FelixIsGod29X

iTrader: (50)

I shall say it again...

Alex_n/a

iTrader: (1)

now I want to rebuild an engine. I might head to the junkyard and pull an engine. I'll tell them it's a tranny and pay 80$

thanks mister cake for this video.

bumpstart

its a good vid for those who haven't seen this sort of thing before
however i would add tips for those aftermarket oil control seals
- you fit them first before side and corner seals ,, and you seat them into the rotor using a flat piece of wood and a hammer and a few spaced blows

also for those who wish to save an hour of their life,, avoid taking the oil pump down to the keyway ,,
or if done so already,,pre-assemble the cog onto the oil pump shaft keyway

when you fit the chain drive to the crank,, you slip the oil pump and chain on with it ,, and secure the oil pump at its base by the four bolts using a 10mm spanner

this way you will be sure that you have not displaced the keyway under the cog on the oil pump ( no oil pressure ! )
and you will save yourself from the most painful part of the assembly

i also question the value of some of these aftermarket water seals to the mazda price
,, $180 isnt all that much better than the mazda price

-----------however i often use off the roll viton chord as it IS a significant saving
,, and DOES have a better longevity in overheat situations
it DOES take more time in the assembly
but the cost V improvement in overheat redundancy makes the pain worth it

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

I'm very skeptical about many of the aftermarket seals. Many companies seem to be doing apex seals right, but as for the rest of the stuff, there always seems to be a downside. Viton rings may be cheaper but are a pain to install. Graphite gaskets may be cheaper but rely on a perfect surface to seal. Solid corner seals may be cheaper but don't have the little rubber plug to dampen chatter. $200 aftermarket coolant o-rings may be better, but do we need better? Guess that's all part of the decision to make when selecting parts.

The full quality WMV file is 420MB. I guess for those who want it, I could post it up...The quality is a bit better than YouTube and it's at 640 x 480.

Some of the inspection is covered in these two videos:

13B Rotary Disassembly and Cleaning:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W1MXfs_Srs4

Engine Cleaning Continued:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U5A5q61bzRI

I'll copy it to the archives soon.

I wish that it was easy to add something to a YouTube video, but to do so, I'd have to delete the old one and upload a new one. I did cover using an old seal to push the new one in though, which helps quite a lot.

An hour?! In the video it was nearly real time. I think it took only 2 minutes to install the chain. I agree, the first time it can be a big pain but after that it's fairly easy. Just don't let that key fall down! Super glue would likely be a good idea here.

onefastrx712a

iTrader: (1)

great video.. I shouldn't have wasted the money on the Atkins video

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

I wouldn't say that the Atkins video, or any of the vendor rebuild videos are at all a waste of money. After all, you get a physical DVD that you can pop in anytime for reference. Do they have less value now that I have made this video? Well, that's something you'll have to decide...

Ryan123

iTrader: (3)

Haha Great Hannah Montana joke.

I have a quick question for you. Do you feel that doing a full POR-15 paint job on the full car is worth it?

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

A full POR-15 job is something that probably should be discussed in a thread about POR-15. But the short answer is "probably not, but maybe depending on what you are doing".

Also copying to Archives now. This thread remains open for questions and answers.

nycgps

iTrader: (4)

Im trying to get a parts cleaner, what brand do ya use ? (and cleaner)

Thinking of getting this :

http://www.harborfreight.com/20-gall...pump-7340.html

after 20% off is 80 bux. not so bad I guess (even tho the review saids the pump sucks)

as for the cleaner, I heard that some of them "stink", which brand do you use? I will probably leave the cleaner outside my house so the "stink" is not really an issue ... but don't feel like smelling that crap Everytime I need to wash something.

SIDEWAYZE_FC

iTrader: (1)

Awesome video that you could actually build your engine while watching. Not like so many other videos that just zoom through assembly in a couple mins and with no explanation as to whats what or what to look for.

Very awesome vid that will be watched many times over
5 Stars

Spirit-RE

iTrader: (25)

Very informative, as are most of your posts.

nxto

Super entertaining, kept me "busy" at work yesterday =)

tuscanidream

iTrader: (6)

+1 The Atkins video is not junk. It's just missing a lot. It's like they fast forwarded through the whole process. Great for generic idea, not specifics. It's a movie you show other people "this is how a rotary works".

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Looks like a good unit to me. It's typical of the imported units at places like Harbor Freight and Princess Auto.

The solvent I use is called "Dunk" and I buy it at Canadian Tire. Smells like kerosene. I'm sure there is an equivalent at any auto parts store, or you can just mix up a batch of water/degreaser.

Derekcat

iTrader: (8)

lol.. Other than the mind numbing narration and slowly showing you exactly how to apply blue Hylomar to the following areas.... Those parts go on forever... >_<

Black Knight RX7 FC3S

iTrader: (7)

I was at harbor freight today and looked at this washer.
Its capable from what ive seen. you can fit 2 rotor housing inside the unit.
I was thinking about buying it, but was low on cash so I only bought the degreasing cleaner that they had next to the unit. A gallon for $7 lol, I wonder how good it will clean the engine parts.

CrispyRX7

iTrader: (139)

Aaron,
Oustanding....thank you my friend for posting these up. Fantastic stuff!
Two "comments:"

1) Please use eye protection Those chemicals will mess your eyes up as will the compressed air.

2) Do you use anything on your hands? After cleaning an engine for rebuild my hands are destroyed from all the chemicals...especially the brake cleaner...which I too buy by the case

Regards,
Crispy

Ryan123

iTrader: (3)

The prep, cleaning and painting will be extremely difficult, but do you feel that it can be done; you have more experence with it then myself. Ive used the floor kit and epoxy so far.

nopistons2o9

looking foward to watchin vids. cant wait monday start my rebuild

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Yeah...I figure once someone sees Hylomar applies to an o-ring once, there isn't much of a reason to show it 8 more times. Just mention it and go on. Though I wish I had taken a few closeups of inserting the apex seal springs and corner pieces, but in the heat of the moment with sealants drying, sometimes that slips the mind.

I'm not sure any of the rebuild videos really cover side seal clearancing very well.

Just make sure that the degreaser is aluminum safe. If it isn't, make sure to rinse it off before it dries out.

Generally I do, but in the process of going back and forth between doing the work and running the camera they sometimes end up on the bench.

It has taken me a long time to find the hand cleaner that I use. It is made by a local company called "Checkers" and unlike most other hand cleaners. It doesn't have solvents or petroleum products and is loaded with moisturizers. I don't think it's available outside of London. Which is unfortunate because it is the best hand cleaner I've ever used and doesn't dry out the skin. When I get home, good old Vaseline on the skin keeps it from drying out after chemical exposure.

Yes, it can be done. You'd want the entire vehicle down to bare metal, which generally means media blasting. I wouldn't waste time doing that on the exterior sheet metal as standard products protect the car just fine. Rust usually starts from below and seams. You can POR-15 the underside (I did) fairly...not sure if "easily" is the word. The problem comes from the seams. There isn't a good way to get POR-15 into those areas without disassembling half the unibody. The exterior visible sheet metal does fine with a standard epoxy primer and then all the stuff on top of that.