Voltage drop during cranking
#26
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
Disconnect the negative battery terminal and w/the multimeter set to "DC 10A," which usually requires plugging the red meter lead into another plug in spot on the meter, and then place a meter lead on the negative battery post and the other lead on the disconnected cable and see what the meter indicates as this will indicate if you have a voltage draw or not.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ry68G0C2Fyc
http://www.aa1car.com/library/voltage_drop_testing.htm
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ry68G0C2Fyc
http://www.aa1car.com/library/voltage_drop_testing.htm
#27
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (19)
thanks for the video satch, but i dont see how i can use this for my car i have no extra cables on the terminals just the original factory cable the two to the positive and the one black with a yellow stripe cable going to the negative terminal... ill however start from there, i know its the negative, ill double check see how much it drops thanks
#28
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
thanks for the video satch, but i dont see how i can use this for my car i have no extra cables on the terminals just the original factory cable the two to the positive and the one black with a yellow stripe cable going to the negative terminal... ill however start from there, i know its the negative, ill double check see how much it drops thanks
#33
Warheads on foreheads!
iTrader: (8)
Thats part of the reason why you get a spark when you hook up your battery cable.
#37
Rotary Freak
Then there is but one very large cable coming off the battery negative cable that, in stk form, bolted to the long bolt that holds the starter to the transmission. So you check both ends of that cable.
None of the fuses supply power to the wiring in the starter itself. All the wire from the ignitoin switch does is trigger the solenoid on the starter. It does not power the starter itself in any way other than that.
Even if the chassis was not grounded to the batt neg post the starter would whip over just fine since the batt neg and pos post feed directly to the starter.
IF the battery is very good and the cables end fitting are very good and clean, then the starter should spin over just fine unless the starter itself is marginal.
About that cable from the batt to the starter solenoid........when the solenoid engages it passes power from that cable thru the contacts inside the solenoid and on out to the guts of the starter. So a marginal set of solenoid contacts might cause a problem. Not that likely imho.
IF you have a car that when the key is put to Start..........the result is just a click.........now that is a differnt deal altogether.
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