Hey guys, I was wondering what would be a good price on re-build or new motors. I have been getting alot of price quotes from different places. I think its time to get it done. Even though I do not really know how many miles this original really has.

The mileage stop reading at 114,XXX, I am guess-a-mating its at 160,XXX give or take 10,XXX. I did not find nothing wrong with the motor I think but It was just the other day my motor just drops and dies out of no where. It happened twice last week. Died once after a drive thru-car wash, and when I was pulling out of the wash I have notice my RPMs were dropping under 1k. Then I pulled up on a stop light then feels like it was just giving up so I had to rev it up in neutral myself so it would not die. I had to pull to the side of the road because I was paranoid. But anytime before the wash this never happened to me before. I was suspecting one of the electricals under the hood got wet. I do have a Turbo 2 hood, maybe water slipped in the vent. I notice when I popped the hood one of the cables was wet so I dried it up, its the one right near the alternator just above that has a marooned colored boot. I was not assuming that would cause the low idle problem but I fired it back up after it was dry. Then I was off, normally.

The second time, after I dropped of my son to school, the following day. I took off and as I approached the stop light it died. Im like WTF! But it was able to fire back up then I was off. Came home popped the hood to see whats wrong. Battery good, alternator is good I believe. It could be the TPS? (last owner did mentioned about changing it out, but never did). Anytime after that day it never died again. But I am just concerned till this very day. I want to be aware to know whats going on. Any help? Please feel free to tell me if you are not clear of my [problem]. Thanks.

 

I paid 1200$ per rebuild, not including my apex seals or any parts that may be worn and need replacing including bearings and housings. Another person I know charges $2000 and covers the seals and I am not sure what else.? It's best to find out exactly what the rebuild covers.

If the engine currently runs, it could mean that it only needs seals and maybe one part broke. You could also find out that the previous owner rebuild it incorrectly and 2/3's of the engine is destroyed. It's best to talk to a few rebuilders. Some are on this forum and could give you some better insight.

Concerning your car issues, I have no idea. I take it that you did a compression test and that is why you think you need a rebuild.?!

 

$1400+ is the entry level pricing.

anything below that you're probably getting garbage that will cost you even more to fix.

 

Very well said guys thanks. I have been researching sites. Like Mazdatrix, Lucky 7, and Rotary Lab. Pretty fair pricings all I need is the money. It's hard to find rebuild shops in San Diego. Especially when you dont have an insider. All the shops mentioned above are located 2-3 hours away from where I live. But if I have to go that route just to tow my ride there then so be it.

 

Im pretty sure the amounts they just gave you were for just the rebuild. I suspect you would have to pay more if you wanted them to pull the motor and put it back in for you, might want to check and see if the shop you chooses has an hourly rate for that kind of stuff.

 

yes, you won't get the engine yanked out and reinstalled for that price. for the full service prices start at $2100 and go up from there for a rebuild with engine R+R.

an engine rebuild takes about 30 hours, engine R+R about 16. that's 46 labor hours plus about $800 in parts for a net profit of $1300 for the shop for a week's worth of work. can't expect much more than that. i would prefer doing tune ups all day long, the work is easier and income about 4 times that but i'm thick skulled..

 

Haha thanks for the heads up. I figure I be spending approx. 3 grand out the the door. So Im not surprised. Well time to start SAVING!

 

Okay since I started a thread I mind as well post it here. Me and my buddy who is new to the rotary game much like myself, I have a few concerns. First off, I suggested to throw a T2 tranny swap on my N/A. I know it has been done before by others. What I want to know is would I have to get a T2 differential as well? A new clutch? Flywheel? What else would I need to make the puzzle fit rite?

 

you need the slave cylinder, flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing, crossmember and a modified driveshaft with a turbo input yoke and non turbo output yoke. you can also swap the turbo differential yoke onto the non turbo differential(will need a turbo driveshaft for this) but you won't find those falling out of trees.

 

Hmmm, can I use the stock t2 drive shaft?

 

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