weird acceleratoin problem
#1
Rotary Freak
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weird acceleratoin problem
ok i searched and i still cant find out what is wrong wtih my car.
i have a 1990 auto vert
my car accelerates so slow as if it is on the hold button, but it only happens sometimes.
i put my foot on the accelerator and no matter how far i push it down it does the same thing. the rpms also stay around 2k rpm.
i know this might be confusing but yeh anybody know wtf is up?
also some times there is a weird rattling sound in the engine.
and also the fuel light is ALWAYS on now.
i have had a bad fuel pump before in my audi but it would act differently.
so i dont think that its that.
i have a 1990 auto vert
my car accelerates so slow as if it is on the hold button, but it only happens sometimes.
i put my foot on the accelerator and no matter how far i push it down it does the same thing. the rpms also stay around 2k rpm.
i know this might be confusing but yeh anybody know wtf is up?
also some times there is a weird rattling sound in the engine.
and also the fuel light is ALWAYS on now.
i have had a bad fuel pump before in my audi but it would act differently.
so i dont think that its that.
#3
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Stop driving it. Is your check engine light on? Check your car for codes. If you are throwing code 27 your car could be in limp mode from a failing OMP. Continuing to drive it in this condition can and will lead to engine failure.
Other less volatile problems could be a clogged cat, fuel delivery problem, screwed up plugs, etc.. When is the last time you did a tune up on this car?
Related links:
http://www.rotorwiki.com/index.php/89-91_Error_Codes
http://www.rotorwiki.com/index.php/S...cal_Schematics
Other less volatile problems could be a clogged cat, fuel delivery problem, screwed up plugs, etc.. When is the last time you did a tune up on this car?
Related links:
http://www.rotorwiki.com/index.php/89-91_Error_Codes
http://www.rotorwiki.com/index.php/S...cal_Schematics
#4
Rotary Freak
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no the engine check light isnt on. only the fuel light.
and last time i did a tune up was like last month.
umm this might be a noob questoin but how do check codes?
and thanks for the links
and last time i did a tune up was like last month.
umm this might be a noob questoin but how do check codes?
and thanks for the links
#5
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Try this... CLICK the links.
#7
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Honestly, I don't know if it will still give you codes.... The OMP code WILL give you a check engine light... so it might be something else. I would throw some 150-200:1 premix in there anyways just to be safe though.. Take it for a "spirited" drive then get out and check the cat.. if its glowing red, there's a good chance its clogged up real good.. Good luck.
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#9
Rotary Freak
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well i check the codes. i got 12 and 18.
which both are tps.
12 - Throttle Sensor (TPS) Full Range - Fixed at 20% open
18 - Throttle Sensor (TPS) Narrow Range - Fixed at full-open
how do i fix this, or change it?
and also i took the car out for a 5 minute drive.
i checked the cats and they didnt glow
which both are tps.
12 - Throttle Sensor (TPS) Full Range - Fixed at 20% open
18 - Throttle Sensor (TPS) Narrow Range - Fixed at full-open
how do i fix this, or change it?
and also i took the car out for a 5 minute drive.
i checked the cats and they didnt glow
#10
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http://www.rotorwiki.com/index.php/TPS_Adjustment
If that doesn't work, its time to replace it. But, TPS wouldn't limit your RPM's/power I can't imagine.... it would just give you an erratic idle... But I suppose the TPS could cause a cut-out condition.
If that doesn't work, its time to replace it. But, TPS wouldn't limit your RPM's/power I can't imagine.... it would just give you an erratic idle... But I suppose the TPS could cause a cut-out condition.
#13
Power Trippin'
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No, not at all, how do you figure???
With a bad TPS, there will be some hesitation when letting off the throttle *and* you should throw a code. That part is one that's flaky; it'll work fine, then act up, then work fine again, at least in my experience. Have yours checked and if it's out of range, just replace with a known good part. Try and get one used. It's $300+ new from the dealer, ~$80 used.
With a bad TPS, there will be some hesitation when letting off the throttle *and* you should throw a code. That part is one that's flaky; it'll work fine, then act up, then work fine again, at least in my experience. Have yours checked and if it's out of range, just replace with a known good part. Try and get one used. It's $300+ new from the dealer, ~$80 used.
#16
I was able to find my new TPS in a junkyard. Search around your town for a junk yard. I found mine in a "Pick n' Pull" for 2.55 including tax. I did a little dance when he said the final price. MUCH better than in the dealership.
#18
Oh, I am sorry. Want me to see if I can find you one over here?
There were about 4 rx7's in this junk yard. The first I looked at was pretty much stripped, but the second and third one had some pretty good engine parts left in it.
I can see if I can find a tps in the 3rd or 4th one. Yea?
There were about 4 rx7's in this junk yard. The first I looked at was pretty much stripped, but the second and third one had some pretty good engine parts left in it.
I can see if I can find a tps in the 3rd or 4th one. Yea?
#24
Power Trippin'
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How do you know your car is "pinging"/detonating? Is it something you hear or feel or both? Sounds more like you're experiencing the "3800 RPM Hesitation" which is common with FCs.
Quoted from the FAQ:
"I have this hesitation whenever I accelerate right around 3500-4000 RPM
The dreaded 3800 RPM hesitation is cause 90% of the time by poor ground connections between the engine, the battery, and the car. Clean or replace all the under hood ground connections. On 86 model year cars , replacing/regrounding the pressure sensor's ground wire has helped (do not re-ground a 87 or later model year). If there is still a problem after that, look at cleaning the fuel injectors and (on a N/A) that your 5th/6th ports are operating correctly."
Do a search for more info.
Here's "RETed's" page on detonation:
http://fc3spro.com/TECH/FAQ/deton.html
Basically, if you're running a bunch of engine mods and higher boost and not getting enough fuel, *that's* when you'll start pinging.
Neither of the above will make your car ping. If your car is up there in miles, it's probably just a matter of old parts that need to be replaced.
Quoted from the FAQ:
"I have this hesitation whenever I accelerate right around 3500-4000 RPM
The dreaded 3800 RPM hesitation is cause 90% of the time by poor ground connections between the engine, the battery, and the car. Clean or replace all the under hood ground connections. On 86 model year cars , replacing/regrounding the pressure sensor's ground wire has helped (do not re-ground a 87 or later model year). If there is still a problem after that, look at cleaning the fuel injectors and (on a N/A) that your 5th/6th ports are operating correctly."
Do a search for more info.
Here's "RETed's" page on detonation:
http://fc3spro.com/TECH/FAQ/deton.html
Basically, if you're running a bunch of engine mods and higher boost and not getting enough fuel, *that's* when you'll start pinging.
Other then that, all I get is a code 12 that's why I was wondering if the tps would make my car ping. Would bad injector seals make me ping?