Hey everybody, I bought a Koyorad radiator and was wondering what efan and shroud you all are using? Mainly just wondering what shroud you all are using with this radiator as there are no mounting points or bolt holes to mount a shroud. Are you all possibly not using a shroud and just slapping an efan on the back by itself??

 

There are at least two very large threads detailing everything you just asked extensively, including pictures. Please use the search function.

Depending on what year the posts were made depends on what the flavor of the year was for fans. I use the Villager fan which fits perfectly. Others like the Mighty Mark VIII, some Volvo, the choices are plentiful.

Whatever you do just don't slap a fan on with no shroud or use one of those junky Black Magic fans (you will undoubtably have at least one guy claim his works "just fine").

 

I thought Koyos used Mazda OEM S5 brackets, which have all sorts of shroud mount options.

 

I also use the Villager fan. The only thing you have to do is make room for radiator hoses.

 

I know there are write ups for the Taurus fan, and I've heard of the Black Magic fans. But I wasn't sure if there was something more specific, more top shelf for the Koyorads... I did discover that I'm supposed to take the mounts off the old factory radiator and trans plant them onto the Koyorad. Thanks for the info on the villager fan, I'll look into it.

 

Loved this fan.Great power and easy to fab up.
Yes,Stock mounts off the old rad are needed to install the new Koyo.
You may run into Height/fitment issues if you use a different series to car mount on the rad but that can quickly be over come by repositioning the mounting holes for the rad to the bracket.
I forget what went on what,but just a simple drill job was all that was needed to fix it.

 

maybe he means hows to use the factory temp switch to turn on the fan? i know there is a write up on that

 

I've got it all figured out guys, thanks for the help.

 

Fan out of a ford taurus.

 

I used a Villager but wld suggest the stock fan shroud and a new fan clutch. Wld cost you the same or less than an electric setup and fewer(only 1) possible point of failure. Plus, you'd be hard pressed to find an efan/fan shroud setup that'll provide as much cooling as the stock setup.

 

Mazdatrix sells the fan clutch for $250 and you can set up an efan for much less.
There are any number of OEM fans that can easily cool as well as the stock fan (and I would assert, better).

 

Recently I made my own shroud out of fiberglass for the 10th Anny TII. It is designed to accept both the Vulvo 2-speed fan and a single speed 16" Hayden fan. The fan stands upright similar to the stock fan. The tool tray aspect is restored. I can remove both the fan and the shroud in less than 30 seconds to access and work on the front of the engine bay.

Superior airflow path has made the Volva fan unnecessary for cooling and A/C for two Texas summers.

 

Well, aren't you the Martha Stewart of Mazdas.

 

I actually made a shroud out of diamond plate recently for mine, copied another design I found online and just make my own measurements. I'll post pics up later if I remember to do so.

 

You know you want one.

I prefer a "Red Green " reference, fwiw.

 

In the case of a stock hood, your solution is probably the best compromise possible- the superior control of the efan coupled with the great stock shroud design. The more common "fan flat on the radiator" setup would work better with an extractor vent hood.


Then you should have used more duct tape.

 

I still have the mold.

 

how does it work

 

It works just fine. The radiator is a CRX racing dual-pass. The Hayden fan is adequate for both cooling and A/C in the last two Texas summers. I believe that the fan is more effective because

A).it pulls uniformly across the entire face of the radiator and
B). it exhausts toward the engine mimicking the air path of the oem fan.

The upward angle and furious turbulence of my various e-fans (Taurus, Villager, and Mighty Mark VIII) have destroyed the surface of the hood insulation on my 90Vert. That indicates lots of wasted energy and poor airflow.

The shroud and fan is attached with one 6mm bolt to a tab on top of the radiator (seen in the first picture). Pull the bolt, unplug the fan, pull the shroud and fan together.

Additionally, there is room on top of the shroud for a 12" crescent wrench, a 4# hammer and a medium size package of zip ties...all i need for most maintenance tasks.






I just realized maybe you meant how does the mold work?

I made the mold out of particle board using a brad stapler.



Cover the wood with saran wrap.



Staple jersey (tshirt) cloth over the mold.



See that line on the jersey? Staple a very thin piece of wood to pull the jersey down flat to that line. That assures the fan mounting surface is flat.
Saturate jersey with resin.
Lay a layer of glass into the wet jersey cloth. Wrap it over the base all the way to the edge.
Saturate the glass with resin.
Allow the resin to set up to tack layer, then lay another layer of resin, cloth resin.
Let it cure for 24 hours.
The saran wrap acts as a mold release layer. The whole thing will then pop right off the mold.
Trim the edges clean and straight
I then used adhesive door edge guard along all the trimmed edges where it touches the radiator face.

 

Great work Jack, I've thought of doing the same thing. Fiberglass resin is so easy to work with. I used it and fell in love while make a subwoofer enclosure in the unused space under the vert rear cover.

Future plans are to make a fiberglass and sheetmetal intake box and possibly a fan shroud. But that's all down the road after FINALLY getting my engine rebuilt

 

I meant how is the shroud performing

I kind of know my way around fiberglass its what i do everyday lol

 

I know that, but I answered both questions in case my methods were too primitive for you.

 

I have a koyorad in my fc. Do i absolutely need the efan?

 

No, assuming your thermoclutch is in good shape, you'll be fine.

Efans offer better control over cooling and provide a minor (typically, undetectable) performance increase.