weird starting issue!
#1
Rotary Turbo
Thread Starter
weird starting issue!
this morning i started my 86 NA and as soon as it started there was a draging loud noise between the engine and tranny, then a bit of smoked started t come out so i turned it off and took off the key and the engine was still cranking, i had to disconect battery cable to stop it.
I already tested starter - passed the auto zone test
i don't have any idea of what it could be, has any one came to this problem before. any help will be appreciated!
I already tested starter - passed the auto zone test
i don't have any idea of what it could be, has any one came to this problem before. any help will be appreciated!
#4
I'm too old for this *%*!
Join Date: Nov 2001
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starter bendix stuck- and that keeps the solenoid energized. The bench test or on car test won't catch that problem. Get it fixed, it'll wear on your ring gear, produce to much heat, and can be a fire hazard from overheated wiring
Goodluck,
Rootsgroup
Goodluck,
Rootsgroup
#5
Rotary Turbo
Thread Starter
How could i get it fixed, do i have to replace the starter?
#6
THe key could have very well got stuck in the forward position making the starter solenoid stay engaged. See if that was the problem.... Or see if the battery wire hit the solenoid wire in turn engaging it. The solenoid could have gotten stuck as well making the starter whine(happened to me). Go ahead and reinstall the starter and try again. It could have been something stupid.
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#15
Rotary Turbo
Thread Starter
where is the location of the starter relay on the car? Also i found around the starter that there is a connection with a little black square next to it, is this suppost to go to the starter?? Also does any one know which are the only connections to the starter- i just have ground, battery, and a little wire.
#16
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There is no Starter Relay UNLESS you have Theft Protection and then there is a Starter Cut Relay located near the Main Relay.
The series four wiring schematics are free and online and straight forward looking. The first couple of pages show the starting circuit and the wiring.
Some early cars did/do not have the interlock switch on the clutch that *MAKES* the starter circuit when the pedal is depressed.
The small wire on the starter solenoid comes from the key to cause the starter solenoid to engage. That wire passes thru a couple of connectors b/t the key and the starter solenoid.
Only power on that wire can cause the starter to engage. If the wire touches gnd it won't cause the starter to turn over. The large wire on the starter SOLENOID is the power wire directly from the batterys positive post. The ground for the starter is located on the long starter attach bolt and comes directly from the battery.
It sounds like the starter solenoid stuck or the ignition key for unknown reasons did not work right and left 12v on the START circuit after you let the key return to On.
The series four wiring schematics are free and online and straight forward looking. The first couple of pages show the starting circuit and the wiring.
Some early cars did/do not have the interlock switch on the clutch that *MAKES* the starter circuit when the pedal is depressed.
The small wire on the starter solenoid comes from the key to cause the starter solenoid to engage. That wire passes thru a couple of connectors b/t the key and the starter solenoid.
Only power on that wire can cause the starter to engage. If the wire touches gnd it won't cause the starter to turn over. The large wire on the starter SOLENOID is the power wire directly from the batterys positive post. The ground for the starter is located on the long starter attach bolt and comes directly from the battery.
It sounds like the starter solenoid stuck or the ignition key for unknown reasons did not work right and left 12v on the START circuit after you let the key return to On.
#18
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SUGGESTION: Download the series four wiring diagrams from this site.
Power goes from the ignition switch.........to the clutch interlock switch waaaaay at the top of the clutch pedal..................to inside the engine compartment on the left side and to a plug located under the Trail Coil assy...................then directly to the starter solenod.
Lift the Trail coil assy up and look for a bright blue jumper connector. Pull the blue jumper off the plug. One of the wires that was being jumpered is black/white and goes directly to the starter solenoid. The other wire is black/green if memory serves and comes from the clutch interlock switch.
Some early cars DO NOT have a clutch interlock switch. If you have never had to depress the clutch to start your car, then don't bother looking for on. Ain't thar.
Your problem lies with the starter solenoid or the ignition key. Hard to say which. It's a tie.
Power goes from the ignition switch.........to the clutch interlock switch waaaaay at the top of the clutch pedal..................to inside the engine compartment on the left side and to a plug located under the Trail Coil assy...................then directly to the starter solenod.
