The reason I ask is the only way I can get my car to start and idle is with the AFM unplugged and jumper the yellow fuel pump plug. With the AFM plugged in, my car starts, revs to about 900rpm and stalls. I'm just trying to get my car to run again.

 

have you checked to see if the afm is within spec?

 

thats bad, try it - I dont think the car will rev over 3K with it unplugged...it puts the car in limp mode I believe. find the real problem or try another AFM

 

My car would not stay started with the AFM unplugged.

 

Sounds like that stupid hose that goes to the BAC came unhooked. Check it before you do anything.

 

sounds like your afm is bad, i changed my thermostat out and bumped the pipe lose and my car would rund as long as i kept my foot on the accelerator other than that it will start up and then die out

 

thats exactly what that BAC hose does

 

check afm, and the hose connecting to the intake duck, If a hose is lose from the intake duck.. the engine will suck in unmetered air. Causing it to run like that.

It can also be a big vac leak.

 

It actually holds an idle with the AFM removed? AFAIK that's impossible...

Does it run with both the AFM plugged in and the fuel pump plug jumpered, but not if you unplug the jumper wire? If so you have a bad fuel cut safety switch inside the AFM. Swap in another AFM.

 

yeah, according to the FSM its fine

 

ive had the uim off and back on between this, cars been down for 4 months. and the bac is all hooked up good and stuffs

 

afm checked out ok, and the tid is fine and clamped tight.

 

it holds a really crappy idle, like 1k solid but after about a minute it dies... and if you touch the gas it dies.

it doesnt run with the afm plugged in and the plug jumpered. it just wont run with the afm plugged in regardless.

 

... you just made 4 posts in 5 minutes man.

I vote for vac. leak

 

yeah im a post ***** lol, i was just answering all the people.


there is like no vac leaks that i can find

 

Any second opinions on that my afm might be toast?

 

my car wouldnt even start when i forgot to plug in the afm one time i think its a safe bet you're gona have a working one in place by one means or an other. ecu has to have it to compute fuel tables.

 

yeah but people say they can rev their cars up to like 3k with the afm unplugged, i cant even touch the throttle.. well barley

 

maybe. but a weak 3k is hardly functional. can barely get down the block with that. let alone having it cut out on you if you go to high.

 

aight, well would anyone safely say that my afm might be the culprit here? i dont really wanna be wasting 50 bucks on a new one if i dont have to, money is tight around here =/

 

My friend had the exact same problem with his 88 camero as you're describing.It ended up being the MAF. He described it EXACTLY the same way you are. Granted his is American w/hot wire & yours is Japaneese w/vein type, but I'de guess the AFM. & I wouldn't think it to be IMPOSSIBLE for us to run without the AFM. We also have MAP's, but definatley run like crap!

 

Allright, I'm getting pretty desperate so I think I might just bite the bullet and buy a new AFM.

 

check the parts section on the forum, you might find a good used one for cheap

 

Yeah that's what immma do.

 

You can verify the proper operation of your MAF with an ohmmeter. The FSM specifies the fully open and fully closed resistances. Check that you have those resistances and also as you move the flapper, the resistance should follow linearly. If it doesn't do that, then your sensor is broken and your ECU will not know how to follow the fuel table. I can't remember the exact resistance values but I seem to remember it should be about 8,000 ohms closed to 800 ohms open.