Mr.Cool

iTrader: (2)

i just finished swapping the engine in my 88 na, i got it running but it idles at 3000 rpm, iv tried adjusting the idle set screw and that doesn't seem to do anything, my vacuum hoses might not be all in the right spots so would that do it? when i first started the engine as a test start i didn't have any of the intake attached and no maf hooked up, which should have ment that it would start and then die after it got past 500 rpm, but it didn't it ran and idled beautifully. after i connected the electronics it wouldn't idle anymore, with or without. so now i have it idling but the lowest i can get it is 3000, any ideas?

second question:

which wire if for the oil pressure sender? i dont see any wires that look like they can attach to it. (im reading dead 0 for oil pressure in the car but i know theres plenty. also could the car not sensing oil pressure cause the first problem?

btw does anyone have a vacume diagram for an s4 block with an s5 intake? iv heard there was one but i havent been able to find it.

thanks!

satch

iTrader: (1)

Did your swap involve putting an S4 engine into the car or an S5 engine. If it was an S4 and the fuel check connector was jumpered that would explain why the engine would idle w/o the AFM. Regarding the AFM can you see if the flapper door is opened too much perhaps? Additionally the Initial Set Coupler would need to be jumpered to adjust the Idle Adjust screw on top of the Dynamic Chamber but it won't affect the idle by the amount you need it to to drop it down to a proper level from 3000 rpm to 750 rpm.

Oil pressure sender would have a Yellow/Red wire connected to it and is part of the Engine harness.

Mr.Cool

iTrader: (2)

ill check the afm in a sec, but for the wire you mean this one?

satch

iTrader: (1)

That's the Temp Gauge sender, pictured, which should be flat on one side and the remainder is rounded (at least that is how the 86 plug is shaped) and the wire would be Yellow/White. The plug for the Oil Pressure Sender is rectangular and larger than the Temp Gauge sender plug with an open slot on the side that mates with the part protruding from the sender sensor.

Mr.Cool

iTrader: (2)

well im stumped, i took the afm off and the flap in side closes all the way and is easly movable seems to be ok. put every thing back together nice and tight went back into the car started it, at first it went to 2000 then climbed to 3000 so i waited a bit to see if it would fall off, but nothing. i gave the peddle a light kick to 4000 and it seemed to stick there for a split second then gently come back to 3000.

and i cant find the wire the red/white one is as you decribed flat on one side and rounded the rest of the way. but i dont see the wire your talking about. do you have a picture of it?

satch

iTrader: (1)

I meant to look at the flapper door while the car "was running" to see if it was opened up too much. Also, the throttle cable might be sticking among other things.

Mr.Cool

iTrader: (2)

ok ill try looking at it while its running tomorrow, as far as i know the throttle goes back as far as it can when released iv even pushed the twisty part ( not sure if you would call that linkerage) back and it wont go any further.

maybe it is a vacuum leak. hmmmm

Mr.Cool

iTrader: (2)

well i seemed to have found the problem, while it was running i pushed the nub of the tps in and the idle calmed right down as soon as i let go up up and away all the way back to 3k, so i adjusted the hammer but it wont go far enough, maybe it was put back together offset. so im going to put a dab of hot glue on the end of the tps and go from there.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Your throttle linkage is not set properly and placing glue at the end of the TPS piston so it meets the linkage is a no go as it will send an improper reading to the ECU.

Mr.Cool

iTrader: (2)

so how do i set it up? do i just loosen it off?

satch

iTrader: (1)

You need to figure out why the linkage is too distant away from the TPS piston. This could be caused by a handful of reasons. While the car is running can you press "upward" on the throttle linkage and if so does it cause the idle speed to drop or not? Also, is the new engine an S4 or an S5 and is it turbo or not and is it a Japanese spec or not?

When you say loosen it what do you mean?

Mr.Cool

iTrader: (2)

its a stock s4 na block with an s5 intake, i pushed on it before and it only made a small difference it was vary hard to push anywhere near far enough to make the idle come down. while the engine was off o could snap it open and shut and hear a good clack when it closed. i have an rtek 2.0 so wouldent adjusting the tps through that make it better?

