I cannot figure out why my car is getting so damn hot. Its an S5 13bt with a bunch of mods.

Prob:
When the car idles and drives it gets to dangerous temps.


So i checked the thermostat and it was fine
Then changed the rad to a Copper t2 rad>didnt work
Did waterwetter with water and coolant >didnt work
Then i hollowed out the old thermostat in
a sad attempt to fix the problem > Didnt work


The only thing i can think of is either a new rad or the E-fan isnt doing its job. Now, i have no shroud but could having no shroud really cause the heat probs while im driving?? I checked for air in the system but im going to check again tomorrow but im really at wits end here and i need some help please!.

 

Chevy..
go and get a Mercury Villager Fan(1995 or so .about 50 bucks at a wrecker)
IT sucks Great CFM's and has a shroud that will Cover the whole Rad.,Set it on HI and I can pretty well promise you all your Woes will go away!

 

THANK U, im going to do that first thing tomorrow morning, lol

 

What fan do you have? CFM's?


On my old streetported stock turbo setup, I ran the stock rad with a 3000 CFM 16" e-fan. No shroud. Temps were fine, would creep up around 200 when I'd push it really hard.

 

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/running-hot-any-ideas-917615/

Maybe some day you guys will actually search and instead of having 4 thousand threads on one subject we will have one that e-1 has added to? :-)

 

exactly what temps are you seeing and how are you measuring these temps?

 

seeing 240 cruising at night when its kinda cool outside. I think i may be able to fix it tho, how do u think a dual fan setup from a sentra would work??

 

At cruising speeds your E-fan or Fan clutch is not a factor.

So with that in mind either your radiator is blocked and not flowing properly or your T-stat is defective or your gauge is reading incorrectly.

Do your self a favor and get a OEM thermostat if you are running a after market one. Also if the radiator cap is old replace that as well.

 

no shroud or underpan could be the problem maybe u have shitty hoses. or u have a seal leak.

 

Ok, im gonna go pick up a cap, im still gonna throw the dual fans on and i just bought a 185 thermostat. if the problem persists i guess its time for a radiator .

 

how old is the water pump? The impeller in the pump can corrode and it will not pump the coolant but appear to be functioning.
If the pump is of unknown age change it.

 

Whats the details on the fans your getting? How much air do they move? Instead of doing a bunch of work for nothing, research a good fan to use(mr2/pontiac 6000/ taurus/ etc.

Doesn't seem like a little 4 cylinder fan would move enough air...

 

post a picture of your rad/efan and whatever your using to control it please.

 

ok ill go get a pic real quick. Its a single e-fan (unknown brand) and the Dual fan controller from pepboys for $39 (actually works really good), of coarse tho i only have a single fan setup right now.

 

 

you really need a shroud on that.
Even stick the stock shroud on there would help.
See if the Stock shroud alone will fit OVER the fan.After all it is built to mount on the rad,and wouldn't take any time at all to put on.See if it helps you,.(it'd be Free wouldn't it,if you still have it?).

 

Is the underpan on still?

Have you done a cooling system pressure check?

 

you have no shroud on that thing. no wonder its overheating.

 

A shroud isn't going to do anything if the fan is that weak.

That looks like the ****-poor fans from autozone that doesn't move **** for air.


Buy a known high flowing fan, and report back.

 

looks like the same one that i use to have..i had an aftermarket defi coolant temp gauge and mine stayed around 180 to 195 and never went above that...and that was in the texas summer!!

 

You can clean up your wiring a little better, wrap the ones that run along together with electrical tape for a neater appearance.

Take the green wire on your fan controller and wire it up to the same source as the ignition wire.. That should run it all the time when the ignition is on, and see if that changes anything.

I think you can clean this up, but also consider getting a different efan. A couple bucks junkyard hunting. Get a good one and you can make some simple brackets for it so you dont have any poking thru the radiator mickeymouse stuff going on.

Oh yeah, those fan controllers get screwed up if you ever get water on it btw.

 

Ya the wiring all throughout the engine bay is taped up except that, i wanted to go t a dual fan setup at the time so i left it out. The controller is also mounted away from water so hopefully it will never get wet.

Ok, im gonna make a fan shroud and buy a new rad cap and hopefully life will be easier. If the shroud doesnt work im gonna buy a dual fan setup.

 

One large fan is more efficient than two smaller ones.
When you make the shroud keep in mind that the further the fan is spaced from the rad, the better it works.

 

Got ya, im going to buy the sheet metal now

 

BTW it is a common misconception that you wont overheat at cruising speed with the stock fan and no shroud. Just because you have some slight positive flow. The way the cooling air intake is layed out you still need a fan shroud to provide enough flow.

1. The oil cooler sees most of the direct flow.
2. The radiator has no real good intake shrouding.

Rad Mounted E-fan or shrouded stock fan is the only way to get enough airflow through the radiator.