Ok, so i went out and started the car. The temp stayed at 185 and it was glorious, so i then i revved it a couple times and all went to ****. I revved it and then the temp started to raise, so i checked the rad and one side was cool and one side was burning hot. SO im guessing the rad is clogged, what is the best way to unclog this evil radiator??


Does it matter that im getting my signal from the Motor where the stock temp sensor is and not from the rad??

 

what "signal"?

 

temp signal to my autometer gauge. Im not using the probe that came with the gauge im using the factory probe.

 

Hahahaha.... there's your problem.... you cant use the stock sensor with an aftermarket gauge, it won't read correctly. Get the right probe, install it correctly. Un-clog your radiator, or get a new one and finally, put a freakin shroud over your fan.

 

Really, where should i put the autometer probe?? and ya ya im gettin a shroud lol

 

just connect the stock gauge back for now, you will have to tap the water pump housing, thermostat housing ( if you have a s4 ), or radiator hose to use the autometer probe

 

using the stock temp sensor in the block im getting readings of up to 250! is that an ok temp for block heat opposed to temp in the radiator?

I can hook the sensor up right on top of the rad where the other sensor is, would that work?

 

stock temp sensor and stock gauge is showing 250?

 

I may have passed my solution in the thread but I was having the exact same problem. My water pump wasn't leaking from the weep hole, but I was having crazy driving temps (220-260 depending on how hot it was outside) and I could never figure out why. Changed my rad 2 times, once with a another n/a rad, and again with a no-name aftermarket one. Both times never changed temps.

I finally ended up replacing my water pump one day when it seized and from that point on, the car never came above 185.

Never have used a undertray on my car.

 

could also be slipping belts too

 

I was just thinking that. On that note, it is also possible to overtighten the belt putting too much pressure on the water pump. That's how I broke my old water pump and caused it to seize. I kept tightening and tightening it thinking it was loose.

 

the aftermarket temp gauge should be tapped as close to the stock sensor on the waterpump housing.

 

people think that just because the pump is not leaking from the weep hole that it has to be good, not true at all.
It can corrode. I myself went crazy with another car, everything changed and nothing got better. Pump impeller was corroded.

 

+1 Had the same problem.

Of course, I later found out that the coolant seals were also going bad, but the new water pump gave me a couple extra thousand miles before I had to rebuild.

 

You can also get a brass Tee fitting and tee into the BAC line for a easy aftermarket temp gauge install. I went this route with my S4 and havent had any problems. 15k miles.

 

check this out
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/wow-even-crappy-radiator-ducting-makes-huge-difference-917928/

 

hypertek i was just reading that lol. Im running a gilmer belt setup so slipping isnt an issue, also i didnt over tighten the belt, i made sure of that. Im working on hooking up the stock temp sensor to get a general idea until i pop the autometer sensor in. Im hoping the gauge has been off this entire time and im just a dumbass, that would be glorious

 

i had that same stupid fan. with my front mount on it got hot a lot. went to the junk yard and got a fan from a escort with a shroud and never had a problem ever again. my autometer gauge stayed right at 180 even on a hot day. i had a 3 row innercooler also.

 

i ordered the fitting to put my sensor in the stock location and im picking it up in about 2 hrs. Hopefully the car was never overheating, but it def seems like its running hot to me. But so far this is what i have to do:

Need shroud
Need Ducting
Possibly better fan(s)
Possibly new radiator

 

A good list.

Dont worry too much, despite contrary belief it really takes quite a bit of heat to cook these motors..... I've seen a rotary reading 220 - 240 degrees throughout an entire race day, in fact it even ran out of coolant.... COMPLETELY! Still kept going, running strong.

Still, heat is the enemy, and even though I myself have been lucky a number of times, others havent been. Get the temps down! Good luck!

 

ok, UPDATE!!

I ran into so many problems trying to get the autometer sensor in the block so i just tapped into the upper rad hose. Its reading 155 idling for about 10 mins, i havnt driven it yet but im going out right after this. Im also going to pick up another 10" fan for freeee so that should help a little bit.

After everything i believe the stock cooling system will work but im going to buy a fluidyne anyway. i have wayyy too much money into the car to chance some freak overheating accident.

Thanks guys for all ur help, i wouldnt have gotten it done without u

 

if its at 155 in the upper rad hose, the thermostat hasnt opened yet. so the water in that rad hose will be cooler.

 

ok, i just took the sensor out to make the hole nicer and i dropped it. i put it back in and now im getting no reading, what the hell? are the sensors uber sensative or something??

 

heres my setup
koyo copper rad, pontiac fiero fan, vdo temp gauge installed in the water jacket, derale adjustable fan control. http://i37.tinypic.com/10cjjwg.jpg

The temp gauge probe location going to be the most accurate, than i got the efan thermostat probe in the rad hose . Just takes trial and error to set the adjustable thermostat control onto a nice number since the degrees are going to vary between the 2.

Im seeing some hotter temps during the summer, so im too trying to fine tune it, i also dont have the bottom underpanel/ducting.

 

ok now what did u do for the temp sesnsor, did u just drill through the existing hole until it was all the way through??