What the eff, Do i really need a koyo!
#26
Brappidy Brap
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Ok, so i went out and started the car. The temp stayed at 185 and it was glorious, so i then i revved it a couple times and all went to ****. I revved it and then the temp started to raise, so i checked the rad and one side was cool and one side was burning hot. SO im guessing the rad is clogged, what is the best way to unclog this evil radiator??
Does it matter that im getting my signal from the Motor where the stock temp sensor is and not from the rad??
Does it matter that im getting my signal from the Motor where the stock temp sensor is and not from the rad??
#27
whats going on?
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Ok, so i went out and started the car. The temp stayed at 185 and it was glorious, so i then i revved it a couple times and all went to ****. I revved it and then the temp started to raise, so i checked the rad and one side was cool and one side was burning hot. SO im guessing the rad is clogged, what is the best way to unclog this evil radiator??
Does it matter that im getting my signal from the Motor where the stock temp sensor is and not from the rad??
Does it matter that im getting my signal from the Motor where the stock temp sensor is and not from the rad??
#32
Brappidy Brap
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using the stock temp sensor in the block im getting readings of up to 250! is that an ok temp for block heat opposed to temp in the radiator?
I can hook the sensor up right on top of the rad where the other sensor is, would that work?
I can hook the sensor up right on top of the rad where the other sensor is, would that work?
#34
The Doctor
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I may have passed my solution in the thread but I was having the exact same problem. My water pump wasn't leaking from the weep hole, but I was having crazy driving temps (220-260 depending on how hot it was outside) and I could never figure out why. Changed my rad 2 times, once with a another n/a rad, and again with a no-name aftermarket one. Both times never changed temps.
I finally ended up replacing my water pump one day when it seized and from that point on, the car never came above 185.
Never have used a undertray on my car.
I finally ended up replacing my water pump one day when it seized and from that point on, the car never came above 185.
Never have used a undertray on my car.
#36
The Doctor
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I was just thinking that. On that note, it is also possible to overtighten the belt putting too much pressure on the water pump. That's how I broke my old water pump and caused it to seize. I kept tightening and tightening it thinking it was loose.
#39
Too old for this
Of course, I later found out that the coolant seals were also going bad, but the new water pump gave me a couple extra thousand miles before I had to rebuild.
#42
Brappidy Brap
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hypertek i was just reading that lol. Im running a gilmer belt setup so slipping isnt an issue, also i didnt over tighten the belt, i made sure of that. Im working on hooking up the stock temp sensor to get a general idea until i pop the autometer sensor in. Im hoping the gauge has been off this entire time and im just a dumbass, that would be glorious
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i had that same stupid fan. with my front mount on it got hot a lot. went to the junk yard and got a fan from a escort with a shroud and never had a problem ever again. my autometer gauge stayed right at 180 even on a hot day. i had a 3 row innercooler also.
#44
Brappidy Brap
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i ordered the fitting to put my sensor in the stock location and im picking it up in about 2 hrs. Hopefully the car was never overheating, but it def seems like its running hot to me. But so far this is what i have to do:
Need shroud
Need Ducting
Possibly better fan(s)
Possibly new radiator
Need shroud
Need Ducting
Possibly better fan(s)
Possibly new radiator
#45
version 2.0
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A good list.
Dont worry too much, despite contrary belief it really takes quite a bit of heat to cook these motors..... I've seen a rotary reading 220 - 240 degrees throughout an entire race day, in fact it even ran out of coolant.... COMPLETELY! Still kept going, running strong.
Still, heat is the enemy, and even though I myself have been lucky a number of times, others havent been. Get the temps down! Good luck!
Dont worry too much, despite contrary belief it really takes quite a bit of heat to cook these motors..... I've seen a rotary reading 220 - 240 degrees throughout an entire race day, in fact it even ran out of coolant.... COMPLETELY! Still kept going, running strong.
Still, heat is the enemy, and even though I myself have been lucky a number of times, others havent been. Get the temps down! Good luck!
#46
Brappidy Brap
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ok, UPDATE!!
I ran into so many problems trying to get the autometer sensor in the block so i just tapped into the upper rad hose. Its reading 155 idling for about 10 mins, i havnt driven it yet but im going out right after this. Im also going to pick up another 10" fan for freeee so that should help a little bit.
After everything i believe the stock cooling system will work but im going to buy a fluidyne anyway. i have wayyy too much money into the car to chance some freak overheating accident.
Thanks guys for all ur help, i wouldnt have gotten it done without u
I ran into so many problems trying to get the autometer sensor in the block so i just tapped into the upper rad hose. Its reading 155 idling for about 10 mins, i havnt driven it yet but im going out right after this. Im also going to pick up another 10" fan for freeee so that should help a little bit.
After everything i believe the stock cooling system will work but im going to buy a fluidyne anyway. i have wayyy too much money into the car to chance some freak overheating accident.
Thanks guys for all ur help, i wouldnt have gotten it done without u
#47
Slowpoke
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ok, UPDATE!!
I ran into so many problems trying to get the autometer sensor in the block so i just tapped into the upper rad hose. Its reading 155 idling for about 10 mins, i havnt driven it yet but im going out right after this. Im also going to pick up another 10" fan for freeee so that should help a little bit.
After everything i believe the stock cooling system will work but im going to buy a fluidyne anyway. i have wayyy too much money into the car to chance some freak overheating accident.
Thanks guys for all ur help, i wouldnt have gotten it done without u
I ran into so many problems trying to get the autometer sensor in the block so i just tapped into the upper rad hose. Its reading 155 idling for about 10 mins, i havnt driven it yet but im going out right after this. Im also going to pick up another 10" fan for freeee so that should help a little bit.
After everything i believe the stock cooling system will work but im going to buy a fluidyne anyway. i have wayyy too much money into the car to chance some freak overheating accident.
Thanks guys for all ur help, i wouldnt have gotten it done without u
#48
Brappidy Brap
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ok, i just took the sensor out to make the hole nicer and i dropped it. i put it back in and now im getting no reading, what the hell? are the sensors uber sensative or something??
#49
Slowpoke
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heres my setup
koyo copper rad, pontiac fiero fan, vdo temp gauge installed in the water jacket, derale adjustable fan control. http://i37.tinypic.com/10cjjwg.jpg
The temp gauge probe location going to be the most accurate, than i got the efan thermostat probe in the rad hose . Just takes trial and error to set the adjustable thermostat control onto a nice number since the degrees are going to vary between the 2.
Im seeing some hotter temps during the summer, so im too trying to fine tune it, i also dont have the bottom underpanel/ducting.
koyo copper rad, pontiac fiero fan, vdo temp gauge installed in the water jacket, derale adjustable fan control. http://i37.tinypic.com/10cjjwg.jpg
The temp gauge probe location going to be the most accurate, than i got the efan thermostat probe in the rad hose . Just takes trial and error to set the adjustable thermostat control onto a nice number since the degrees are going to vary between the 2.
Im seeing some hotter temps during the summer, so im too trying to fine tune it, i also dont have the bottom underpanel/ducting.