2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Wet Paint!!!

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Old Jan 6, 2003 | 10:00 PM
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Wet Paint!!!

Just got done shooting a 10th AE Engine Bay for a Forum Member:


Last edited by banzaitoyota; Jan 6, 2003 at 10:02 PM.
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Old Jan 6, 2003 | 10:09 PM
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Looks nice.
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Old Jan 6, 2003 | 10:14 PM
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Mines Better

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Old Jan 6, 2003 | 10:26 PM
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Hey Matt. . .

Your picture isn't blurry like mine is. I'm going to be seeing my engine bay up close and personal tomorrow, so I'm hoping to be amazed. What I'm seeing now vs. what I saw 3 days ago is completely night and day!!

BTW, yours looks fantastic as well!!

Reese
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Old Jan 6, 2003 | 11:29 PM
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Reese,
Very pretty! Hopefully I'll get a chance to see it in person sometime soon.
Derek
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Old Jan 7, 2003 | 03:47 PM
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very nice.

Here's the latest in my "paint it myself" quest:

paint system - sherwin williams 5th Dimension with Ultra- Fill 2 base coat & G980 etching fillter (plus flex agents for bumpers & fiberglass)
paint gun - statajet 90 with 1.4 nozzel
air compressor - need a good price for 12-14 CFM @ 50PSI compressor
painting supplies - generic air compressor water seperator & oil filter, airgun filter, air micrometer, paint sleeves, etc..
painbooth supplies - 5-10micrometer filters (exhaust & intake), retractable shop curtain, sparkless exhaust fan, charcole mask & filter, scrubs/overalls, etc..

Getting some bodywork done tomorrow for the rusted license plate lip & rear corner panel & door damage

Hopefully mine will be sparking new soon as well.

Still haven't figured out the best way to undercoat the car, especially where you jack it up & it tends to rust.

I though about renting paint booth time, but that wouldn't work as I want to paint the interior, & removable panels (corner panel, trunk, hood, gas cap, etc..). Plus I'll probably end up finding rust or body filler that will take too long to correct at a paint booth.

I saw on a car restoring show how to paint the hard to reach areas with some "squirting hose" solution. Wonder how that works - especially since you can't primer or de-rust those areas.

Last edited by vaughnc; Jan 7, 2003 at 04:03 PM.
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Old Jan 7, 2003 | 09:15 PM
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Originally posted by vaughnc
very nice.

Here's the latest in my "paint it myself" quest:

paint system - sherwin williams 5th Dimension with Ultra- Fill 2 base coat & G980 etching fillter (plus flex agents for bumpers & fiberglass)
paint gun - statajet 90 with 1.4 nozzel
air compressor - need a good price for 12-14 CFM @ 50PSI compressor
painting supplies - generic air compressor water seperator & oil filter, airgun filter, air micrometer, paint sleeves, etc..
painbooth supplies - 5-10micrometer filters (exhaust & intake), retractable shop curtain, sparkless exhaust fan, charcole mask & filter, scrubs/overalls, etc..

Getting some bodywork done tomorrow for the rusted license plate lip & rear corner panel & door damage

Hopefully mine will be sparking new soon as well.

Still haven't figured out the best way to undercoat the car, especially where you jack it up & it tends to rust.

I though about renting paint booth time, but that wouldn't work as I want to paint the interior, & removable panels (corner panel, trunk, hood, gas cap, etc..). Plus I'll probably end up finding rust or body filler that will take too long to correct at a paint booth.

I saw on a car restoring show how to paint the hard to reach areas with some "squirting hose" solution. Wonder how that works - especially since you can't primer or de-rust those areas.
I would personally skip the shermin williams paint.
A Satajet 90( not statajet, but im sure that was just a typo ) HVLP gun requires ALOT of air pressure to keep the gun running. You will pretty much need about 110 lbs into the gun at all times to maintain pressure so I would reconsider your air compressor choice.
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Old Jan 7, 2003 | 09:21 PM
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Rob XX 7,

It's not HVLP .... although there is a version that's HVLP. Even the high pressure version requires like 10.5 CMF, so I'll need 12-15 CFM compressor for sure. That's a $300-$500 compressor (plus all the addons you'll need).

I'm sure it's not the top paint out there, but lots of shops swear by it .. and sherwin william's website has THE BEST directions on how to prep, paint, & sand.

If you have a favorite that's reasonable priced, let me know. This stuff runs $244.85/gal, and includes the topcoat I believe.

That's not counting the primers, flex agents, metal conditioner/cleaner, etc..

Last edited by vaughnc; Jan 7, 2003 at 09:24 PM.
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Old Jan 7, 2003 | 09:27 PM
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A satajet 90 is HVLP, you must have another gun that Sata makes.

Thats really cheap for BC/CC! If you like it, use it! I prefer DuPont myself.
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Old Jan 7, 2003 | 09:37 PM
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Doh, wrong model.

The satajet 90 SL is the one I'm looking at, and it's regular "blow it everywhere" high pressure.

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Old Jan 8, 2003 | 10:19 AM
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I use a True HVLP setup, Devilbliss JGHV501 with a TP77 TURBINE
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Old Jan 8, 2003 | 10:39 AM
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Why didn't you remove the brake lines? Maybe you covered them with tape?
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Old Jan 8, 2003 | 11:05 AM
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In that photo they are taped.
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Old Jan 8, 2003 | 12:06 PM
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we forget to tape something off?
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Old Jan 8, 2003 | 12:06 PM
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i painted a car once. looked good, but rusted out. here's a picture of her. we were trying to start her after two years of sitting in our back yard

Last edited by need-a-t2; Jan 8, 2003 at 12:10 PM.
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Old Jan 8, 2003 | 12:17 PM
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I though about a turbine compressor for the warm dry air & no oil. But, that's mostly for painting right. You won't want to run your air-powered tools off of it. Plus it's like a minimum of $1000 right.
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Old Jan 8, 2003 | 01:04 PM
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lot less grime than mine has
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