Wet Paint!!!
Hey Matt. . .
Your picture isn't blurry like mine is.
I'm going to be seeing my engine bay up close and personal tomorrow, so I'm hoping to be amazed. What I'm seeing now vs. what I saw 3 days ago is completely night and day!!
BTW, yours looks fantastic as well!!
Reese
Your picture isn't blurry like mine is.
I'm going to be seeing my engine bay up close and personal tomorrow, so I'm hoping to be amazed. What I'm seeing now vs. what I saw 3 days ago is completely night and day!!BTW, yours looks fantastic as well!!
Reese
very nice.
Here's the latest in my "paint it myself" quest:
paint system - sherwin williams 5th Dimension with Ultra- Fill 2 base coat & G980 etching fillter (plus flex agents for bumpers & fiberglass)
paint gun - statajet 90 with 1.4 nozzel
air compressor - need a good price for 12-14 CFM @ 50PSI compressor
painting supplies - generic air compressor water seperator & oil filter, airgun filter, air micrometer, paint sleeves, etc..
painbooth supplies - 5-10micrometer filters (exhaust & intake), retractable shop curtain, sparkless exhaust fan, charcole mask & filter, scrubs/overalls, etc..
Getting some bodywork done tomorrow for the rusted license plate lip & rear corner panel & door damage
Hopefully mine will be sparking new soon as well.
Still haven't figured out the best way to undercoat the car, especially where you jack it up & it tends to rust.
I though about renting paint booth time, but that wouldn't work as I want to paint the interior, & removable panels (corner panel, trunk, hood, gas cap, etc..). Plus I'll probably end up finding rust or body filler that will take too long to correct at a paint booth.
I saw on a car restoring show how to paint the hard to reach areas with some "squirting hose" solution. Wonder how that works - especially since you can't primer or de-rust those areas.
Here's the latest in my "paint it myself" quest:
paint system - sherwin williams 5th Dimension with Ultra- Fill 2 base coat & G980 etching fillter (plus flex agents for bumpers & fiberglass)
paint gun - statajet 90 with 1.4 nozzel
air compressor - need a good price for 12-14 CFM @ 50PSI compressor
painting supplies - generic air compressor water seperator & oil filter, airgun filter, air micrometer, paint sleeves, etc..
painbooth supplies - 5-10micrometer filters (exhaust & intake), retractable shop curtain, sparkless exhaust fan, charcole mask & filter, scrubs/overalls, etc..
Getting some bodywork done tomorrow for the rusted license plate lip & rear corner panel & door damage
Hopefully mine will be sparking new soon as well.
Still haven't figured out the best way to undercoat the car, especially where you jack it up & it tends to rust.
I though about renting paint booth time, but that wouldn't work as I want to paint the interior, & removable panels (corner panel, trunk, hood, gas cap, etc..). Plus I'll probably end up finding rust or body filler that will take too long to correct at a paint booth.
I saw on a car restoring show how to paint the hard to reach areas with some "squirting hose" solution. Wonder how that works - especially since you can't primer or de-rust those areas.
Last edited by vaughnc; Jan 7, 2003 at 04:03 PM.
Originally posted by vaughnc
very nice.
Here's the latest in my "paint it myself" quest:
paint system - sherwin williams 5th Dimension with Ultra- Fill 2 base coat & G980 etching fillter (plus flex agents for bumpers & fiberglass)
paint gun - statajet 90 with 1.4 nozzel
air compressor - need a good price for 12-14 CFM @ 50PSI compressor
painting supplies - generic air compressor water seperator & oil filter, airgun filter, air micrometer, paint sleeves, etc..
painbooth supplies - 5-10micrometer filters (exhaust & intake), retractable shop curtain, sparkless exhaust fan, charcole mask & filter, scrubs/overalls, etc..
Getting some bodywork done tomorrow for the rusted license plate lip & rear corner panel & door damage
Hopefully mine will be sparking new soon as well.
Still haven't figured out the best way to undercoat the car, especially where you jack it up & it tends to rust.
I though about renting paint booth time, but that wouldn't work as I want to paint the interior, & removable panels (corner panel, trunk, hood, gas cap, etc..). Plus I'll probably end up finding rust or body filler that will take too long to correct at a paint booth.
I saw on a car restoring show how to paint the hard to reach areas with some "squirting hose" solution. Wonder how that works - especially since you can't primer or de-rust those areas.
very nice.
Here's the latest in my "paint it myself" quest:
paint system - sherwin williams 5th Dimension with Ultra- Fill 2 base coat & G980 etching fillter (plus flex agents for bumpers & fiberglass)
paint gun - statajet 90 with 1.4 nozzel
air compressor - need a good price for 12-14 CFM @ 50PSI compressor
painting supplies - generic air compressor water seperator & oil filter, airgun filter, air micrometer, paint sleeves, etc..
painbooth supplies - 5-10micrometer filters (exhaust & intake), retractable shop curtain, sparkless exhaust fan, charcole mask & filter, scrubs/overalls, etc..
Getting some bodywork done tomorrow for the rusted license plate lip & rear corner panel & door damage
Hopefully mine will be sparking new soon as well.
Still haven't figured out the best way to undercoat the car, especially where you jack it up & it tends to rust.
I though about renting paint booth time, but that wouldn't work as I want to paint the interior, & removable panels (corner panel, trunk, hood, gas cap, etc..). Plus I'll probably end up finding rust or body filler that will take too long to correct at a paint booth.
I saw on a car restoring show how to paint the hard to reach areas with some "squirting hose" solution. Wonder how that works - especially since you can't primer or de-rust those areas.
A Satajet 90( not statajet, but im sure that was just a typo
) HVLP gun requires ALOT of air pressure to keep the gun running. You will pretty much need about 110 lbs into the gun at all times to maintain pressure so I would reconsider your air compressor choice.
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Rob XX 7,
It's not HVLP .... although there is a version that's HVLP. Even the high pressure version requires like 10.5 CMF, so I'll need 12-15 CFM compressor for sure. That's a $300-$500 compressor (plus all the addons you'll need).
I'm sure it's not the top paint out there, but lots of shops swear by it .. and sherwin william's website has THE BEST directions on how to prep, paint, & sand.
If you have a favorite that's reasonable priced, let me know. This stuff runs $244.85/gal, and includes the topcoat I believe.
That's not counting the primers, flex agents, metal conditioner/cleaner, etc..
It's not HVLP .... although there is a version that's HVLP. Even the high pressure version requires like 10.5 CMF, so I'll need 12-15 CFM compressor for sure. That's a $300-$500 compressor (plus all the addons you'll need).

I'm sure it's not the top paint out there, but lots of shops swear by it .. and sherwin william's website has THE BEST directions on how to prep, paint, & sand.
If you have a favorite that's reasonable priced, let me know. This stuff runs $244.85/gal, and includes the topcoat I believe.
That's not counting the primers, flex agents, metal conditioner/cleaner, etc..
Last edited by vaughnc; Jan 7, 2003 at 09:24 PM.
i painted a car once. looked good, but rusted out. here's a picture of her. we were trying to start her after two years of sitting in our back yard
Last edited by need-a-t2; Jan 8, 2003 at 12:10 PM.
I though about a turbine compressor for the warm dry air & no oil. But, that's mostly for painting right. You won't want to run your air-powered tools off of it. Plus it's like a minimum of $1000 right.
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PinkRacer
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
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Oct 1, 2015 09:13 AM



Hopefully I'll get a chance to see it in person sometime soon.



