David Dale

Hello, i have a 91 NA rx7, street port

Well i started my rebuild a while back and i'm at the point where i'm almost ready to put it back together. I just ordered an Atkins master rebuild kit and RA classic 2mm seals. I also added new oil control springs and i am planning on getting a new clutch. But i have a few questions:

1. are there any other parts that NEED to be replaced other than the parts included in the rebuild kit?

2. is there anything recommended that i replace or check over while i have the engine out?

3. i'm tired of the stock OMP lines, and my friend has these flexible ones that aren't made of metal but are made of some kind of dense form or fabric of some sort. do you know where i could find these?

4. I have a good sized street port that i just had done, do i need a turbo AFM now? And my car came with a fuel controller, could i put this to any good use and if so how?

I figured after finding no specific info on this stuff that i'd just go ahead and post a thread

Gabriel82

iTrader: (8)

Check if the rotor bearings are good, make sure they don't show sign of super wear. By this i mean see if they are showing brown spots. Same thing goes for the main bearings. Check the stationary gears as well. Other than that your golden. You might want to consider the pineapple racing intake inserts. Good luck with your NA

alexdimen

iTrader: (13)

-don't really need RA seals. would have gone atkins.
-if the stock OMP lines aren't broken or brittle leave them alone, but there is an archived thread on rebuilding them on the cheap
-pre-mix
-don't use a gasket on your oil pan, use only permatex right stuff, tightening the pan and mounts at one time
-using a digital bore micrometer I have found bearings to be perfectly in spec even with the babbit coating worn in places (brass showing). you also add the risk of spinning a bearing when you replace them.
-check coolant seal groove lips very well for corrosion, there is one place where they are particularly thin
-pilot bearing/seal
-they may already be in the kit, but replacing the thrust bearings usually eliminates the need to adjust end play.
-do yourself a favor and get some non-solvent hylomar instead of what is included, much easier to work with
-check rotor housing to iron sealing surfaces for pits and scrape out/fill/sand with jb weld

Howru

iTrader: (25)

1. The Master kit and springs should be all you need, unless something else is out of spec. Get the flywheel resurfaced while it's off. Got a throwout bearing and pilot bearing and seal with the clutch? Check your thermostat neck for cracks.

2. Take a hose and blast the radiator and oil cooler from the engine side and get all the gunk/debris you can out of the fins. If you can remove them from the car, even better.

3. Your friend's lines might be plastic with a fabric sleeve. I've followed the writeup in the archive and rebuilt mine for <$40. Just make sure they don't rub on anything, like the fan belt, or you'll end up rebuilding the line(s) again.

4. No need for a TII AFM. What kind of fuel controller and what kind of street port (Pinapple/Atkin/Mazdatrix/Self)?

Good luck with the build!

David Dale

I forgot to mention that i bought new bearings (sorry), is there anything i can do to reduce the risk of spinning a bearing? I looked over the side housings before but i'll check 'em out again just to be sure they are fine. yeah the thrust bearings come with the master rebuild kit. I do need to go put some JB weld on a few spots on the housing (thanks for reminding me). And i'll make sure to go check out that non-solvent hydromar.

I can't decide if i want to run premix right away for my break in or if i should leave the omp connected...because shortly after i rebuild my engine i have to smog it . but either way i will premix after smog i just don't know if premix will hurt emissions any sizable amount...

I'm not sure if the clutch kit comes with the pilot bearing and seal but i'll check it out. never thought about cleaning the radiator/oil cooler fins i'll be sure to go do that.

i have an apexi fuel controller, the original port job was made bigger by ben up in Yuba city, i don't know his method for porting but i'll post a pic as soon as i get back from school.

thanks for the info guys!

David Dale

got a side housing pic for y'all

i wanted to replace the bearings because of a screeching noise i get when i rev to higher rpms while driving (or when i step on the gas abruptly) so i wanted to replace them just to be sure it wasn't them. (on top of that i just found a little pit on my e-shaft that is worrying me) is there anything i can do to try to lower the risk of spinning a bearing?

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

got a picture of the e-shaft?