Probably gonna get flamed for this but i really dont care. I love the rx7...all aspects..except the engines damn reliability!!!! it enhales gas and breaks down a bunch. If i was to swap some other motor in it...which would take little-to-no modifications? THanks ahead...
Late,
Galen

 

i bet the new renesis would fit just fine.

 

The quick answer is ANY ENGINE WILL FIT. It's the amount of labour you'll be spending to make it fit. I once helped shoehorn a 5.0L in a blown 86... fit just dandy... Except it had to be converted to carb... he didnt have money to complete the project, so its probably sitting in a junk yard somewhere. You'll need to get custom mounts, custom driveshaft, and of course, custom wiring. How skilled is your mechanic? :P

 

you bet wrong, but eh

anything with a CARB that's not a big-block you wouldn't have much trouble swapping.
Other stuff will fit too, these have a reasonably sized engine bay! If you get into EFI things (I'd like to see one with an SR20DET or an FC20.. something!) then you get to build your own wiring harness, find an ecu, etc, etc, etc.. . can be a pain in the ***!

 

6 port 13b and 13BT fit pretty well.
and any engine is gonna inhale gas. I won't comment on the breaking often part

 

people have put all kinds of engines in, mostly v8s
sr20det has been in an FD
a MKIII Supra engine in FC
all sorta of SBCs in all gens.
GN Turbo 6 in FC
I'm sure theres more. Can't remember if people use 5.0's often or not

 

how hard is the MKIII to swap in? many mods or mostly swap? Thanks for all the info!
Late,
Galen

 

how is the rotary not reliable? I have 150,456 miles and counting. Oh and i know my OD reading cuz i keep count for mileage purposes. I am on the original engine. I don't think that an engine that ran for 16 long years and is still running is non-reliable.

 

is urs the TII?
Late,
Galen

 

Oh my mileage is 20MPG with an exhaust and lead foot. How much more can you ask. I have not had any engine problems whatsoever all the things taht went wrong with my car were suppossed to be changed five years prior to when I did the work on them. Like the oil cooler hoses that are supposed to last about 10 years but they went for 15. My 16 year old cats that were not one bit clogged. My pulsation damper that went for 40k miles longer than reccomended. The OMP that was still operational untill I messed up the lines on my own.

 

N/a buddy.

All the TII guys always say that turbo cars are just as reliable as the non turbos as long as you maintain them. Check out the turbo mileage thread. or the N/a. those thread shoulld have some good examples of long lasting TII's.

 

sweet...well thats good then...yea the only main reason i didnt want rotary was the reliability...i dont wanna be crusiing for a week and then waiting 3 weeks for me to drive again cuz something broke! I'll take care of it...good 90 second warmup...probably 2-3min warm down..good oil..etc. If it's good then sweet! Any body changes from the NA to Turbo? I mean wold it be cheaper to by a S5 NA then get a TII hood and swap a Turbo motor in from japan? like the 13BREW or something...thanks again!
Late,
Galen

 

Well I am glad I talked you out of that.


Well I think it would be better to just buy a TII right off since you will have all the neccessary things. Do you have one already or are just looking? YOu are going to have to devote a lot of time and some money to this Rotary beast bro. By no means is it going to be a cheap car but it will be like a fine *** virgin, you will love her and she will love you back. hehe. Well I think you should get the TII if that is what you want and make sure it is in good running condition. The worst thing you could probably do is buy a seven that was not taken care of and it blows up in a month. YOu need to make sure the car is ok before you buy it and then keep up with the very detailed maintenance schedule. Or else you will end up hating the seven.

 

anything wrong with my NA, hood, swap idea? That way the car will be a shitload cheaper...
Late,
Galen

 

well you see the thing is that you will have to change basically all the stuff like the drive train(tranny drive shaft rear end) engine it self( possible to do with the N/a engine but better off with the turbo engine) ECU and other stuff. Besides if you want a high performance turbo car you will end up getting a FMIC and the scoop will not be funtional and you could just keep the N/a hood. But it will actually cost more in the long run Money wise and headache wise. I would say you could be happy with an N/a and then get a TII later on. Kinda like getting your feet wet to see if you can handle the responsability of a rotary and then upgrade to a TII.

Your idea will work but it will be harder.

 

Alright thats it...back to the 240-S15!! Lol..just playing...thanks bro..
Late,
Galen

 

an SRD20 should fit fine in an FC....throw some twin turbos on it it and it'll ha'lll ***!

 

LOL...wow i hope your joking...TT on a 4-banger...
Late,
Galen

 

hey blackrx7 leave those ideas out of his fragil little mind. lol

I just got him back on the ROtary trip bro.

The only engine swaps I would definately tell him to do would be a REW or a Tri-rotor 20B.

 

so whats the difference between the 13B and the 13BREW?
Late,
Galen

 

13B-REW is the TT 13b on the 3rd gen 7. THOSE things like to be unreliable.

 

88´ BMW M3- 4banger

 

I'd like...

Toyota 2JZ
SupraShop stage 4
Motec M4 ECU

Should dyno at 800 to 900hp, be streetable and reliable.

 

An LS1 will fit just nicely. This conversion is crazy check it out http://www.thewrongmotor.com