Lift the Trail coil assy up and look for a bright blue jumper connector. Pull the blue jumper off the plug. One of the wires that was being jumpered is black/white and goes directly to the starter solenoid. The other wire is black/green if memory serves and comes from the clutch interlock switch.
Some early cars DO NOT have a clutch interlock switch. If you have never had to depress the clutch to start your car, then don't bother looking for on. Ain't thar.
Your problem lies with the starter solenoid or the ignition key. Hard to say which. It's a tie.
#20
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There's a couple of links in this thread: https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=698699
Also in the FAQ thread that is one of the first threads on this forum.
Also in the FAQ thread that is one of the first threads on this forum.
#21
Rotary Turbo
Thread Starter
I did the ignition switch test, i connected a light to the starter solenoid wire and it lit up at run position and stood lit at on position even when i took the key off, it turns off until i disconnect the battery.
so i think the problem is in the ignition switch, how could i fixed if is shorted.
the clutch has a switch on top of it , it looks like the one from the brake pedal for the lights, but i have never needed to press the clutch to turn on the car but i still do it anyway.
so i think the problem is in the ignition switch, how could i fixed if is shorted.
the clutch has a switch on top of it , it looks like the one from the brake pedal for the lights, but i have never needed to press the clutch to turn on the car but i still do it anyway.
#22
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Two switches on most cars. Lower one for kiilling the cruise and sending a *clutch in* signal to the ECU.
The clutch INTERLOCK switch is waaaaay up at the top of the clutch pedal. IF YOUR CAR CAME WITH ONE. Like I might have said, I have one car that has no clutch interlock switch. The wiring diagrams show the color of the wires going to the interlock switch IF the car came with one.
The wiring diagram shows a black/red wire going to the interlock sw from the key and a black/green leaving the interlock switch. Page 50-18 of the series four wiring diagrams.
Power on the solenoid wire all the time, eh? PUll the blue plug off that I mentioned in an earlier post. Find the black/green wire in that plug and see if it has voltage on it.
Here is a better idea. Go to the ignition switches plugs that are located about a foot from the ignition switch. Find the connector with the Black/Red wire. Pull it off and see if there is voltage on that black/red wire. Shouldn't be.
And I'm NOT talking about the wire colors off the switch itself. I'm talking about one of the plugs that attaches to the ignition switch wiring. Black/REd wire.
The clutch INTERLOCK switch is waaaaay up at the top of the clutch pedal. IF YOUR CAR CAME WITH ONE. Like I might have said, I have one car that has no clutch interlock switch. The wiring diagrams show the color of the wires going to the interlock switch IF the car came with one.
The wiring diagram shows a black/red wire going to the interlock sw from the key and a black/green leaving the interlock switch. Page 50-18 of the series four wiring diagrams.
Power on the solenoid wire all the time, eh? PUll the blue plug off that I mentioned in an earlier post. Find the black/green wire in that plug and see if it has voltage on it.
Here is a better idea. Go to the ignition switches plugs that are located about a foot from the ignition switch. Find the connector with the Black/Red wire. Pull it off and see if there is voltage on that black/red wire. Shouldn't be.
And I'm NOT talking about the wire colors off the switch itself. I'm talking about one of the plugs that attaches to the ignition switch wiring. Black/REd wire.
#23
Rotary Turbo
Thread Starter
I took that blue plug and the car doesn't start at all.
doesn't the black/red wire come from the ignition swtich to the blue plug and then a black/white wire to the solenoid.
should i check for voltage when the car is off , on, or when i start the car and the key is on and there is a dragging noise??
doesn't the black/red wire come from the ignition swtich to the blue plug and then a black/white wire to the solenoid.
should i check for voltage when the car is off , on, or when i start the car and the key is on and there is a dragging noise??
#24
Rotary Turbo
Thread Starter
i disconnected the blue plug and a test light to the black/red wire and the lights turns on at start position and off at on position. so now i connected the light at the black/red at the ignition switch and it did the same with the plug removed.
does this explains that the ignition swith is ok??
I did the same test but with the blue plug conected and the light didn't turned of at the on, acc, position. engine was still cranking.
does this explains that the ignition swith is ok??
I did the same test but with the blue plug conected and the light didn't turned of at the on, acc, position. engine was still cranking.