skatingsamurai

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ucZpjaMlpM

i have no idea what this buzzer, but i think it might be related to my rebuild not start (maybe) i had this in another thread but i thought it would be more apropriate to makea new thread for this....but yeah, my car wont start now too.. had it running yesterday for about 20 min. then shut it off, then i couldnt get it started again. i ordered new plugs and they should be getting here by tuesday (ugh) so im hopeing that since one of my plugs is damaged that that is the problem here...that and its really getting flooded, when i pull the plugs, there like soaking...BUT i really would like to know what that pesky buzzer is.

let me know what problems you guys have run into after a rebuild thats similar to mine.

thanks!-
steve.

Thruan

dunno... sounds like something is spinning. elec water pump? fans? possibly the starter motor is spinning but not engaging (short circuit or wired wrong).. thats about all i can think of

Icemark

sounds like the door buzzer and you have your AFM mounted incorrectly. It should be level not at an angle

NZConvertible

Sounds like the stock auxiliary e-fan running.

87FCTurboII

iTrader: (2)

I have the engine out of my TII and it does that when i put a battery in it and turn the key on. It does it with the door opened and closed. It didn't do it before. Maybe you didn't connect something or didn't get a good connection somewhere in the harness.

ziig

iTrader: (1)

do u have electric metering pump? maybe its not hooked up right....that is a rather loud sound though.let me know what u find out

skatingsamurai

the noise you hear in the engine is the stock aux elec. fan. it wont turn off.

and as for the noise, i have the door closed and it's still going off??? can someone compile a list of ALL the engine and cabin noises and what they mean? might be good for diagnostics

about the afm. i rotated it so that it is flat. but, i had it installed like this before and it diddnt effect the car at all.

but when i checked the plugs and noticed that one of them was damage, i cant help but wonder how much it can effect start up. when i got it started the day, it was cranking and cranking and cranking and eventually it baaaarely got off the ground. kinda like a plane was takin off or something...it wasnt boom, instant start up, it was very hesitant and stumbling. im really hoping...no im RELYING on this spark plug fix to be the key here because i dont know what cause the car to not start besides the normal bad compression. but it shouldnt be THIS bad. recently replaced coil packs. 10mm spark plug wires. rebuilt 550's,new 720s all new bushings and grommet, new fuel lines on the block, banjo mod, and a walbro 255 pump.

things to be fixed:

afm
plugs
check water pump connection
o2 wire? (what else should i check?)

rotoman2

Ya, I'm having the same problem. The service manual has a list to follow for troubleshooting a no start. You could have leaking injectors (need to be cleaned, balanced and checked for leakage), too high fuel pressure (new fuel pressure regulator), bad AFM (check resistances), bad thermo sensor (on back of water pump- check for resistance), bad throttle position sensor (resistance check, if it ever starts, recalibrate when warmed up, or bad ECI (need a diagnostic computer analysis- dealer). Of course, low compression is the biggest cause of flooding.

I have a brand new rebuild and have checked all the above on my 87 TII (except ECI, but I swapped out the N332 for and N328 and still had instant flooding). So now, I'm looking for a bad connection or lack of continuity in the wiring harness. Mine floods immediately, then if I disconnect the fuel pump, after a couple more turns it starts fine and runs one or two seconds until the fuel is exhausted. Really starting to grate me.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

put the Afm Level for one thing.Then you obviously Have "air"..you Have Fuel if the plugs are WET...so Now,just for to see if you are Timed correctly,Set the Engine so that the marks on the pulley are at the "pin" on the front Cover.Pull the CAS OUT,and check so that the Mark on the Gear is Aligned with the Bottom of the CAS(you will see a Mark on the Bottom of the CAS Shaft casing)..Now Without moving the Cas's Internals and Casing,RESTAB the CAS....Only DO THIS,If you feel comfortable with the Method.( I found That Was My problem after A "so called Rebuild")..If the Engine Is a NEWLY Rebuilt(meaning it hasn't started up YET.),you may have to Resort to Pull/Push Starting the car....Now if you have Swapped out your Engine From an S4 To an S5 TII,you should Know that the fuel Lines need to be Reversed...If You need any Factory Service manual INFO,Check out TROCHOID's Signature(hit Username "trochoid" under Search)..he Has a Link to the FSM and the Fuel and Electrical system Diagrams are in there..Hope that Helps you..STYX.

skatingsamurai

eci? and i have been thinking about doing the fuel cut switch. any links for how to´s? i should be getting mz new plugs on tue, like i said....ill be doing body work and packing to get home from school . my semesters done.

iSP33D-for-J3SUS

Like Icemark said, your AFM needs to be level. I doubt that will fix the problem but it will most certainly help.

Cheers,
Cody

skatingsamurai

i leveled the afm out more, at least as much as i had it before. i also checked to see if my fuel pump was the problem. i did the piggy back trick to see if it was getting power and it is....i checked to make sure the water thermo sensor?(the one behind the water pump was disconnected and it was ok.) i also check to see if i was getting any spark in my plugs and my L2 plug has a lil part of it chipped off and it was sparking at all! i know this becuase i pulled out the plugs, connected them and cranked and nothing at all. BUT this makes me wonder if the car should still start because now, since i stabbed the CAS, all it does is crank and it doesnt even stumble like it wants to turn over but it cant.

are there any resistors or anything that control the power to the spark plugs that might be able to check?????im starting to run out of ideas here.

one thing that i tried was some starter fluid to ensure that there was fuel, and it still diddnt even try o turn over. nada, zilch, zero, nothing.

another question. (yeah i know this is alot of different stuff in one thread)when stabbing the CAS i align the bump on the shaft to the SMALL divet on the gear right
?


one last thing on the electronics, i still dont have power to my head unit. (in the glove box) but i do here power going to the speakers. i can still sort of hear them turn on...which leads to one last question for this post. can someone show me a picture of the end of a s4 t2 harness (ecu side)

jgrts20

I notice the car wasnt running could it be ur heater core or maybe a waterpump!! Im stumped theres not much on the pass. side of the engine bay that would be doing that. AFM maybe? Check ur wires TOO.

skatingsamurai

ugh, im seriously thinking of just trading this car to someone who wants to deal with it...

inflatablepets

I have a crisp $100 bill for you.