What is the fastest way to gain your N/A hp?
Yup. Go run your engine hard for awhile on a track or at an autocross, save up your money for a TII swap, and once your NA engine lets go, swap the TII in.
Or just sell your car and get a TII.
Or just sell your car and get a TII.
the hp/$ ratio is way off it costs more than its worth to make even decent power (trust me)
take your car drive it learn all u can and then buy a TII oh yea and love it
oh yea and to answer ROEN's ? i have no idea on power never dynoed and i have thought about standalone alot but my wallet and i had a discussion and decided that it would be better to drive this 7 till out of college and then buy the tII and then just go banana's on that
take your car drive it learn all u can and then buy a TII oh yea and love it
oh yea and to answer ROEN's ? i have no idea on power never dynoed and i have thought about standalone alot but my wallet and i had a discussion and decided that it would be better to drive this 7 till out of college and then buy the tII and then just go banana's on that
I DD'd my car all last summer with temperatures reaching above 110F at times, we were the hottest spot in the province many times and I have no AC, I didn't die from sweating. Sure AC is more comfortable, but it's not a necessity. I have manual steering and I don't get sore arms or get tired in parking lots because I'm not a panzy.
It all depends on what your tolerance of such things as to how acceptable they are. I love my manual steering (on a 15:1 power rack too) and I wouldn't go back to power. I probably wouldn't add AC either, too much weight, power drag and it compromises cooling.
It all depends on what your tolerance of such things as to how acceptable they are. I love my manual steering (on a 15:1 power rack too) and I wouldn't go back to power. I probably wouldn't add AC either, too much weight, power drag and it compromises cooling.
I DD'd my car all last summer with temperatures reaching above 110F at times, we were the hottest spot in the province many times and I have no AC, I didn't die from sweating. Sure AC is more comfortable, but it's not a necessity. I have manual steering and I don't get sore arms or get tired in parking lots because I'm not a panzy.
It all depends on what your tolerance of such things as to how acceptable they are. I love my manual steering (on a 15:1 power rack too) and I wouldn't go back to power. I probably wouldn't add AC either, too much weight, power drag and it compromises cooling.
It all depends on what your tolerance of such things as to how acceptable they are. I love my manual steering (on a 15:1 power rack too) and I wouldn't go back to power. I probably wouldn't add AC either, too much weight, power drag and it compromises cooling.
No need to call me that, I'm just letting the OP know my opinion.
Unfortunately, its all good fun to dream, but as previously stated, the car will be undriveable on the street. Your exhaust will make your ears bleed, not to mention be completely illegal. You will die of sweat in the summer with no A/C. You'll have sore shoulders from lack of power steering in parking lots. You'll be completely pissed at yourself for getting a heavy clutch in traffic. Your flywheel will be a pain getting used to. With a good size port job, you'll be lucky to push 15mpg on the highway, 12 in the city. Your girlfriend will hate being seen in your car, since theres no dash, no carpet.........
Play Well
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,218
Likes: 0
From: We're all fine here now, thank you. How are you?
I DD'd my car all last summer with temperatures reaching above 110F at times, we were the hottest spot in the province many times and I have no AC, I didn't die from sweating. Sure AC is more comfortable, but it's not a necessity. I have manual steering and I don't get sore arms or get tired in parking lots because I'm not a panzy.
It all depends on what your tolerance of such things as to how acceptable they are. I love my manual steering (on a 15:1 power rack too) and I wouldn't go back to power. I probably wouldn't add AC either, too much weight, power drag and it compromises cooling.
It all depends on what your tolerance of such things as to how acceptable they are. I love my manual steering (on a 15:1 power rack too) and I wouldn't go back to power. I probably wouldn't add AC either, too much weight, power drag and it compromises cooling.
I know. We have people on this thread claiming 240 hp from an NA without nitrous. Some others go the distance to bridgeport a 6-port (WTF?) and still others want him to toss his air pump (meaning goodbye to VDI and 5th/6th port). The OP said he has an s5. He needs his air pump to give him useable power.
To the OP, I suggest doing what a few others here have suggested. Read the FAQ section and do searches on reliability mods and enjoy learning about the 7 and save the money that you will waste trying to beef up your NA and put it towards a TII. I have a s5 that is a trouble-free DD and a s4 TII that I can take to events on weekends. Best of both worlds.
To the OP, I suggest doing what a few others here have suggested. Read the FAQ section and do searches on reliability mods and enjoy learning about the 7 and save the money that you will waste trying to beef up your NA and put it towards a TII. I have a s5 that is a trouble-free DD and a s4 TII that I can take to events on weekends. Best of both worlds.
The pansy comment was about the steering, not the AC, and it wasn't really directed at anyone in particular. With the steering it's not that hard at all unless you're stopped or going really, really slow, and even then it's not that bad. I've driven 8+ hours on a converted rack no problem, it's fine at autocrosses, it's fine at the track. I've never found that it tires me out at all. I'll never be convinced to go back to power steering in my FC, but I'd probably leave it on a "normal" car. I agree it's more comfortable with AC, but it's not like everyone died every time it got hot before AC was common.
