weird acceleratoin problem
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,554
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From: Charleston, SC
weird acceleratoin problem
ok i searched and i still cant find out what is wrong wtih my car.
i have a 1990 auto vert
my car accelerates so slow as if it is on the hold button, but it only happens sometimes.
i put my foot on the accelerator and no matter how far i push it down it does the same thing. the rpms also stay around 2k rpm.
i know this might be confusing but yeh anybody know wtf is up?
also some times there is a weird rattling sound in the engine.
and also the fuel light is ALWAYS on now.
i have had a bad fuel pump before in my audi but it would act differently.
so i dont think that its that.
i have a 1990 auto vert
my car accelerates so slow as if it is on the hold button, but it only happens sometimes.
i put my foot on the accelerator and no matter how far i push it down it does the same thing. the rpms also stay around 2k rpm.
i know this might be confusing but yeh anybody know wtf is up?
also some times there is a weird rattling sound in the engine.
and also the fuel light is ALWAYS on now.
i have had a bad fuel pump before in my audi but it would act differently.
so i dont think that its that.
Stop driving it. Is your check engine light on? Check your car for codes. If you are throwing code 27 your car could be in limp mode from a failing OMP. Continuing to drive it in this condition can and will lead to engine failure.
Other less volatile problems could be a clogged cat, fuel delivery problem, screwed up plugs, etc.. When is the last time you did a tune up on this car?
Related links:
http://www.rotorwiki.com/index.php/89-91_Error_Codes
http://www.rotorwiki.com/index.php/S...cal_Schematics
Other less volatile problems could be a clogged cat, fuel delivery problem, screwed up plugs, etc.. When is the last time you did a tune up on this car?
Related links:
http://www.rotorwiki.com/index.php/89-91_Error_Codes
http://www.rotorwiki.com/index.php/S...cal_Schematics
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,554
Likes: 0
From: Charleston, SC
no the engine check light isnt on. only the fuel light.
and last time i did a tune up was like last month.
umm this might be a noob questoin but how do check codes?
and thanks for the links
and last time i did a tune up was like last month.
umm this might be a noob questoin but how do check codes?
and thanks for the links
Try this... CLICK the links.
Honestly, I don't know if it will still give you codes.... The OMP code WILL give you a check engine light... so it might be something else. I would throw some 150-200:1 premix in there anyways just to be safe though.. Take it for a "spirited" drive then get out and check the cat.. if its glowing red, there's a good chance its clogged up real good.. Good luck.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,554
Likes: 0
From: Charleston, SC
well i check the codes. i got 12 and 18.
which both are tps.
12 - Throttle Sensor (TPS) Full Range - Fixed at 20% open
18 - Throttle Sensor (TPS) Narrow Range - Fixed at full-open
how do i fix this, or change it?
and also i took the car out for a 5 minute drive.
i checked the cats and they didnt glow
which both are tps.
12 - Throttle Sensor (TPS) Full Range - Fixed at 20% open
18 - Throttle Sensor (TPS) Narrow Range - Fixed at full-open
how do i fix this, or change it?
and also i took the car out for a 5 minute drive.
i checked the cats and they didnt glow
http://www.rotorwiki.com/index.php/TPS_Adjustment
If that doesn't work, its time to replace it. But, TPS wouldn't limit your RPM's/power I can't imagine.... it would just give you an erratic idle... But I suppose the TPS could cause a cut-out condition.
If that doesn't work, its time to replace it. But, TPS wouldn't limit your RPM's/power I can't imagine.... it would just give you an erratic idle... But I suppose the TPS could cause a cut-out condition.
No, not at all, how do you figure??? 
With a bad TPS, there will be some hesitation when letting off the throttle *and* you should throw a code. That part is one that's flaky; it'll work fine, then act up, then work fine again, at least in my experience. Have yours checked and if it's out of range, just replace with a known good part. Try and get one used. It's $300+ new from the dealer, ~$80 used.

With a bad TPS, there will be some hesitation when letting off the throttle *and* you should throw a code. That part is one that's flaky; it'll work fine, then act up, then work fine again, at least in my experience. Have yours checked and if it's out of range, just replace with a known good part. Try and get one used. It's $300+ new from the dealer, ~$80 used.
I was able to find my new TPS in a junkyard. Search around your town for a junk yard. I found mine in a "Pick n' Pull" for 2.55 including tax. I did a little dance when he said the final price. MUCH better than in the dealership.
Oh, I am sorry. Want me to see if I can find you one over here?
There were about 4 rx7's in this junk yard. The first I looked at was pretty much stripped, but the second and third one had some pretty good engine parts left in it.
I can see if I can find a tps in the 3rd or 4th one. Yea?
There were about 4 rx7's in this junk yard. The first I looked at was pretty much stripped, but the second and third one had some pretty good engine parts left in it.
I can see if I can find a tps in the 3rd or 4th one. Yea?
I was asking because my car pings around 3-4k and I'm boosting at 5lb. Other then that, all I get is a code 12 that's why I was wondering if the tps would make my car ping. Would bad injector seals make me ping?
How do you know your car is "pinging"/detonating? Is it something you hear or feel or both? Sounds more like you're experiencing the "3800 RPM Hesitation" which is common with FCs.
Quoted from the FAQ:
"I have this hesitation whenever I accelerate right around 3500-4000 RPM
The dreaded 3800 RPM hesitation is cause 90% of the time by poor ground connections between the engine, the battery, and the car. Clean or replace all the under hood ground connections. On 86 model year cars , replacing/regrounding the pressure sensor's ground wire has helped (do not re-ground a 87 or later model year). If there is still a problem after that, look at cleaning the fuel injectors and (on a N/A) that your 5th/6th ports are operating correctly."
Do a search for more info.
Here's "RETed's" page on detonation:
http://fc3spro.com/TECH/FAQ/deton.html
Basically, if you're running a bunch of engine mods and higher boost and not getting enough fuel, *that's* when you'll start pinging.
Neither of the above will make your car ping. If your car is up there in miles, it's probably just a matter of old parts that need to be replaced.
Quoted from the FAQ:
"I have this hesitation whenever I accelerate right around 3500-4000 RPM
The dreaded 3800 RPM hesitation is cause 90% of the time by poor ground connections between the engine, the battery, and the car. Clean or replace all the under hood ground connections. On 86 model year cars , replacing/regrounding the pressure sensor's ground wire has helped (do not re-ground a 87 or later model year). If there is still a problem after that, look at cleaning the fuel injectors and (on a N/A) that your 5th/6th ports are operating correctly."
Do a search for more info.
Here's "RETed's" page on detonation:
http://fc3spro.com/TECH/FAQ/deton.html
Basically, if you're running a bunch of engine mods and higher boost and not getting enough fuel, *that's* when you'll start pinging.
Other then that, all I get is a code 12 that's why I was wondering if the tps would make my car ping. Would bad injector seals make me ping?


