JagdStealth

Hey guys, I've ran across a TII locally that seems ot be a really good deal and I nwated to get a little input before I go drop some cash on it...

1987 TII
75,000 original miles
All stock

The car hasn't been actively driven in 5 years, but it has been started once every week and driven around the block a bit once a month. The oil has been changed periodically over the time period as well.

The car fires right up with no problems and idles smooth at 1000RPM. I let the car idle for a good 20 minutes with no smoke from the exhaust and the temperature didn't climb at all. There was no smoke under the hood and it seemed to rev and idle fine.

Black paint is very clean and glossy except the fiberglass hood. I think I can wet sand and bring back the hood though.

Interior looks brand new and everything works except for the AM/FM portion of the radio. The radio will turn on, but there is only faint static and no station numbers displayed on the screen. Tape deck works though...

The only problems I found with the car:
1. Holding the gas steady at anything over 1500RPM (not in gear) the RPMs will bounce, the bouncing gets faster the higher up I go.

2. The shifter seems to have some sort of bushing cracked at the base and it is very sloppy and loose.

Other than that it runs and drives very smooth and seems to pull pretty evenly. He's asking far less than bue book value so I think I'm going to pick it up.

Does it sound like a decent deal and what would you pay for a car ilke this?

Rxmfn7

iTrader: (4)

How much does the guy want for it? Before you do anything you should get a compression test done to give you an idea of the condition the engine is in. 1000rpm is a little high of an idle, it should be around 800. That and the rpms boucing a little might just be something small like the TPS sensor needed adjusting. Have you driven it around, did it seem to boost good? The shifter bushings are common problems and very easy and inexpensive to fix. ID think that if everything is in very good shape, up to $3500-$4k would be a reasonable price.

JagdStealth

It jumps up to 2500RPM at start up, then falls off to about 1000 until operating temperature, then it's around 800 and a little bit rough.

I'm planning on a compression test this afternoon before the purcahse and as long as it's just above 80PSI I'm going to pick it up.

It seems to boost good and holds strong, but I'm a newbie at FCs and used to the power of my Stealth, so I don't really know

I'm hoping to open up the exhaust, throw on a spare EBC and AFC I have and see what the car can do.

The car is $2000

Rxmfn7

iTrader: (4)

For $2000 if the body is nice and compression is good definately go for it. Before you do any mods to it be sure to read up on how to mod a turbo2 safely. If you were to just put an exhaust on it and up the boost, its guaranteed that you will blow it up. The 3000rpm startup is normal, its the accelerated warmup system (AWS).

JagdStealth

Compression was 125 on both rotors, so I decided to buy it.

Now I need to replace the plastic bushing on the shifter so it doesn't slap around, and clean/adjust the TPS so I don't have the bouncnig RPMs while I'm driving.

Dan H

Amazing deal you got there. BTW, welcome to the RX7 forum!

J-Ville VR-4

Hey its me from 3si

My friend has an 88T-II I do a lot of work on, so I'm familiar with these cars now too.

Theres a few helpful things I now know that might come in handy for you.
1st of all, you WILL need an FCD since you are planning on modding it.
When doing a compression test on a rotary, you need to pul out the valve on the tester that holds the pressure in the gauge. When you crank the car, watch to see how high the needle peaks for each compression stroke. This way you can see if just one apex seal is bad or not.
If you put turbo-back exhaust on there, you WILL get boost creep! It sucks! My friend cant floor it in 3rd gear or higher for more than 2 seconds or it will go past 12 psi. If you do get full exhaust, you need to port the wastegate or upgrade to at least an S5 turbo, they have a bigger wastegate.
T-II's have 10x more vacuum line BS than our 3/S's do, no joke. Also, theres no nice IAC to control the idle, instead they have the BAC, which sucks *** IMO. I'd definitely suggest an intake pressure test to find intake leaks.
I changed out all the fuel lines on the 88, and the stock fuel clamps are crap. I used them at first, but we had 2 fuel leaks. I bought small hose clamps, they work 100 times better - no leaks, and it never will.
And finally, its going to take a LOT to make it faster than your stealth

JagdStealth

Pull OUT the valve...I see

I just cranked it until it wouldn't go higher using the top plug. that worked up to 125 PSI. The first spike shot up to 90PSI and went up from there.

I tried holding the release button down and cranking it, but it'd only bounce to 20PSI like that...

There is no smoke or leaks and the turbo holds strong. It feels reasonably quick...I just need to get used to how fast it revs.

Thanks for the words of advice, I'll have to re-do the compression test to see what I can get out of it.

I want this car to handle, I'm hoping to get 230-250RWHP out of it and I should be satisfied!

This will only replace the Stealth for a while so I can save up my pennies and dump them into an NSX (I hope)

Ryde _Or_Die

I dunno man. He should only need like 300HP to keep up with his car. Thats intake/exhaust/fuel/and an intercooler with a hybrid. I guess it sounds like a lot when you write it out, lol.

Anyways, you put you stealth on a AWD dyno Jagd?

JagdStealth

No AWD dyno's worth dumping it on around here The few local ones charge a pretty penny. Road Race Engineering wanted $250 for a session...

It did run a 12.4@110.8MPH though last time I was at the track with ~97 octane in there (mixture of 91 and 100).

Pump gas (chitty CA 91) nets me 12.7@108

I'm guessing about 425 crank based on my times and mods vs. other members who have been able to afford the big bucks for dyno time.

The car has open exhaust, intake, fuel upgrades, boost controller, and a clutch. As well as a bunch of suspensino stuff and some incredibly expensive tires

OC_

the shifer sill might be sloppy after you put the new bushings in. dont worry, this is normal. its because of a weak spring in the trans.

JagdStealth

Thanks for the tip!

I'll probably have to buy the stuff from a junk yard, the whole plastic piece on the top is broken and no shift boot!

J-Ville VR-4

At least you have an AWD dyno near you, the closest one to me is in north carolina I think Oh well, theres always the track

I plan on running about the same times as you, considering I have the same mods as you, plus a lightweight flywheel and hella weight reduction. Now I have a brand new clutch, I'm just waiting on the new tranny, I shattered my old one

Oh yeah, and watch out for the 2-3 shift, its tough to hit right sometimes on T-II's, theres something in the tranny that gets you stuck in between 3rd and 5th, its weird.

JagdStealth

I have more fun in thw twisties, and the Stealth just isn't cutting it! It's too heavy and takes a ton of effort to hang with smaller lighter cars, my only hope is that I completely crush them once I can lay on the gas

I'm going to miss that laying on the gas part...