im in the market for a new clutch (while im changing the driveshaft, i might as well ditch the stock clutch too)

i have always used Exedy with great results, but i might want to try something new on the FC.

my car will probably never break 300whp, so lets say i am looking for a clutch to handle up to 300whp.




please vote for the brand of clutch you use, and then post what model it is, and how you feel about the clutch, and how you feel about the brand.

for example: Exedy stage 1, Exedy stage 2, Exedy hyper single..etc..etc..

thanks.

 

centerforce and only because the car came with it but I had to cut the centrifugal weights off it because they through the rotating mass out of balance.

i don't recommend that clutch to anyone on a rotary. had one on my 240sx and it was fine.

 

dude you screwed that clutch by cutting the weights [I]ve ran these clutches in alot of cars up to 700 tq and they handle fine

 

ACT ceramic 4 puck sprung

doesn't overheat and is still perfectly driveable on the street.

 

ACT 4 puck unsprung.

Streetable and can hold 550+ hp and 400+ tq.

 

bullshit, it drives waaaaaay better without them it shook like there was a couple lbs of rotating mass out of balance. My weights or the weight ring they ride on were off/defective, normally its dead center even but my weight ring would move around the pressure plate irregularly.

it was a low end NA one anyways I hope their stage 2 or whatever aren't as crappy.

 

No, more like anyone who buys them screws their car over by a way to light and almost no feel clutch pedal.

 

Most people on this forum, and even many wanna-be performance shops, do not have the technical competence to install a Centerforce Dual Friction clutch properly, as seen by the above post. Therefore, it's not such a great idea if it is not installed by a competent mechanic. I absolutely loved my CFDF, but it was installed by somebody who knew what he was doing.

Exedy supports rotary events and works with the rotary community to enhance their products, so everything else being equal, you may want to consider Exedy.

Clutches are rated by torque, not horsepower. If the torque rating is not listed on the manufacturer's website or in their catalog, you can contact them for this information. Keep in mind that the pressure plate also affects the torque holding capability, which is why you often see matched combos for sale.

Clutches in my cars:
Stock 88 Convertible - OEM clutch
Raced-out 88 Coupe - QuarterMaster 2-disk 5.5" racing clutch
Former lightly-modded street 88 T2 - CFDF
Former 84 IT race car - ACT street disk

 

you were in my car when it was out of balance, now how bad did it shake?

 

bingo, I got the car with the clutch already installed. there were ALOT of problems from the previous owner that I had to fix.

 

i have used nothing but Exedy clutches in all of my cars in the last 10 year's.....looks like ill be sticking with what works. Exedy.


still want to see everyone's opinion though.

 

Yes, the CFDF has a very light feel. This isn't a problem unless you like to build up the muscles in your left leg, or you are trying to keep your girlfriend from driving your car.

You can't blame that on the clutch though. Well, except maybe from the same aspect that I view it, in that the product has a disadvantage if it requires much more skill to install than the other single-disk clutches on the market. However, this is not a factor if the buyer plans on having a good performance shop perform the labor regardless of the clutch selected.

 

I have the df clutch in my 7 drove it today to 8000 rpm not a vibration at all plus i have a 73 firebird with the same clutch on a 12.5/1 compression bb making over 700 flbs i launch it at 3800 and it holds great.You can have the best part in the world and some dumbass will break it or install it wrong and then bash it. Remember tools dont make the mechanic the mechanic makes the tools

 

ACT 6 puck sprung, HD Pressure Plate. Best money I've spent thus far.

My Jeep still has a stiffer clutch pedal.

 

I have the same, works fine for me..
I only installed it because the stock clutch died and my buddy just happened to have it laying around his garage for his rx7, but ended up using another he got. it grabs good and is not heavy at all.

 

I love the ACT street unit for a weak NA...

 

Sorry to the OP for the temporary thread hijack:

Question: I have a CFDF in my n/a Vert and love the feel and grip. I bought the clutch used/low miles. There were very obvious marks indicating that the weights had been run off center. I emailed CF tech support and here is what they said.
I recentered the weights before install, cleaned the fingers with brake solvent, then very very lightly greased the fingers by hand with a lithium grease-just a film. I carefully torqued the pressure plate in a star pattern to the spec'd torque.

The last thing I did before installing the transmission was to recheck the centering of the fingers.

Every once in a while, I imagine that I feel a vibration. My car is very smooth, and the vibration is something new, with the clutch. ( I did mark the driveshaft and the rear yolk to reinstall the same orientation). I kick the clutch and it goes away. I think the engagement is re-centering the weights.

Did I do this install correctly or did I miss something? What is the extra skill or detail that is needed to install these clutches correctly?

I appreciate your help.

 

no I can blame it on the clutch because those damn rings and those weights would eat throw out bearings every other year because of the product defect itself. The ring with the weights on it would throw itself out of balance and would actually hit the t/o bearing so when i removed it, no more vibration and smooth clutch engagement

and like I said I do not recommend them for rotaries but I had one of them on my 240sx (piston engine) that I installed and it worked fine and I know the owner I sold it to and its still fine and is holding more power than I ever had in it.

I'm just sharing you with my personal experiences and its like your all calling me a liar because [sarcasm] the centrifugal weights could never go bad. [sarcasm]

granted the guy I bought it from could have fucked it up but I'm not taking that chance again, I'm just going to buy a different clutch.

 

os giken twin disk clutch

i hate it.

it holds the power, and it came wtih my motor.

 

No, it sucks. Driving around with the CFDF was crap, there was no pedal feel. Sure it gripped just fine, and launched nice, but the feel of it just flat out sucked. I mean it was so light that when a bug crawled on my clutch pedal, the pedal went flying to the floor under the bugs weight.

I would bet that a CFDF would be fine on a clutch designed to handle 450+ ft/lbs because the weights allow you to have a normal clutch feel with high torque holding. But for a stock n/a application, the CFDF sucks.

I know that its my opinion, but its my opinion. I don't know what you mean by building muscles in my left leg. I have pushed in a whole lot more clutch then the OEM clutch and never had a problem.

 

It was quite some time ago, can't say I really remember the shaking. I do remember hearing the TOB noise though.

 

I just got my ACT extreme PP with a performance disc, it's supposed to hold 443 ft/lbs so I think it'll be more than capable for my 300 hp TII

I've heard nothing but good things about ACT from every guy I've talked to who has one.

 

I have a mazdatrix unsprung 6 puck, with a exedy PP..
so far so good.

 

Running an ACT modified street disc (full face) with a heavy duty pressure plate.

Drives like stock, clutch pedal is *slightly* heavier, and has held over 330ft/lbsTQ at the rea wheels to date.

Almost 30,000kms on that clutch and flywheel and its still rocking out.

 

act 6 puck unsprung disc, hd pressure plate. i got it because act has had great reviews and it can hold up to my hp/tq levels...haven't had any problems yet (knock on wood)