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werid coolant problem. 1987 s4

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Old 11-28-07, 09:14 PM
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werid coolant problem. 1987 s4

scroll down to bottom if you don't want to read this whole thing.

ive searched and searched but the results were to no avail. well, my problem is that recently i changed my water pump due to my old was was a failure. well after the installation, i let the gasket maker to cure. i also bought a new gasket from car quest. so they are both on there together. well as to fill it up with coolant, i removed the fill cap, the one on the "neck" that looks like a radiator cap, the radiator cap that is not on the radiator but is connected via a 1/4" rubber tube 12" away. as i fill it up, with the car off, i top it off. then i remove the bleed plug on the passenger side on the upper part of the radiator, it has a Phillips head screw and is plastic. so i keep on filling it up until it starts to go out of the bleed hole. i then replace the the bleed plug and i start the car. at the moment, i have both of the radiator caps off. as it starts to circulate, i keep on adding the coolant mixture, i also turn the heat on high, i leave the car idle as i watch it and adding additional coolant for about 20 mins. i feel this is enough time for the thermostat to open and allow the coolant to fully circulate. the coolant is all the up to the top. at the time, i thought that i had all the air bubbles out. so i go out for a drive. i notice a weird problem, the car never really get to the middle of the temperature gauge. it stays very low. so i turn the heat on and its very warm. like hot. so i just think that since is really cold outside, the car just stays cool. but then today, the buzzer and add coolant light shows up. so i pull over and the system has air in it. i know because as i turned the car off and i start to take the fill cap off, hot steam air is coming out. so i take it off and i add coolant. i sat there on the side of the road and bled the system. so then again i thought i had all the bubbles out. but no. at times, the alarm would sound and i have air in the system. i have bled the car about 6 times in about a week now and its starting to **** the **** out of me. im pretty sure im doing it right cause my 240 does not have the problem and i flushed it recently. i don't have any pin hole leaks anywhere. i do have an over flowing coolant reservoir. and i have no leaks at all. i just somehow get air out of no where.



cliff notes.

i changed water pump.
i bleed the system.
water temp is low.
i get signal to add coolant.
i add coolant and bleed.
i think everything is fine.
i get the signal again.
i add and bleed.
i seem to have air in my system out of nowhere.
over flowing reservoir.

do you guys think replacing the thermostat will do anything? the car has 127XXX miles. by the way. thanks.

Last edited by Talde; 11-28-07 at 09:20 PM.
Old 11-28-07, 09:43 PM
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ok first off the temp being low is how it should be, the needle should sit just about 1/5-1/4 the way up the gauge,

if you've been driving the car with the gauge 1/2 for a long time or have ever overheated the motor then most likely you've toasted the coolant seals inside the motor, or worse the wall around the seal has given out, both are very probable and will require a complete rebuild.

does your car have any smoking problems?
Old 11-29-07, 05:34 AM
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car does not smoke, i don't smell any thing other then exhaust. it doesn't feel weak. how else can you test that i have blown a coolant seal.
Old 11-29-07, 06:08 AM
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most auto parts can rent/lend a coolant system pressure tester.

This should help you find the problem.
Old 11-29-07, 06:55 AM
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You have a leak that is not apparent under pressure, but leaks under vacuum. This happens to RX7's pretty frequently. When the engine cooling system cools off a vacuum is formed. The vacuum pulls the coolant back in from the overflow tank. If you have a leak that allows air to come in during this time, the coolant does not return and stays in the overflow tank.

The problem is even harder to find if you have used some sort of stop leak material. The pressure during operation forces the material into the leak stopping any coolant from coming out. Under vacuum however, the stop leak gets sucked out of the leak and air enters the system.

Likely places are a leak in the hose from the radiator to the overflow tank, or bad connections at either end of the hose.

A new oem rad cap is pretty important in this situation as well.

My leak was actually a hairline crack in my S5 thermostat housing.

Good luck.
Old 11-29-07, 04:12 PM
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well i get paid on friday so ill get new radiator caps and a new thrmostat. also pressure is building up while its hot. and air is getting in there. i know because while the car is running, i squeeze the upper radiator hose and its very plumpy. so what i do is i losen the plasitc bleed screw and air comes out. i let it cume out until coolant comes out so i know that theres no more air in there. i also let the radiator cap loose, the one most forward on the car, so air can come out. im starting to think that theres too much water in there. cause water boils. but i guess its not a true 50/50 mix. i hope its that cause i dont really want to rebuild this motor right now. so when i get paid, im going to go by 2 radiator caps and a thermostat. and ill get someone else to do the coolant change. maybe my job. thanks though for the responses.
Old 12-19-07, 11:36 PM
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well. the car has a blown coolant seal. and im already 50% done with the exchange of the gasket. i bought a gasket kit from atkins. im am going to reuse all of the metal seals in the engine though. they are all up to factory specs as to the guide in the Haynes manual. ill take pictures of the reassembly. i don't have pictures of the disassembly cause i do not have a camera. i just got one recently. well this is going to be my very first engine build up. wish me luck. i never thought the first engine im going to build was going to be a rotary. lol. i like my fc more then my s13 at this point. lol.
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