first and formost Sesshoumaru ... you are the man

you are the only one that provided the right info to get my car started ...

however now the cars idle will bounce ...
the lowest i can get it to idle is about 1000-1100, without dying ... ive adjust the idle screw, and the TPS ..
the tps at idle i can get right at about 1ohm , but at wide open throttle, the highest i can get it is about 4.12 .... and when i can get it that hight the idle of course goes up to about 2 or 3 ohms ..

so my idle is high ... it doenst really bother me that much ... the thing that kills me is say im driving it in about 3rd, and then i go to neutral ... it just dies ... BUT if i just barely blimp the throttle while its in neutral and im rolling, it will stay alive .. its the damndest thing ..

is that TPS related do you think?
i have no BAC, or anything emissions related ... so all i have to adjust idle with is the TPS, and the idle mixture screw on the back of the TB

any one know whats up?

 

Hey, Check your Thermostat, make sure it is the OEM one, I suggest iof you are not sure it it is that you buy one from mazdatrix. My thermostat was making my idle bounce and was keeping it high etc. Replace yours, and it should help. It fixed my Idle problem.

 

not the thermostat

its OEM , and its staying right at 1/4 on the temp gauge ... ive been driving it all day ....

im thinking its got something to do with either the timing or the TPS...

what do you guys think?

 

bump

 

Vac leak?
My car idles that high too...and also has the surging. It DOESN'T die out tho..and holds idle pretty good. I'm thinking its a vac leak, cuz i've changed out my TPS already.

 

bump

 

i got the timing adjusted and it took forever ... we kept turning the CAS , and the damn mark never showed up ... finally it did though, and when it was dead on it seemed a little worse .... so we advanced it a few degrees ... rotorbrain, said it was about 4-6 degrees advanced .... is that going to hurt anything ....

and it keeps missing ... im going to change the plugs once the engine cools down, so i hope thats it ... and i do have some vaccum leaks, so im still getting those in check ....
if its not the plugs that are making it miss, what else causes missing .... like i said the timing was dead on , and it didnt clear anything up ....

will anything other than plugs, and timing cause it to miss?

 

up

 

could be the cas, other than that I wouldnt know what to tell you... is it turbo????

 

That's weird- mine idled rough too, with the timing dead nuts, after the rebuild, so I advanced mine too...Not having a BAC to compensate for any other errors in the system makes it tough to tweak idle problems...I think missing (unless severe) is normal on our cars at idle...

 

yeah its a turbo ...

so i adjusted the CAS gears (under the CAS cover) to the specs in the haynes manuel, but now the trailing coil isnt firing at all ... ... i know this cause im using the timing light gun, and when i attach the clip thing to the trailing wires theres no light ...

the thing is , the haynes manual says to line up the bump on the CAS stem with the arrow, but when i do this, the gears look nothing like this hailers posted CAS posistion (fc3s.org)

but thats what the haynes said to do ... is the haynes manuel wrong .. cause now that its set to the haynes specs the trailing doesnt fire at all ...

once again ..

what do you guys think?

 

up

 

If you lined up the CAS marks, and the pulley marks are known to be in the right place (I figured out it's possible we CAN screw that up on a rebuild), then you should be close- for now do what I did- adjust it by ear...

 

so that is a viable way of setting it?

i was thinking of doing that but i wasnt sure if it was a good idea or not ...

 

check ur TID(turbo intake duct).....i should probably tell u not to mess with the idle adjust screw..but maybe its too late

 

thats the only way i can get it to idle ...

i NEEDED to mess with the Idle Adjust screw

my main question now is howcome my CAS doesnt look like the one in the picture i posted a link to above ...

i lined it up with how the haynes told me to, but now the trailing doesnt even fire

 

please

 

do you have a camera???

 

no

 

im also running extremely rich(although i dont really smell it), cause ive gone thru half a tank of gas and ive only gone 60 miles

i cant get the idle below 1K without it sputtering to death, so i cant get the timing dead on ...

i adjusted it yesterday, but then i messed with the CAS, the tick marks now arent even viewable ... although when we set the timing it was idleing at about 1100 rpm
...
i wish someone lived near me that new alot about 2nd gen turbos

 

you probably will eat a lot of gas on the rebuild, especially if you installed used rotor housings- there's no compression yet...yes, at this point tweaking the CAS by ear is viable- when it starts sputtering go back the other way about 1/8 to 1/4 inch (measuring at the CAS locking nut stud compared to the CAS body)...Just don't go romping on it until the idle gets good enough to properly time it...the idle should get better with more driving

 

its not a rebuild

this engine has atleast 40,000 miles on it

 

wait a minute, if the trailing plugs aren't firing, won't the engine not run at all?

and 60 miles for half a tank is pretty bad, but should get better once you get everything working right. you should be seeing twice that many miles for half a tank of gas usually, depending on how you drive of course...

 

Sorry, thought you said rebuild earlier (your problems match those of a fresh used-rotor housing rebuild)...hmmm...If the TPS is good, compression is good, and timing is good enough to hold a somewhat smooth idle at 1000 rpm, then why are you eating so much gas? Bad timing will eat gas, for sure, maybe that's still your only problem...What are the compression numbers?

 

well ... the timing was set decently but it wasnt set with a 750 rpm idle ...
so it bogus from what ive read ...

when i readjusted the CAS, i couldnt even see the timing marks anymore, and i cant keep a steady idle ...
it wont idle at all below 1100 rpm or so ... and when it does idle , it kinda surges ... i have found some vaccum leaks .. mostly around the LIM , where i blocked some stuff off ... its hard to get to those parts, so i think im just gonna honda bond all the edges ... the intercooler also has a slight leak on the hose at the drivers side ...
that is due to a s4 intercooler on a s5 UIM ... but i have a JSPEC s5 intercooler on the way .. so that should take care of that ...

my man thing to do now is to get my idle steady, which means hunting for VAC leaks ... hopefully i can get my timing straight then ...

is it bad to drive the car with the timing off .... and by off, i mean pretty off ....


oh and the trailing not firing i fixed by Re-adjusting the CAS ... now it fires , and im missing alot less ... once i get the idle straight, i can get the timing straight, and then i should see an improvement in gas milage right?