I never have used AC in 4-5 years.

But then again, 100 degree's in Minnesota ain't gonna happen.

But still. I agree with you.

 

We normally don't see anything above 105F here in VA; however I know what it feels like to drive the FC on a HOT summer day with the windows UP (both of them)!

 

I have around 230whp. Just with a bridgeport and exhaust.(2.5k)

 

The hot summers are the only reason why I dislike not having any sunroofs on my FCs. Those things help out a lot!!

 

Having a sunroof does help a lot. At one point in the summer my passenger window switch and the sunroof switch weren't working, that sucks in a black car with a black interior when you go driving by signs that say things like 45C and 114F (yes I actually saw those temps displayed).

 

Yeah sunroofs are life savers...

As far as HP gains go....I think the whole thing is played out. Unless you're making a track car, just throw on a couple bolt ons and keep the rest of it clean. What's the point of ripping up one of the sexiest cars on the street just to lose a few pounds?

 

say no to leather seats. I'm with Idrinkalot, no point in building a racecar for the street. If you're building a dedicated track car then I can understand the point of Bridge or PP porting but on a streetcar??

 

YES they do, thank god!

 

I'll have to take back half of what I said about that fake header dyno sheet. It seems like that same company really cleaned it up. I mean, about half the static is still the same for both dynos, but it looks like about half of the static has been manually tweaked. It's a much cleaner photoshop job now. Now I really regret not saving the original dyno so I could say, "Hmm, you posted a new dyno and this time the 1st curve is the same but the static on the 2nd curve doesn't match as much as before." Seems like they might have also adjusted the power gains a hair to be more at the higher rpms, too.

 

did I miss something?

 

Its the only way to make REAL power with a n/a. Plus its fun to hear when people try to tell me i have a nasty miss, or my favorite was my timing was off.

 

Also a nice way to lose streetability and gas mileage on an N/A, that really is the choice, power or civility.

 

You should talk to those that are actually running a P Port on the street; before jumping on the "you will loose streetability" bandwagon.

 

i only have to ask one question, "How's your gas mileage? Is it anywhere near the 24 mpg I get?"

Or, "How is it @ cruise @ constant throttle @ 70 mph?"

I would never advocate full bridge or pports on a street car. Semi's, I might consider, if there was a way improve streetability.

 

Streetability is not a synonym of MPG; if so a hybrid is a streetable car, while anything under 24mpg is not?

If you want to go fast, you have to pay; however the pport debate should be a thing of the past, as they can be streetable (without the good MPG).

 

sorry to me, streetability means the ability to act as a civil daily driver without burning a huge hole in my wallet.

If we mean, can it drive on the road, then I could have an ITS racecar and call it streetable, and I could make it road legal and pass inspection, but would an ITS car be streetable? If you think so, then that's your opinion, and by that accord, bridgeports and p-ports are streetable. However, I tend to think no.

 

Streetable = same or better MPG than factory, quiet/reasonable ride, doesn't idle at 1500/2K RPMS, doesn't require me to rev up to 5000RPMS to take off from a light, etc. etc.

 

Bolt in a V8! Im up to 330 HP

Im about an hour away if you want a ride lol.

 

heres the best way to do it (sorry slpin, beat you to it)
1) unskrew the 4 bolts on the air filter box
2) take out the filter
3) install a new car

peace

 

So your FC is stock?

I don't mind a higher than factory idle, but if that is one of your citeriums, then a BP, semi pport, or pp might not be for you; and even then you might be surprised how good tuners can get them to idle at a reasonably low rpms.
I'll suggest the same thing to you, check with those that actually have those type or ports on a "streetable" car; and you might be surprised...

 

 

hardly, but it IS streetable


porting is not for me right now, that's why I'm still on stock ports. I thought I made that clear, my mistake.


cool, got any examples? I'd love to see some BP and PP rotaries right now.

 

Expect 10mpg or less on a BP or PP. Peak HP is higher than a street port, but the 0-60 on a BP is often the same or lower than a street port. i.e., your power during normal driving will actually stay the same or decrease on a BP. You only get the extra power if you rev high all the time. Noise will also increase a great deal. Saying "It's streetable" is kind of like saying, "It's fine". BP's are perfectly streetable if gas prices don't bother you and you spend all your time in the high revs anyway.

 

Yo. I drive my bridgeport all day at 2K, and leave lights at 1700 RPM. Peripheral ports are even more well behaved. Most of the myths concerning bridgeports come from the days of carburetors.

Gas mileage in the city is horrid.

 

Pports being well behaved like idle even higher or lower?