Ok so i was driving down the road the other day and briefly went WOT. All of a sudden, i got a huge back fire, my car started to stumble and anything past about 1/16 travel on the gas pedal and the car would bog out and start dying. My check engine light came on. I limped the car home. The whole time my A/F guage read full rich. When i rev it just a little at idle, it will pop and backfire and the whole engine will shake severely hard. And this is at low Rpm's. right now the motor is hot so i cant do a ghetto compression test-(listen for the 3 even swooshes) What could of caused this? it was running fine before this? id appreciate ANYTHING you have to say. -alex

 

sounds like it could be quite a few things, how hot is it?

 

how hot is what? the engine temp is reading halfway, its 47°F outside. My intake is mounted forward of my radiator in the airdam of my bumper, it was maybe 60° in the car, my body temp is normal??? which temp are you referring too?? sorry, im very very pissed right now. -alex

 

oh an btw, it doesnt sound like a ping, like a metal clank in the engine, it sounds like an explosion out of the exhaust, my car is strieghtpiped which makes it louder, but im sure i would of heard a clank of some sort if it was in the engine. -alex

 

bump

 

late shift bump

 

check engine light you say?

http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/article...odes/main.html

 

i just got done pulling my plugs and crankind it over. Each compression release from the plug holes were even. im going to assume i didnt damage anything internally. im assuming this may either be timing related or tps reated. i just got new plugs.

 

check engine light...check the code. if the code goes away when you turn off the car, check the code when the car is still running and the check light is on. if its code 27, then you've got a metering oil pump problem...which is a pain. this is for an S5 btw, if you have an S4, disregard the code 27 part, and checking your code's is a bit harder.

 

i do have an S5. Could a MOP cause the problems that i am having? It also tends to pop/backfire when i give it any throttle. it idles fine though -alex

 

if the check engine light didnt come on until your problems started happening, then obviously whatever has failed should be replaced first thing....if the computer can display the check engine light, then a code can be brought up for it.........bring up the code, replace the part.......should fix it, if it doesnt, post more.

 

i just got the codes-grounded the green plug in engine bay. I got code#'s 3,6,7,8,11,20,30. Does this mean im basically screwed?? Im having trouble as to absorbing what all this means. -alex

 

holy codes batman. those may be codes for things that have messed up in the past/been fixed. you never know. the ecu stores the codes (most of them) until it is reset. you might want to try resetting it, pull the battery ground off and pump your brake pedal a few times to get any trickle of juice out of the system. could your code 20 and 7 actually be 27? i thought mine was 20 and 7, until i realized i was being retarded.

 

the thing is, i had my battery out of the car all winter and i decided to take the car out for a spin. It all happened at once.

 

just wondering, are you using the correct battery/alternator?

 

i have an Autozone battery. The battery lost power over night and reset the ECU. the codes are gone. I dont think ill be able to get them back unless something like this happens again. Is it possible that my car went into limp mode and therefor caused my car to run like this? How can i check to see if the MOP is still operational?

 

oh, and i appreciate all the help guys, im really feeling down about this and i want to know why my car did this. once again. i appreciate you help -alex

 

bump

 

have you translated what that list of codes was above? that would be a good starting point. from what i remember on an FD the lower the code number usually the worse the problem is. code 3 may be like a crank angle sensor???, failure of which could certainly cause a seemingly disastrous condition like you describe.

 

here they are. Code 11- intake thermosensor. Code 27-MOP. I dont know if it codes 30 and 3 consecutively or Code 33 but code 30- split air soleniod valve, Code 3- CAS, code 33- Port air soleniod valve. COde 6- there doesnt appear to be a code 6 and Code 8- AFM. What make my car decide to crap out like this at one point all of a sudden? my car now starts up and runs fine. I just jump started it and it drives almost like it did before all of this happened. what gives??? -alex

 

is it charging properly?how is your alternator?I have seen a week alt. cause serious backfiring.

 

my car did almost EXACTLY this.

one of my intercooler pipes had blown off..
I dunno if you have a TII or not because you didn't say but I figured I'd post anyways, maybe I can help.

If the problem never happens again after resetting the ecu then I'd say FORGET IT HAPPENED

 

This happend to me on a test drive, but it was an FD and what caused the problem was the line to the pressure sensor (at least that is what it looked like)blew off. I don't know if it is the same for S5s (might be) try looking though. After pushing it back on, the car acted normal and only backfired a couple more times. I think the cpu needed to relearn.

I hope this might help.

 

Ouch, same thing happened to me this past week. I ended up blowing a apex seal because of a boost spike, but if I were you I'd check for vacuum leaks, IC hose, other than that I don't want to scare you in thinking you blew the motor but have it checked out.

 

I replied to your thread on MIrotoryclub. sounds like your problem is the MOP, the code 27 its giving you.