Voltage Issues and corrosion
Voltage Issues and corrosion
My positive on my battery corrodes like no other.

Now my issue is when i first (cold) start up my car. If i turn on my headlights or use power my engine will bog and kill. If i rev it past 3000 my dash lights will get brighter but then stay brighter as my engine warms up. Has anyone else had weird issues like this?

Now my issue is when i first (cold) start up my car. If i turn on my headlights or use power my engine will bog and kill. If i rev it past 3000 my dash lights will get brighter but then stay brighter as my engine warms up. Has anyone else had weird issues like this?
For some reason our altonators wont charge till they see that 3000 rpm. After that there ok. My first gen is very bad with that problem, and it has a new alt. At night on first start up all the lights are dim and if it's raining the wipers work very slow. I just rev it once and it charges and everything is back to normal.
Just the cars personallity.
Just the cars personallity.
Well, corrosion on the terminal comes from the battery acid, so you can try a new battery if you feel it is restricting current flow.
The other thing is, that battery cable is tiny compared to the stock cable. Get yourself a nice big positive lead to replace that thing. Overall cable diameter determines the amount of current that can be delivered to all of the electrical systems. If your ground cable is tiny like that too, swap it as well.
The other thing is, that battery cable is tiny compared to the stock cable. Get yourself a nice big positive lead to replace that thing. Overall cable diameter determines the amount of current that can be delivered to all of the electrical systems. If your ground cable is tiny like that too, swap it as well.
For some reason our altonators wont charge till they see that 3000 rpm. After that there ok. My first gen is very bad with that problem, and it has a new alt. At night on first start up all the lights are dim and if it's raining the wipers work very slow. I just rev it once and it charges and everything is back to normal.
Just the cars personallity.
Just the cars personallity.
Well, corrosion on the terminal comes from the battery acid, so you can try a new battery if you feel it is restricting current flow.
The other thing is, that battery cable is tiny compared to the stock cable. Get yourself a nice big positive lead to replace that thing. Overall cable diameter determines the amount of current that can be delivered to all of the electrical systems. If your ground cable is tiny like that too, swap it as well.
The other thing is, that battery cable is tiny compared to the stock cable. Get yourself a nice big positive lead to replace that thing. Overall cable diameter determines the amount of current that can be delivered to all of the electrical systems. If your ground cable is tiny like that too, swap it as well.
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Not really. That is bull. Read ICEMARKS remarks on alternators doing a SEARCH for alternator and Icemark. OR.........see the FSM, ENGINE ELECTRICAL.
The only reason an alternator would not charge until three grand is reached, is that the alternator isn't seeing any power from the Black/White wire on the small alt plug (series four car). Right now I forget the series five wire color. It's in the FSM wiring diagrams
Without that regualtor voltage, that alternator won't last long at all.
The only reason an alternator would not charge until three grand is reached, is that the alternator isn't seeing any power from the Black/White wire on the small alt plug (series four car). Right now I forget the series five wire color. It's in the FSM wiring diagrams
Without that regualtor voltage, that alternator won't last long at all.
Replaced Alternator.
Added a ground.
I even unpluggled the sensor and hot wired it to my Pos battery terminal; started the car and I still have the same issue. Even if i floor it anything below about 1500 it seems to run off my battery. Which is not enough voltage for my TPS which then = engine kill.
Any Ideas what could be wrong?
And what do these crazy numbers mean in the diagram
Added a ground.
I even unpluggled the sensor and hot wired it to my Pos battery terminal; started the car and I still have the same issue. Even if i floor it anything below about 1500 it seems to run off my battery. Which is not enough voltage for my TPS which then = engine kill.
Any Ideas what could be wrong?
And what do these crazy numbers mean in the diagram
Still no luck. I'm going to put my car on the lift and check out the starter area
Well I can't drive from a died stop without my RPMs going down to 800... so if I still cant figure it out I'm just going to throw on a capacitor! And be done with it.
Well I can't drive from a died stop without my RPMs going down to 800... so if I still cant figure it out I'm just going to throw on a capacitor! And be done with it.
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rgordon1979
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