CS13B

iTrader: (11)

I'm almost done removal of the waterpump for a gasket repair but just one question.
Does the e-shaft pulley HAVE to come off? Can I just remove those four outer bolts instead of that 19mm centre one?I know the FSM and the write up here https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...remove+removal says I need to but I'm a little hesitant to remove it becaues I dont want to mess up the timing or anything like that. I have the first notch on the pulley matched up with the little pin right now but I just wanted to see if there is a way to avoid removal of the e-shaft pulley.
The waterpump housing wont come forward enough to clear the mounting studs and the pulley is in the way.
I'll be dremelling and cleaning parts until I get an answer

Thanks all.

CS13B

iTrader: (11)

If i'm looking at the FSM in the cooling section for 88, it looks like the outer bolts remove the pulley? not the centre one? would this be correct?

MMoore4545

iTrader: (7)

The outer bolts remove the pulley, and it is necessary to remove it to pull off the water pump housing.

The center one doesn't need to be touched for this procedure.

Also, the E-shaft pulley will only go back on one way, as the bolts are not symmetrical.
so if it is difficult to assemble (as it is multi pieced) don't force it, just reorient them.

-m

thejallenator

iTrader: (14)

it'll take a good 20 minutes to get them right. also you might wanna make sure that upon removal of the water pump to check and make sure that you didnt damage the gasket between the wp housing and the block.

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

^ Yep.

The 19mm bolt holds the hub onto the e-shaft. If you loosen it, you'll likely drop a thrust bearing and open up a big can of worms. The four 10mm bolts hold the main pulley on.

MMoore4545

iTrader: (7)

I was under the impression that the Oil Bypass Pellet was under there and it was reasonably safe to remove.

With that said, there's still no need to mess with it in this procedure.

CS13B

iTrader: (11)

okay thanks guys.. The actual gasket that I'm replacing is the oval one with the split between the front housing and the waterpump housing, but I bought the actual waterpump gasket at the same time, since I figured I would need it. Turns out I do because I'm painting the front of it black. I just finished dremeling the rust off

MMoore4545

iTrader: (7)

Post up some pics when you're done!

CS13B

iTrader: (11)

will do.. I'll make it another thread though along with the air pump when it's clean.. I'm trying to post a video of the sound it makes because it seems quite loud to me and I cant manage to get the back of it off to see inside.

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

...unless of course you follow proper procedure by locking/bracing the clutch pedal to the floor. This makes the pressure plate from the clutch keep the pressure in the eshaft, thus securing the thrust bearing. There is nothing to be afraid of if you follow the procedure.

CS13B

iTrader: (11)

K i can't upload the damn video lol.. I'll try to describe the sound without being too much like a female customer describing wheel bearing noise over the phone. "wiiiiiirrrrrrr... no wait more like... bunnnnnhhhhhhhhhh... no no its more like a groaning actually" lol.. sorry
anyways it sounds way too loud as though a bearing inside has gone bad or something..

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

Mmmhmm, but when you brace the clutch down, the engine will spin freely. So you're left with 3 options for removing the bolt: 1) A tiny impact gun that won't hit the radiator, 2) A normal size impact gun and removing the radiator, 3) A large breaker bar and the "starter trick". But the chances are a person that has no idea about the possible bearing droop will just take a long ratchet to it, and leave the clutch alone.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Oh, pshaw.

Before removing the pulley bolts, rotate the engine till the timing marks line up.
Mark all the pulleys with a Sharpie so you can keep them clocked to each other properly.

When reinstalling, line up the Sharpie marks and put the assembly back on the hub with the timing mark aligned again.

Viola!, done.

There, I just saved you 15 minutes better used cleaning your bong.

CS13B

iTrader: (11)

^^ lol i keep my bongs cleaner than I keep my interior.
and at first I thought 'black sharpie on black paint' won't work for me but then I realized in its current state its more of a grey/rusty brown colour.. so that should be fine.

One more thing.. The e-shaft should have some lateral play right? I can pull on the pulley and slide the assembly forward just a few mm maybe, but forward nonetheless. I think I remember reading something about that in the FSM but I can't find it again now while I'm looking.

MMoore4545

iTrader: (7)

by bong we all mean water tobacco pipe of course...

and clokker, thanks, I totally forgot to mention to use a silver sharpie or grease pen to mark them, thanks.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

*nudge, nudge, wink, wink*...oh wait, that's not what I meant at all.
Cigarettes are a far superior nicotine delivery vehicle, why complicate things?

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

The OP knew that there was danger, just not how to avoid it. That's why we tell them, so they don't make a known mistake.


I personally use the starter trick. Very slick.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

It is completely unnecessary to pull the eshaft hub off. Just remove the four bolts. Stick two nuts and bolts back into the assembly when it's off the car (so that the pieces don't move out of place).

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

FWIW, the pulleys only go back on one way - the bolt holes only line up when it is in the correct place.

CS13B

iTrader: (11)

okay now that i have the 4 bolts out.. the pulley assembly isnt coming off... does it need to be pried off? It should have been taken off about a year ago by the shop who did my front housing seal, so it shouldnt be rusted on there this tight already. any ideas?

CS13B

iTrader: (11)

nvm guys.. was just on there really tight lol i got it