Mr.Cool

iTrader: (2)

by loosen i ment the nut on the side of the linkage? sorry iv never dealt with adjusting the actual linkage before.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Adjusting the TPS won't make the idle drop 2000 rpm but the Green/Red wire at the TPS plug should read 1 volt w/key to on and the engine fully warmed up. On the back of the throttle body is the Thermowax which has an upside down screw whose tip touches a metal piston. There is a rounded mushroom shape device which makes it hard to access the screw and its associated linkage but with the car running reach at the linkage from the passenger fender and focus on the flat metal linkage that has the rounded mushroom device touching it as it too has a white small piston touching this flat linkage so pull on the flat metal linkage towards you and see if it changes the idle speed as in lowering it. If the rounded mushroom device is set too close to the flat metal linkage that it rests upon then it will force the throttle plate to open too much thus causing a high idle. It is very simple to adjust this rounded device to see if it is the cause of the high idle. If the thermowax piston does not extend enough it too will cause a high idle. When the engine is clearly cold you can dump some boiling water on the Thermowax and observe the piston to see if it extends fully or not. If the plastic intake connected to the throttle body is removed the primary throttle plate should be all but closed. Too much of an opening gap leads to too high of an idle. Lastly, does this car have cruise control for if it does it has a cable connected to it which if not set properly could cause the idle to be too high.

Mr.Cool

iTrader: (2)

im not realy shure which part your talking about, i looked at the back of the throttle body i could see a set screw, i couldent move any part of it by hand, also theres a metal thing with a white nub sticking out of it, it didnt contact anything but i tryed pushing it in, it made no difference in the idle. with the glue my idle is bouncing between 1500 and 1700 which i would say is normal refencing from my old engine, its -8 C out and thats what my old engine would do below 0 C.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Pushing the plastic white nub in won't do anything if it isn't touching the flat metal part of the throttle linkage to begin with. You can remove this part to access the linkage that is part of the upside down screw. This linkage should be able to be pressed downward and in doing so the the primary throttle plate closes thus causing the idle to drop. And what about the car being equipped w/cruise control or not? And if the car is fully warmed up the Thermowax piston should extend fully. Does it?

Mr.Cool

iTrader: (2)

yes the car has cruse control, is the cruse control cable the one that goes to the cylinder thats next to the charcoal canister and sub zero start asist fluid? if so i purposely left that cable slack for now. ill have to try warming it up tomorrow, its midnight here and my neighbors are going to start complaining if i keep firing it up at this time of night.

satch

iTrader: (1)

When the car is cold try the boiling water trick and see how much the piston of the Thermowax extends compared to how it extends such as now when you have the car running.

Mr.Cool

iTrader: (2)

but couldnt poring boiling water on my -8 C absolute frozen engine components be dangerous? couldnt it crack something in the way putting a cold glass in hat water would. the temps seem to extreme -8 to 100 it might break something.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Not sure how cold your temp scale is as I am used to the Farenheit scale. Wait until tomorrow to do it anyway as you want to compare how it extends with the engine cold but boiling water poured on it compared to how it extends with the car running and fully warmed up. Also the Thermowax is activated by coolant running to it via a coolant hose that runs from the water pump that gets coolant from the radiator/engine so when warmed up the coolant temp is around 175 degrees farenheit. In other words it is scalding hot.

Mr.Cool

iTrader: (2)

in fahrenheit the engine is sitting at 14 boiling water is at 212 and that can easily damage a part. the day dosnt help much temp wise tomorrow is supposed to be hi of 40 low of 32.

Mr.Cool

iTrader: (2)

ill try gradually warming it up a bit with water, then ill switch to boiling water.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Again, the Thermowax will heat up to over 175 degrees Farenheit when the car warms up. If what I suggest would hurt the car then so would running it.

Mr.Cool

iTrader: (2)

lol i just ment the quick snap in temperature change an engine warming up gets warm gradually so the metal and components have time to expand. the engine dosnt go from stone cold to as soon as it starts BAM! 175. lol so im going to warm it up a bit first then use the boiling water, so im going from like 100 to 212 instead of 14 to 212 in only 2 seconds.

satch

iTrader: (1)

If your high temp tomorrow was 40 degrees F then it won't make a difference but it's your car so you do what you have to do. I mean if you had a thermometer which has a high range you could allow the water to cool down to around 175 F if it makes you feel better.