Both racerjason and I recently replaced my entire Front Engine Harness with that of a new one.

All went very well overall and am confident I can do this less than a day, If there Is even a next time. Anyway, I was handling the Engine Bay and was absolutely stumped with both the Brown and Black Wire female connectors needed to plug In at the Water Temperture Switch. Admittingly, I didn't have my marker on me at the time to make the neccessary labelling.

Now, either way I plug In the connectors, the Idle Is not effected at all. Infact, I don't even get a 3000rpm start up any more. It just Idles at 750rpm for a few, bogs down to 500rpm for another few than maintains a solid Idle after warmup. The only think I removed were the Secondary Plates but I still got a cold startup before. What do you think?

 

On the sensor Itself, theres a brown dot In the middle of the 2 prongs. It would have helped more If It leaned more In favour to the respective prong to suggest this prong Is where the brown wire connector goes.

 

It does not matter how you connect the wires at the switch, as long as both are on the switch. The switch is open with no path from one wire to the other, when the water is cold/below a given temperature......and when the water warms up, the switch is made and there is a path from one wire to the other. One wire is to ground, the other to the ECU.

So...now that we know that the switch is open when the water is cold.....someone just tell me how the disconnecting of the switch will eliminate the fast idle start(3000 for 17 seconds). Gotcha.

 

Thanks for the explaination HAILERS. Prior to the Front Engine Harness swap, I had switched the wires around Intentionally. Sorta messing around to see If there would Infact be a difference. I did notice a difference on start up with the wires connected In one way over another. I didn't pay much attention but I do remember a difference though.

You got me on your question.

 

****You got me on your question*******

I've got everybody on that question. I've never seen a satisfactory answer to it. The closest they've come is to say that *empirical evidence supports the idea that removal of the wires disables the 3000rpm on startup*. Can't argue with that. It does indeed get disabled by the removal of the wires on a series four. It just does not make a bit of sense though.