What happened to my turbo.
#4
Trunk Ornament
iTrader: (11)
If it was a TII swap, and not a NA block w/TII parts to convert it, it should have had the adequate oil supply. Unless something was blocking the supply or return lines. If the turbo is completely seized up, it's either due to improper bearing clearances, improper oil flow, or something mechanically bound the turbo. I'd say take it off and disassemble it.
#5
Top Down, Boost Up
iTrader: (7)
I'd check the oil feed line on the emissions rack to be sure it's not plugged up, as well as the CHRA and drain line.
Turbo rebuild: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/how-rebuild-stock-ht-18-turbo-build-hybrid-959045/
Turbo rebuild: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/how-rebuild-stock-ht-18-turbo-build-hybrid-959045/
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#8
Sharp Claws
iTrader: (30)
well, partially it was just me saying "screw rotaries".
but yeah, if it is siezed the compressor blades are probably damaged as well as the compressor housing and chra, turbine wheel and shaft are going to be junk. 'bout the only thing that likely took it well enough was the hotside snail.
but yeah, if it is siezed the compressor blades are probably damaged as well as the compressor housing and chra, turbine wheel and shaft are going to be junk. 'bout the only thing that likely took it well enough was the hotside snail.
#9
Turbo power, activate!
iTrader: (7)
Last time the turbo got stuck on me was when I had it off to change the manifold gasket and a bit of small rust fell into the turbine and got stuck in there. I was wondering why I wasnt building boost and the turbo was quite stuck, until I took it off and seperated the housing.
#10
I took some pliers to the locking nut on the cold side and tried to spin it. It grinded alil then freed up like nothing was wrong. Started tue engine and it seized again. I think there may be some carbon that got stuck in the hot side. I'm going to remove the turbo and hit it with some carb cleaner.
#13
Im not going to rebuild it. Ill just buy new nice ball bearing unit. This is a good excuse to. My goal is to make 400ish hp so might as well go big.
And I cant send out the turbo, my 7 is my only car. I use it daily. Unless I throw on a n/a manifold.
And I cant send out the turbo, my 7 is my only car. I use it daily. Unless I throw on a n/a manifold.
#14
Trunk Ornament
iTrader: (11)
It sounds like you might not know how much that all really entails....
There is no ball bearing HT18-2s. So if it's a ball bearing turbocharger you want, you will need to get a turbo manifold for whatever turbo you'll be getting; the stock one only bolts to the HT18 series. Then, you'll need to change the downpipe as well, and you'll more than likely need to get an external wastegate. Regardless of what BB turbo you get, you're going to have to do somethign about fuel management. The stock 550cc injectors, ecu, and fuel pump will just not cut it. 400hp? Start thinking about an upgraded radiator and intercooler too.
I've been down this road. It gets pricey
There is no ball bearing HT18-2s. So if it's a ball bearing turbocharger you want, you will need to get a turbo manifold for whatever turbo you'll be getting; the stock one only bolts to the HT18 series. Then, you'll need to change the downpipe as well, and you'll more than likely need to get an external wastegate. Regardless of what BB turbo you get, you're going to have to do somethign about fuel management. The stock 550cc injectors, ecu, and fuel pump will just not cut it. 400hp? Start thinking about an upgraded radiator and intercooler too.
I've been down this road. It gets pricey
#15
I know its expensive. Trust me.
I just finished a turbo swap engine, trans, rear sub frame. With an Haltech ECU. I know what it takes to make the switch. The drive tran swap cost alil over 5k. so i know it gets expensive.
My thoughts are since my turbo is out might aswell replace it which the 'end of the line' turbo that I want. rather than just getting a replacement, for now. And im not going to make 400 on stock ports anyway. I can by the turbo, mani, and wastegate keep the boost low til I rebuild and port the engine. Ill turn up the boost when the engine can handle it.
I just finished a turbo swap engine, trans, rear sub frame. With an Haltech ECU. I know what it takes to make the switch. The drive tran swap cost alil over 5k. so i know it gets expensive.
My thoughts are since my turbo is out might aswell replace it which the 'end of the line' turbo that I want. rather than just getting a replacement, for now. And im not going to make 400 on stock ports anyway. I can by the turbo, mani, and wastegate keep the boost low til I rebuild and port the engine. Ill turn up the boost when the engine can handle it.
#17
Trunk Ornament
iTrader: (11)
Lol... the TII swap on my car cost me all of about $600. The drivetrain came from a guy who only bought the TII FC because he wanted the stronger differential for his LS1 swap.
It was all the other stuff down the line that got me. Radiator, intercooler kit, ECU, fuel system, turbo, etc...
It was all the other stuff down the line that got me. Radiator, intercooler kit, ECU, fuel system, turbo, etc...
#22
Trunk Ornament
iTrader: (11)
Then build your own hybrid for a lot less. You'll still have to have the rotating assembly sent somewhere to get balanced, and if you want the turbine wheel clipped. The end result may or may not be worth it, depending on how much the shop charges to do the work. From what I've heard, Brian does great work, and it's also backed by a warranty. And ~$900 for a well-built turbo that can make 400hp on stock ports is pretty damn good.
Keep in mind, this isn't a WRX. Rotary engines don't make near the power for the cost and size of turbos as piston engines do. Keep in mind, it only displaces 1.3L.
Keep in mind, this isn't a WRX. Rotary engines don't make near the power for the cost and size of turbos as piston engines do. Keep in mind, it only displaces 1.3L.