Well, its still an intermittent no start...
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Well, its still an intermittent no start...
I tried the ground wire from the rear rotor housing and it worked good all day but just let me down just now...I've noticed that it is in a temperature range during cool down between shut off and full cool down...and I have a new thermo sensor too....sooner or later we will figure it out...you out there Wayne...HELP...
#3
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O.K. Harley, let's start back at square one...What do we need to start the car?
1) Good battery, with good corrosion-free terminal posts connections (sure you've checked this out by now)
2) Good, clean ground bolted to (or near) the starter (it gets pretty gunky/oily down there)
3) Along the same lines, need a good solid positive terminal connection and solenoid connection at the starter
4) A good clutch "interlock" switch (easy enough to check with a meter while you're wiggling it around/thumping it, whatever) + the wiring to & from the clutch switch (black/red going to, black/green coming from)
5) A good (de-energized) starter cut relay, that's not somehow being inadvertently energized via the theft-deterrent unit (I mentioned this before, if in doubt, just cut the black/green and black/white wires at the relay & splice them together if you don't use the factory alarm- this will effectively bypass the relay contacts)
6) A good ignition switch (don't know if you've checked this yet)
7) And of course, all the other associated systems I think you've already checked: main relay, ignition/fuel systems,CAS,ECU,etc...
8) Check the harness & individual wires below the engine bay fuse box for any contact chaffing with the chassis, as well check the fuse box internals for corrosion (it sits so close to the battery, this is always a possibility)
Good luck, man...
1) Good battery, with good corrosion-free terminal posts connections (sure you've checked this out by now)
2) Good, clean ground bolted to (or near) the starter (it gets pretty gunky/oily down there)
3) Along the same lines, need a good solid positive terminal connection and solenoid connection at the starter
4) A good clutch "interlock" switch (easy enough to check with a meter while you're wiggling it around/thumping it, whatever) + the wiring to & from the clutch switch (black/red going to, black/green coming from)
5) A good (de-energized) starter cut relay, that's not somehow being inadvertently energized via the theft-deterrent unit (I mentioned this before, if in doubt, just cut the black/green and black/white wires at the relay & splice them together if you don't use the factory alarm- this will effectively bypass the relay contacts)
6) A good ignition switch (don't know if you've checked this yet)
7) And of course, all the other associated systems I think you've already checked: main relay, ignition/fuel systems,CAS,ECU,etc...
8) Check the harness & individual wires below the engine bay fuse box for any contact chaffing with the chassis, as well check the fuse box internals for corrosion (it sits so close to the battery, this is always a possibility)
Good luck, man...
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OK...a lot of that stuff is OK...keep in mind that its turning over fine...I'm just not getting fuel past the injectors intermittenly...that starter cut relay sounds interesting...where is that located ??
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Well, if that cuts in for some reason, your starter will kick off (or not come on at all)...That doesn't sound like your prob now...What if ya got a fuel pump going bad? Ya know, move the car a little, the moving gas "bumps" it a little, gets the (alleged) bad contacts mating again, now it starts???
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Dude, I've tried three different fuel pumps...no kidding...I have even jumpered the thing so it runs all the time...the starter never quits turning...it just sounded interesting when you said the antitheft thingy...you know that there is a stage there that cuts off some process of starting ...like you can turn your key twice in the door and she won't start, but the starter will turn....hey........might have something there...
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In that case, just pull the control unit out for a while & see what happens...Up there behind the glove compartment somewhere, I've never had to find mine yet...
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Man, there are a lot of power sources for that thing (the 7.5A room & 7.5A meter being two that I can see), and a lot of circuits make their way to it...I don't think you can kill it by just pulling one fuse (actually, that's a good design for an alarm- hard to kill)...Just pull the sucker for now, or you'll be driving around with no key warning, interior lights, radio, alternator warning light, gage cluster, back-up lights, warning lights, CPU buzzer, you get the picture...
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headed home in my other rx....yesterday the one in question did fine till I got ready to leave work...I cranked on it of and on for 3-5 minutes, then waited for 25 minutes and she fired up and ran like a dream...best running rex I ever had....88GTU owned by a
Doctor, had her for three years I'm second owner...the other is an 88 SE with auto tranny...solid...will catch up later at home and if yer gone fer the day will talk tomorrow...thanks a million Wayne...
Doctor, had her for three years I'm second owner...the other is an 88 SE with auto tranny...solid...will catch up later at home and if yer gone fer the day will talk tomorrow...thanks a million Wayne...
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yes, thats right...I remember one blew one time and I had non of those things < i know where the relay is behind the glove box I just dont know what all it affects...I'm going to check the door switch that must be on the inside of the door that sends the signal too if that don't work.
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it's "bolted" to the handle assy with 2 little micro-screws with 4mm nuts on 'em- I took mine off the other day while fixing my broken handle...The previous owner got fed up with the alarm and disabled it somehow, so I don't need the switches (plus they look like they could work good for 5/6 port indicator switches )
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