I can't find the eletrical connector for my BAC valve. Is the BAC valve the tube thing that sits on the left side of the block and is tube shaped? Freakin Haynes manual has some POS drawing of a few things and the connection just right in the middle... well yeah that's great in a drawing, how about when connections don't magically FLOAT in the middle of the engine bay retards?

I have a 90 GXL.

If anyone can get a pic up real quick so I can just take that thing off real quick and clean it up, that'd be so great... I'm almost sure now I don't have a vaccum leak and just a shotty BAC because the idle DOES come back, it just takes too long and the engine stalls before it gets a chance.

--Bob

 

BLARGH.

NM I found it, awesome. Unplugging the BAC does absolutely nothing to the idle.

Tomorrow: Time to take this shiz apart and clean it!

Is this an hour job? Can I do this and change my oil before 12 noon you think?

And one more question! With the Master Cylinder there is a "core" charge of 16$ on the cheap ones, what do they consider the core of it? And do Remanufactureds suck?

I'm so poor. I hope insurance doesn't want all 700$ for 6 months up front... otherwise I might be on a credit card diet for the next two weeks. =O

--Bob

 

As long as you've got some RTV sealent, a 10mm wrench, razer blade, and some carb/brake parts cleaner, you can do it in under 30 minutes. It's pretty damned easy.

 

and rags to catch the coolant that will pour out when you take the hoses off