Wasnt getting boost. took off my filter and tried to rotate the fins. Nothing.

What you think?

Maybe it overheated. Its completely seized.

Edit: Oil is all in the turbo. Damn. I just finished my turbo swap.

 

Do you have proper flow of oil in & OUT of the turbo?

 

No idea. Im guessing I didn't. I kinda just assumed that the oil flowed fine.

How could I have checked that?

 

If it was a TII swap, and not a NA block w/TII parts to convert it, it should have had the adequate oil supply. Unless something was blocking the supply or return lines. If the turbo is completely seized up, it's either due to improper bearing clearances, improper oil flow, or something mechanically bound the turbo. I'd say take it off and disassemble it.

 

I'd check the oil feed line on the emissions rack to be sure it's not plugged up, as well as the CHRA and drain line.

Turbo rebuild: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/how-rebuild-stock-ht-18-turbo-build-hybrid-959045/

 

i'd take a hammer to it and pitch it in the garbage.

 

^ Very true. The shaft is going to be wasted, and the housings may have wear too.

 

well, partially it was just me saying "screw rotaries".

but yeah, if it is siezed the compressor blades are probably damaged as well as the compressor housing and chra, turbine wheel and shaft are going to be junk. 'bout the only thing that likely took it well enough was the hotside snail.

 

Last time the turbo got stuck on me was when I had it off to change the manifold gasket and a bit of small rust fell into the turbine and got stuck in there. I was wondering why I wasnt building boost and the turbo was quite stuck, until I took it off and seperated the housing.

 

I took some pliers to the locking nut on the cold side and tried to spin it. It grinded alil then freed up like nothing was wrong. Started tue engine and it seized again. I think there may be some carbon that got stuck in the hot side. I'm going to remove the turbo and hit it with some carb cleaner.

 

If you're going to pull the turbo, I would suggest at least removing both housings to see if the wheels are chewed up from contact. From there you can decide if the rotating assembly and CHRA are salvageable.

 

i know its expensive, but might as well send it off to bnr to get it rebuilt. or you can do it yourself. there is a thread in this section detailing how to do so.

 

Im not going to rebuild it. Ill just buy new nice ball bearing unit. This is a good excuse to. My goal is to make 400ish hp so might as well go big.

And I cant send out the turbo, my 7 is my only car. I use it daily. Unless I throw on a n/a manifold.

 

It sounds like you might not know how much that all really entails....

There is no ball bearing HT18-2s. So if it's a ball bearing turbocharger you want, you will need to get a turbo manifold for whatever turbo you'll be getting; the stock one only bolts to the HT18 series. Then, you'll need to change the downpipe as well, and you'll more than likely need to get an external wastegate. Regardless of what BB turbo you get, you're going to have to do somethign about fuel management. The stock 550cc injectors, ecu, and fuel pump will just not cut it. 400hp? Start thinking about an upgraded radiator and intercooler too.

I've been down this road. It gets pricey

 

I know its expensive. Trust me.

I just finished a turbo swap engine, trans, rear sub frame. With an Haltech ECU. I know what it takes to make the switch. The drive tran swap cost alil over 5k. so i know it gets expensive.

My thoughts are since my turbo is out might aswell replace it which the 'end of the line' turbo that I want. rather than just getting a replacement, for now. And im not going to make 400 on stock ports anyway. I can by the turbo, mani, and wastegate keep the boost low til I rebuild and port the engine. Ill turn up the boost when the engine can handle it.

 

you can make 400rwhp on stock ports and get more torque at lower rpms compared to porting it out.

 

Lol... the TII swap on my car cost me all of about $600. The drivetrain came from a guy who only bought the TII FC because he wanted the stronger differential for his LS1 swap.

It was all the other stuff down the line that got me. Radiator, intercooler kit, ECU, fuel system, turbo, etc...

 

send off the turbo to bnr, and slap on your na exhaust manifold and exhaust and just run it NA till you get it back from bnr.

 

Ill probably take your advice. I think the BNR stage 4 doesnt need a core. I don't have time to be switching out exhaust. And I really dont feel like waiting 4 weeks for a new turbo.

 

the bnr stage 4 does indeed need a core as a core charge will be imposed upon you. 4 weeks? i had mine in two.

 

On the website it says the price of 875. It doesn't say if a core is needed.
875 is alil expensive for a turbo that barely makes 400hp. And I have to give up my old turbo.

 

Then build your own hybrid for a lot less. You'll still have to have the rotating assembly sent somewhere to get balanced, and if you want the turbine wheel clipped. The end result may or may not be worth it, depending on how much the shop charges to do the work. From what I've heard, Brian does great work, and it's also backed by a warranty. And ~$900 for a well-built turbo that can make 400hp on stock ports is pretty damn good.

Keep in mind, this isn't a WRX. Rotary engines don't make near the power for the cost and size of turbos as piston engines do. Keep in mind, it only displaces 1.3L.

 

Well the 400 hp is what BNR claims its capable of making. I did a search(albeit a quick one) 300- 350ish is what alot of people are putting down.

 

and do you have any idea how much 400 wheel HP is in a bnr in an fc? thats an 11 second car in the 1/4th. its a crazy ride man.

 

Your probably right. Cause I haven't been in a 400hp fc. My problem is I'm trying to compete with my buds 1000hp sc300. Actually its more like 800 on pump fuel. But still.