So i got this S5? turbo engine block(what i was told) for a good price with what feels like very good compression from a poor mans compression test.

Consist of:

S5 T2 block? LIM
S4 front cover, water pump, old turbo i had
FD UIM/TB, pullies, alternator
gsl-se 660cc injectors.
Used to have FD twins & haltech on it before i bought it.


<a href="http://s702.photobucket.com/albums/ww27/fc3smazda/?action=view&amp;current=038-1.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i702.photobucket.com/albums/ww27/fc3smazda/038-1.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>


Alright so i know you cant mix pullies because the timing marks will never be right.

Any way of making the proper marks since the engine isnt in the car?
I would like to figure this out before i do anymore work on it.

If you need any specific pictures let me know. - Nick

 

only way of finding TDC is to find a proper set of front hub/pulley match set for an S5 TII. install the correct pulley/hub, align the motor to TDC with the marks, pull the hub off and switch it then stamp the new one with a punch.

only other way that i know of is by aligning the key in the front of the e-shaft to exactly the 9 oclock position in relation to the deck surface of the engine which still will not give you the proper 5/20ATDC marks but will be in between.

 

yeah, i'd pull the front pulley, and align the e shaft to TDC (9 o clock, it should point towards the intake/exhaust side).

then you can put your pulley back on and see where you're at in comparison

 

Thank you!

I guess im going to buy the right front pulley, make the marks then put the fd pulley back on.

 

Yo. WTF is going on with your car!?
I told you not to sell that haltech!
I have 550's if you need...

ALSO! I have the racing beat main pulley. This can be installed for a minute to truly determine TDC. No need to worry about a mismatched pulley and hub. We can pick a weekend if you like and get you sorted out. I did the same with my engine as I was unsure of TDC because I think I mixed the pulley between 2 engines.

 

http://www.racingbeat.com/RX7-1986-1...ng-System.html

So I see in the above site that they sell front main pulleys that fit the year cars 74-92.

Sooooo this main pulley they sell fits ALLLLL those years...............................why, once more, would there be a difference between series four and series five car front pulley???

Think about that for a moment. How can that be? Understand???????

 

The HUB and Pulley. The bolts are offset and they are made for each engine. If you swap a hub with another engine, you're marks could be off.

The racing beat works because it's based on the keyway.

You know that! It was you that came up with the fluid displacement method just in case

 

My car has been sitting forever. I been so busy working nights and sleeping all day so no work ever got done. I recently quit my job and now trying to get the car back on the road. Make it reliable before i swap in this motor.

Im not worried about the haltech, i'll go rtek in the future to meet my needs. I have cleaned/balanced 550 primary's & 660's secondarys with safc for now.

As for the RB hub you have that would be great to use for a minute to get my marks right. The drive from queens may not be worth it though, may just buy a s5 t2 pulley since im sure i can get it cheap.


HOW CAN I BE SURE THIS IS A S5 T2 BLOCK BEFORE I GO BUY A PULLEY?

 

Being a franken-engine, there's almost no way to tell for sure. You can identify the housings and irons, and then if they're S5 TII, assume the internals are too.

Housings: http://www.banzai-racing.com/faq_housings_ID.htm

If the center iron has a tapped knock sensor hole by the oil filler neck, it's S4 TII.

 

Thanks RotaryRocket. I thought i wouldnt be able to figure it out since just about everything on this block has been changed.

 

you can see if the rotors are cast or machined through the lower plug holes to tell you if there are S4 or S5, whether they are n/a or turbo rotors though requires the engine to be disassembled(the pocket depth needs to be measured).