What can i do to add FRONT Camber
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Joined: Feb 2002
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From: Tacoma WA
What can i do to add FRONT Camber
I've been reading different information regarding this topic. In some cases I've found that all I need is a set of camber plates, and the rest of the stock hardware will support camber adjustments.
On the other hand, I've heard that the stock upper spring perches will hit the inside of the shock tower before any actual camber can be added.
Which one of these is true?
Is there a camber plate that can be purchased that will allow me to add negative camber in the front with the stock size springs and perches? Who makes it?
If that isn't an option, what can I do to get camber adjustability while I already have KYB AGX springs all around?
On the other hand, I've heard that the stock upper spring perches will hit the inside of the shock tower before any actual camber can be added.
Which one of these is true?
Is there a camber plate that can be purchased that will allow me to add negative camber in the front with the stock size springs and perches? Who makes it?
If that isn't an option, what can I do to get camber adjustability while I already have KYB AGX springs all around?
The FC has a slight bit of camber adjustment built in. If you jack up the car and remove the bolts holding the shock mount in, you can rotate it for almost a full degree of camber! Yeah, not that much.
I'm not aware of any camber plates that will fit with stock springs, as that is the component that will hold you back.
I'm not aware of any camber plates that will fit with stock springs, as that is the component that will hold you back.
You can also rotate the stock strut mount to get a little negative camber - the hole in the middle isn't in the center, it's slightly eccentric.
Here's the old article from '88 when Grassroots Motorsports played with the stock settings -
http://www.clubrx.org/grm88tii/index.htm
You actually could get camber plates to work with stock shocks - might take a little head scratching and maybe a spacer, but no biggie.
And, yes, you can get CRAZY negative camber with camber plates. Been there, done that.
Dale
Here's the old article from '88 when Grassroots Motorsports played with the stock settings -
http://www.clubrx.org/grm88tii/index.htm
You actually could get camber plates to work with stock shocks - might take a little head scratching and maybe a spacer, but no biggie.
And, yes, you can get CRAZY negative camber with camber plates. Been there, done that.
Dale
Here's the pertinent part of the article:
Mazda's RX-7 uses a strut-type independent front suspension with coil springs and stabilizer bar, The only thing this suspension lacked was sufficient camber and caster adjustments for competition. Our first step was to adjust tire front suspension to set as much negative camber and positive caster as possible.
The RX-7 shock absorber's top rubber mounting block is eccentric; by re-positioning it, one can slightly adjust camber and caster. To do this, raise the front of the vehicle and support it with jack stands. Remove the rubber cap on the suspension tower over the shock absorber, and remove the four nuts holding the shock's top mounting block to the suspension tower. The dot indicator is usually pointed toward the inside front of the engine compartment. Turn the mounting block until the dot indicator is pointed to the inside rear of the engine compartment. This will increase caster by 30' to 45', changing it from tire factory setting of 4degrees 40' to about 5degrees 30'.
Next, finger tighten the top shock mounting block nuts. Now, loosen the ball joint to lower control arm bolts and nuts, the knuckle-to-shock absorber bolts and nuts, and the two bolts holding the rear bushing of the front lower control arms. Then pull outward at the bottom of the tire and push in at the top. While you're holding that under light tension, tighten all the bolts and nuts to the following torque values: ball joint to lower arm, 69 to 86 ft-lb; knuckle to shock absorber, 69 to 86 ft lb; rear bushing of the front lower control arms to cross member, 43 to 54 ft-lb; and shock mounting block to suspension tower, 17 to 22 it lb. This process will put all of the factory tolerances in your favor, and give you maximum legal negative camber.
The RX-7 shock absorber's top rubber mounting block is eccentric; by re-positioning it, one can slightly adjust camber and caster. To do this, raise the front of the vehicle and support it with jack stands. Remove the rubber cap on the suspension tower over the shock absorber, and remove the four nuts holding the shock's top mounting block to the suspension tower. The dot indicator is usually pointed toward the inside front of the engine compartment. Turn the mounting block until the dot indicator is pointed to the inside rear of the engine compartment. This will increase caster by 30' to 45', changing it from tire factory setting of 4degrees 40' to about 5degrees 30'.
Next, finger tighten the top shock mounting block nuts. Now, loosen the ball joint to lower control arm bolts and nuts, the knuckle-to-shock absorber bolts and nuts, and the two bolts holding the rear bushing of the front lower control arms. Then pull outward at the bottom of the tire and push in at the top. While you're holding that under light tension, tighten all the bolts and nuts to the following torque values: ball joint to lower arm, 69 to 86 ft-lb; knuckle to shock absorber, 69 to 86 ft lb; rear bushing of the front lower control arms to cross member, 43 to 54 ft-lb; and shock mounting block to suspension tower, 17 to 22 it lb. This process will put all of the factory tolerances in your favor, and give you maximum legal negative camber.
One more option if you're saddled with stock springs. You can get "crash bolts" for the strut to knuckle mounts, that will let you add some neg. camber. Ingalls engineering makes a decent product, theirs is a smaller diameter bolt with an eccentric hump on the shank. It allows you to adjust the camber in a more finely controlled manner by rotating the bolt. And yes, you can double up the effect with adjuster bolts in the top & bottom holes. I've had no ill effects in a couple of years autoxing like this. Just have to watch the tire to spring perch clearanance.
http://www.ingallseng.com/
http://www.ingallseng.com/
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