What is this fuel line?
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From: Phoenix
What is this fuel line?
So, my 90 NA hadnt been running in over a year, the battery was dead. So I got a new battery, and it started right up. Took it to put some fuel in it, washed it, etc. On my drive home it started REALLY smelling like fuel. So I investigated and found a rubber line was cracked and leaking fuel. Now it wont start Im assuming because its leaking so much fuel.
It looks easy enough to replace, but I dont know what it is or if I can get it at NAPA or if I have to go to the dealer. I took a couple of pics for reference...its the line circled in white.
Thanks everyone!
It looks easy enough to replace, but I dont know what it is or if I can get it at NAPA or if I have to go to the dealer. I took a couple of pics for reference...its the line circled in white.
Thanks everyone!
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From: Phoenix
Thanks J5sense. Any idea how to get a part number? Or just pull it off and take it into NAPA or whatever and say I need one of these? Also...will I have to worry about gas spewing everywhere once I disconnect it?
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Norcal/Bay Area, CA
Just use generic high pressure fuel injection line. I'd suggest doing both the feed line and return line since you are in there. If it is leaking already, there shouldn't be any pressure in the line and the gas will drip out rather than spew.
yeah you might get some spray when you take it off. just use a rag. make sure the key is off and your good. use a rag or something to catch the fuel the spark plugs are right under there so make sure you dry it out before starting back up.
its generic fuel line, just take it to autozone or napa and they will cut you a new hose...
replace both clamps too. they tend to go weak and can cause more leaks.
its generic fuel line, just take it to autozone or napa and they will cut you a new hose...
replace both clamps too. they tend to go weak and can cause more leaks.
You can also disconnect the fuel pump wiring plug at the rear of the car and then start the car up and it will eventually die due to lack of fuel and thus the pressure in the lines is reduced. And when finished replacing the line(s) reconnect the fuel pump and jumper the fuel check connector and turn the key to on and the fuel pump will turn on so you could visually see if there are any leaks in addition to repressurizing the fuel lines.
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From: Phoenix
Couple more questions guys...I called auto zone and they have different sizes of tubing...anyone know what size I need? I called the Mazda dealership and they said they didnt know. Otherwise I could take it off and take it in to Autozone. Also, When I pull the tubing off of the fuel filter, do I need to find a way to plug that hole until I get the tubing back on? Is it gonna stream fuel? I know it'll drip a bit, but will it continue flowing out?
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So after some research it seems I probably have a bad sender unit. Im confused as to how to get to it though. A bunch of posts talk about taking off the rear wheel and the plastic trim, but this post appears to say I can get to it through the back? Is this correct?
Check the sending unit inside the gas tank. Lift up the back carpet, and the mystery material padding. On the driver's side of the trunk, you'll see a shinny metal cover with a wire coming from it. Remove the 4 screws and push the rubber dust boot down through the hole. Remove the fuel pump fuse, and start the car. After it dies, proceed to remove the pump. Unhook the sending and return fuel hoses. Now would be a good time to replace the hose clamps. Next, remove all the screws surrounding the pump assy. The screws like to strip out, so use a good quality phillips screwdriver and a hammer to get them out easily. The fuel sender is the long wire with a float at the end of it. Remove the metal cover from the sending unit, and look for holes.
Unhook the wiring harness and test the wire that is for the sending unit (I can't remember the color(s)). As you move the float up, the resistance should decrease. If all is well, then I'd check the gauge next.
Unhook the wiring harness and test the wire that is for the sending unit (I can't remember the color(s)). As you move the float up, the resistance should decrease. If all is well, then I'd check the gauge next.
There are two panels under the rear carpet and the smaller one houses the fuel pump enclosure which has the sender connected to the pump. The plug to the fuel pump has 4 wires and the front side of the harness has a W/G wire and if this wire were "temporarily grounded" (for testing purposes only!) w/key to on the gas gauge needle should rise towards the top and if it does then it indicates the gauge is good and either the sender or the wiring/connection is not up to par.
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From: Phoenix
There are two panels under the rear carpet and the smaller one houses the fuel pump enclosure which has the sender connected to the pump. The plug to the fuel pump has 4 wires and the front side of the harness has a W/G wire and if this wire were "temporarily grounded" (for testing purposes only!) w/key to on the gas gauge needle should rise towards the top and if it does then it indicates the gauge is good and either the sender or the wiring/connection is not up to par.
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
the Mazda OEM line is available, but only in short lengths, and its EXPENSIVE a meter of mazda OEM fuel line would be like $200!
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From: Phoenix
8mm. for some reason its hard to find high pressure fuel hose, and the easiest/simplest place to find it is a BMW or Mercedes dealership, they sell 1 meter lengths, and its inexpensive.
the Mazda OEM line is available, but only in short lengths, and its EXPENSIVE a meter of mazda OEM fuel line would be like $200!
the Mazda OEM line is available, but only in short lengths, and its EXPENSIVE a meter of mazda OEM fuel line would be like $200!
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