Hey guys I just got my car back on the road and it is running hot. It isn't overheating just hotter than I'd like. The readout on my pda was 222 at it's highest. My current setup as far as cooling related systems is Koyo rad, e-fan, and front mount. I have a stock bumper cover that is all hacked to hell to try to get the most possible airflow. Engine is streetported and I'm only running 10lbs at the moment. If anyone has any ideas on how to fix this issue I would greatly appreciate hearing them.

 

Got the stock plastic belly pan on there? Some people say it doesn't matter, but then other people say it helps direct air through the radiator and you'll run hot without it. Never really got a straight answer on that, but it can't hurt.

 

All you have to do is search with the term "Overheating" as it has been covered a million times as to the possible causes.

Use the advanced search and check the option of just seeing the threads with at least 8 posts or more to weed out the hundreds of thread where we have told members to do what I am asking you to do. :-)

Go through the list of things that are listed in a thread that are associated with a engine overheating or running hot and you will find the answer.

 

The optimal size for the air inlet is about 1/4 the square inches of the heat exchanger core. If you increased the inlet to more than 1/3 the area then that could be one of the reasons for the reduced cooling if it mostly happens when the car is moving. I hope you didn't remove the actual bumper.

Other possible reasons:
- Wrong thermostat
- Too much coolant in the coolant/water mix
- Corrosion, deposits, or Stop Leak type product in the cooling system
- Aftermarket temp gauge sender located in the wrong position
- Electric fan is not shutting off when the car is moving
- Oil cooler system is not working properly, causing the cooling system to endure an increased thermal load

Possible reasons if your engine is hot only when the car is stopped:
- Electric fan is too small and/or not ducted
- Intercooler core fin count is too high or core is too thick (Should be 3.5" max for a street car)
- Reduction drive pulleys are keeping the water pump from operating at the correct rate during low engine rpm

FYI your engine should not operate past 185F under normal conditions. It is probably getting damaged at 222F, especially if it reaches that temperature rapidly.

 

im gonna guess your efan isnt coming on.. check wiring

 

It doesn't get hot very rapidly. It just kind of crawls its way up the gauge as I drive it on a longer trip. I have Rtek 2.1 which gives me a temp readout and the stock gauge which has never gone above 3/4. The car had no bumper core on it when I bought it and the holes helped a little bit. The e-fan is working fine as it is wired on a toggle switch. There is no clutch fan or stock fan shroud. I think I may just go get a new thermostat and flush the coolant and replace and see what happens from there.

 

which efan do you have? it should have a shroud. also it is summer so the hot weather could also affect it.

I just did rad flush, new water/coolant, new mazda thermostat, and seeing 185-190 around town, up to 200 highway at the momment with the fiero fan running in this hot cali weather.

 

yea make sure your plastic shroud is on the car, I had mine off and it was running ok but as soon as summer hit I had to put it back on just so it would not over heat just going down the road