So I was driving home from school today when some of my idiot lights just randomly came on, there was no difference in how the engine was running/sounding and the fluid levels are all good.

The only thing I did notice was that my idol did a little bounce when i was sitting at a stop light 700-1000rpm. Each time the rpm dropped below 1000 the lights went off, moment the rpm went above 1000rpm the lights went back on. My rpms usually do the bounce when I am warming up my car (TPS) but not once it has reached full temp. When I drove it home there was a period where the lights all went off and the car behaved normally (no rpm bounce at stop lights).

help please

 

alternator's on the way out or the connector for it is messed up

what is voltage across the battery?

 

On the dash it was pinned at 16 when the lights came on.... Hmm thanks for the reply

 

Whoa. you got me man b ut my dummy lights are acting up too. my seat belt lights stays on almost the whole time the car is running and will go off every once in a while and the charge light comes goes randomly as well.

 

16v is too high.

 

and 16 is TOO much..it will start Frying stuff..
The idiot lights coming on is a sign that something IS up with the alternator.
The alternator's internal regulator is on it's way out..get it Checked.
you are Welcome for the reply.

 

This happen to me last week. Driving to work and half way there I notice my idiot light came on and right away I thought that the alternator belt broke because it happens to me a lot but then I notice that my volt meter was pinned at 16 Volts!

What happened was the insulation of the 2 wires that is attached to the back of the alternator broke due to old age. It fried my alternator so I went out to strauss and picked me up a new alternator for $116 and also cut back the black tape that hold the bunch of wires together to see if there were any other cracks on the line. I end up wrapping electric tap on the 2 wires that was shorted and it fixed the problem. Just keep a look out of cracked insulation. Good luck buddy. The 16 volt spike might open up some cracks some where else because now I have a ground or another short some where else because of the spike.

 

Alternator voltage regulator is toast or the two prong connector to it in the back of the alternator is loose. Check the connector. If the voltage still pegs, replace the alternator. Do not drive too long with the voltage above 15 V (preferably 14 V max), or you'll start frying stuff. You can disconnect the alternator and drive to the parts store for up to 20-30 minutes on a good battery. You could maybe even last an hour but I wouldn't risk it. Or leave the alternator connected and turn on your lights, defroster, etc. to keep the voltage down whenever you're not idling. After you get a replacement alt, hold on to the warranty info. Replacement alts are notorious for failing after a few days/weeks/months. Whether or not you get a good one is a real gamble. Fortunately they're easy to replace with only wrenches, a rag for the hot alt and a prybar. Pry on the replacement alt to tighten the belt; IIRC it should have around 1/2" give when you press the middle of the long belt with your finger.