple power works just fine for the job and can be found at most auto parts stores, just don't use it on aluminum parts and wear gloves while using it. wash the parts in fresh water afterwards to get any residue off or they will have a white residue on them after drying.
grats jd!
most heavy duty automotive degreasers will work for the fasteners, find degreasers that can be diluted but don't dilute it. soak the parts in the degreaser for at least a few hours then brush them with a soft brush or place them in a tumbler in the solution for a few hours, rinse and repeat until they're all clean. purple power works just fine for the job and can be found at most auto parts stores, just don't use it on aluminum parts and wear gloves while using it. wash the parts in fresh water afterwards to get any residue off or they will have a white residue on them after drying.
grats jd!
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 12-30-10 at 02:37 PM.
12-30-10, 05:38 PM
#36
Too old for this
If it's flooding every time you start it, put in a fuel cut switch. Yes, it's kind of a cheap bandaid, but it really does work. The fuel relay is easy to get to under the dash just to the right of the steering column. I used a beefy switch and put it on the main power to the relay.
12-30-10, 06:02 PM
#37
Any instructions on how to install a fuel cutoff switch? I'm no electrical person.
I know where the relay is because I changed it when I did the fuel pump this past winter.
I'll do a compression test tomorrow, but my gut feel is its not a compression issue. Once it starts it runs fine. Something is causing a fuel dump at start up (I think).
I know where the relay is because I changed it when I did the fuel pump this past winter.
I'll do a compression test tomorrow, but my gut feel is its not a compression issue. Once it starts it runs fine. Something is causing a fuel dump at start up (I think).
12-31-10, 04:15 PM
#38
Once I burned off the oil I injected and burned off the excess fuel from flooding, it now starts. It's a weak start, but it starts.
I ran a compression check and the numbers are kinda low for Front Rotor:
Front ~70 psi
Rear ~90 psi
Mileage: 196,546
I ran a compression check and the numbers are kinda low for Front Rotor:
Front ~70 psi
Rear ~90 psi
Mileage: 196,546
12-31-10, 05:20 PM
#40
Good advice. So how would 70 psi rate? Should I plan on ordering a engine gasket set? I read someplace, but I can't find it now, 70 psi and below is the lower limit. Anything 70 and below is marginal. Is that an accurate assumption?
01-01-11, 09:10 AM
#42
Ok, I figured as much but wanted to hear it from the experts. I need to start accumulating engine rebuild gaskets and so forth. $$$$
I noticed black dust on the ground at the back of the car inline with the tail pipes. Upon closer look, it looks like after all these startups and running the car it has been blowing out carbon. Enough that there are two trails on the garage floor.
I noticed black dust on the ground at the back of the car inline with the tail pipes. Upon closer look, it looks like after all these startups and running the car it has been blowing out carbon. Enough that there are two trails on the garage floor.
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