Your comments were WAAAAAAY over dramatic, and I felt that they needed to be addressed. "You will die of sweat in the summer with no A/C. You'll have sore shoulders from lack of power steering in parking lots." No and no to those two from experience with my car. "You'll be completely pissed at yourself for getting a heavy clutch in traffic. Your flywheel will be a pain getting used to." my dad's car has a stiffer clutch and a light flywheel and everyone stalls it the first try, but you get used to it really quickly and it's not an issue. It makes rev matched downshifting easier to boot. I prefer it to my relatively soft stock clutch and heavy flywheel.
Your comments were WAAAAAAY over dramatic, and I felt that they needed to be addressed. "You will die of sweat in the summer with no A/C. You'll have sore shoulders from lack of power steering in parking lots." No and no to those two from experience with my car. "You'll be completely pissed at yourself for getting a heavy clutch in traffic. Your flywheel will be a pain getting used to." my dad's car has a stiffer clutch and a light flywheel and everyone stalls it the first try, but you get used to it really quickly and it's not an issue. It makes rev matched downshifting easier to boot. I prefer it to my relatively soft stock clutch and heavy flywheel.
I know. We have people on this thread claiming 240 hp from an NA without nitrous. Some others go the distance to bridgeport a 6-port (WTF?) and still others want him to toss his air pump (meaning goodbye to VDI and 5th/6th port). The OP said he has an s5. He needs his air pump to give him useable power.
To the OP, I suggest doing what a few others here have suggested. Read the FAQ section and do searches on reliability mods and enjoy learning about the 7 and save the money that you will waste trying to beef up your NA and put it towards a TII. I have a s5 that is a trouble-free DD and a s4 TII that I can take to events on weekends. Best of both worlds.
To the OP, I suggest doing what a few others here have suggested. Read the FAQ section and do searches on reliability mods and enjoy learning about the 7 and save the money that you will waste trying to beef up your NA and put it towards a TII. I have a s5 that is a trouble-free DD and a s4 TII that I can take to events on weekends. Best of both worlds.
240 hp from a streeport? I haven't seen one yet.
240 hp from a bridgeport? Certainly doable.
240 hp from a p-port? Seen it....loud as hell though.
No nitrous in either of the last two cases.
The simple answer to this question as to a simple next step to add power when you already have an openedup exhaust is to add a piggy back fuel computer and take some fuel out.
10-15 HP for 300 or less and better gas millage to boot.
10-15 HP for 300 or less and better gas millage to boot.
bahhahahhhahahhhahahahaha
I find these kinds of comments really funny...
I have no working A/C, but I've driven in 110F+ Sacramento summers and even hotter 120F+ Vegas summers!
PUSSIES!
-Ted
You do a forum search, as this topic has been covered before.
You already have most everything. You could get a cone intake and put a cold air box around it to get maybe 2-3 HP. But a cone intake + no cold air box = less power than stock intake. You could get 2-3 HP from Royal Purple oil. For comparision your exhaust probably gave you 25HP. You can shave off some weight and/or get a lightened flywheel to go faster without more horsepower. But basically you can't get much unless you do something major & expensive like: a standalone ECU, street port, turbo swap or NOS.
(and other people mentioned headers too, I think)
On a fuel injected RX-7, RB headers plus cat replacement don't add any significant power compared to cat replacement only. It says right on their website. Jeebus people. And theirs are probably the good ones. Next time someone suggests headers I want to see their own personal before/after dyno sheets, with nothing different between the two sheets except the headers. And yeah, I've seen a poorly photoshopped dyno sheets from a certain unnamed vendor. The new dyno is just a scaled up version of the old dyno. The static is the same on both dynos, or in some places the static is shifted or mirrored. Plus a real dyno would show different gains at different rpms, especially if headers followed the harmonics BS that they talk about. Go look at one of them yourself and see.
You already have most everything. You could get a cone intake and put a cold air box around it to get maybe 2-3 HP. But a cone intake + no cold air box = less power than stock intake. You could get 2-3 HP from Royal Purple oil. For comparision your exhaust probably gave you 25HP. You can shave off some weight and/or get a lightened flywheel to go faster without more horsepower. But basically you can't get much unless you do something major & expensive like: a standalone ECU, street port, turbo swap or NOS.
(and other people mentioned headers too, I think)
On a fuel injected RX-7, RB headers plus cat replacement don't add any significant power compared to cat replacement only. It says right on their website. Jeebus people. And theirs are probably the good ones. Next time someone suggests headers I want to see their own personal before/after dyno sheets, with nothing different between the two sheets except the headers. And yeah, I've seen a poorly photoshopped dyno sheets from a certain unnamed vendor. The new dyno is just a scaled up version of the old dyno. The static is the same on both dynos, or in some places the static is shifted or mirrored. Plus a real dyno would show different gains at different rpms, especially if headers followed the harmonics BS that they talk about. Go look at one of them yourself and see.
Last edited by ericgrau; Nov 15, 2007 at 02:40 PM.


