Vert back disk brakes, different than front?
06-27-16, 03:56 PM
#1
Admitted 'rexaholic'
Thread Starter
Vert back disk brakes, different than front?
Hi guys, probably a dumb question but what if any differences in the rotors or pads front or back? Any tips? I'm going to replace all 4 so need to make sure I buy the right parts, done front brakes on cars before so not a total newbie.
Thanks!
Thanks!
06-27-16, 04:06 PM
#2
Should be 4 piston rectangle style up front and vented in the back. Same as Turbo, GXL, and GTUs. Unless someone replaced the rears with incorrect non vented which would also require the incorrect calipers etc. You can tell just by taking a quick peek through the wheel spokes though.
Last edited by NCross; 06-27-16 at 04:08 PM.
06-27-16, 05:19 PM
#4
In the rear you may have vented (upgrade) or solid (base) rotors but the pads and hardware are the same for both.
If you've never seen this style rear caliper before, here's a tip:
The piston in the rear caliper does NOT press in, it screws. There's a special tool (available at every box auto store) to use that makes it quite simple, although it can be done with just needlenoses if you're lucky.
06-27-16, 07:42 PM
#5
Admitted 'rexaholic'
Thread Starter
Fronts are probably four piston calipers (easy enough to check) but might be the base single piston units...the pads would be different but the rotors are the same in either case.
In the rear you may have vented (upgrade) or solid (base) rotors but the pads and hardware are the same for both.
If you've never seen this style rear caliper before, here's a tip:
The piston in the rear caliper does NOT press in, it screws. There's a special tool (available at every box auto store) to use that makes it quite simple, although it can be done with just needlenoses if you're lucky.
In the rear you may have vented (upgrade) or solid (base) rotors but the pads and hardware are the same for both.
If you've never seen this style rear caliper before, here's a tip:
The piston in the rear caliper does NOT press in, it screws. There's a special tool (available at every box auto store) to use that makes it quite simple, although it can be done with just needlenoses if you're lucky.
The rear rotor is solid, may have been replaced at some point. The rest I wont know for sure till I start taking stuff apart. Will I need to remove the piston?
06-27-16, 09:44 PM
#7
No, you needn't remove the piston but typically you would have to screw it in to make room for the new, thicker pad.
The only difference between the two rear calipers is the width of the caliper body to accommodate the wider vented rotor...it may work out putting the vented caliper on a solid rotor (the reverse would not work)- never tried, don't know.
The only difference between the two rear calipers is the width of the caliper body to accommodate the wider vented rotor...it may work out putting the vented caliper on a solid rotor (the reverse would not work)- never tried, don't know.
Trending Topics
06-28-16, 08:16 AM
#8
Do the calipers have ribs/fins on them or are they smooth cast? If you have ribbed calipers and solid rotors something is wrong. I've never tried to interchange rear brake parts, but it seems to me that the rib cast caliper would overextend its piston trying to compensate for the thinner rotor thickness. If they are incorrect... I would change the rear brakes out ASAP to ribbed calipers and vented rotors. Pads should be them same for all 84-92 RX7 with 13B. 12A rear pads are different FYI.
Last edited by NCross; 06-28-16 at 08:19 AM.
06-28-16, 08:22 AM
#9
MECP Certified Installer
Do the calipers have ribs/fins on them or are they smooth cast? If you have ribbed calipers and solid rotors something is wrong. I've never tried to interchange rear brake parts, but it seems to me that the rib cast caliper would overextend its piston trying to compensate for the thinner rotor thickness. If they are incorrect... I would change the rear brakes out ASAP to ribbed calipers and vented rotors. Pads should be them same.
If the ribbed caliper is there, change the rotor to the proper vented rotor before you blow the caliper seals from over extension. If you change the pads out, there is a cheap tool you can by at the auto parts store to screw the caliper back in, is it doesnt just press back in like the front due to the parking brake mechanism.
06-28-16, 08:29 AM
#10
Licensed Zip Tie Mechanic
I just bought a set of Hawk pads for my vert and I can't seem to get them on the back rotors - It's like the pad is too thick and won't clear the rotor when you try to slip the caliper back on....totally weird. And it's definitely screwed in all the way.
06-28-16, 08:40 AM
#11
MECP Certified Installer
How thick are they? Factory spec pads are relatively thin. Some aftermarket pads have a thicker friction material layer for longer life and better heat dissipation, but won't fit in a stock caliper.
Just off memory, the friction layer on a stock pad isn't any thicker than 10mm, if that.
Just off memory, the friction layer on a stock pad isn't any thicker than 10mm, if that.
06-28-16, 10:11 AM
#14
Licensed Zip Tie Mechanic
How thick are they? Factory spec pads are relatively thin. Some aftermarket pads have a thicker friction material layer for longer life and better heat dissipation, but won't fit in a stock caliper.
Just off memory, the friction layer on a stock pad isn't any thicker than 10mm, if that.
Just off memory, the friction layer on a stock pad isn't any thicker than 10mm, if that.
06-28-16, 10:12 AM
#15
Admitted 'rexaholic'
Thread Starter
I was just thinking the same thing, unless someone put on some monster 20mm thick brake pads on it.
If the ribbed caliper is there, change the rotor to the proper vented rotor before you blow the caliper seals from over extension. If you change the pads out, there is a cheap tool you can by at the auto parts store to screw the caliper back in, is it doesnt just press back in like the front due to the parking brake mechanism.
If the ribbed caliper is there, change the rotor to the proper vented rotor before you blow the caliper seals from over extension. If you change the pads out, there is a cheap tool you can by at the auto parts store to screw the caliper back in, is it doesnt just press back in like the front due to the parking brake mechanism.
06-28-16, 12:28 PM
#17
MECP Certified Installer
I can't really tell but that looks like a vented rotor caliper affixed to a non-vented rotor. Can you pull the wheel off and take a pic from close up and then a few feet away?
That would help tremendously.
That would help tremendously.
06-28-16, 01:07 PM
#19
Admitted 'rexaholic'
Thread Starter
Is a vented rotor like a slotted? How does it look different so I'll know when I get the new rotors?
06-28-16, 07:56 PM
#23
Admitted 'rexaholic'
Thread Starter
07-01-16, 06:02 PM
#24
Admitted 'rexaholic'
Thread Starter
Here's right rear, what do you guys think? Also, to remove everything just take out the bottom bolt and it'll swing out? Got some rust there so I'll have to find a persuader in the tool chest..
Cant budge the thing..is there something I'm missing? Don't want to wail away on it with a hammer till I check with the gurus..
Cant budge the thing..is there something I'm missing? Don't want to wail away on it with a hammer till I check with the gurus..
Last edited by mwpayne; 07-01-16 at 06:10 PM.
07-01-16, 07:16 PM
#25
Red Pill Dealer
iTrader: (10)
Dude, you could be in for a real PIA getting those rear rotors off. I toasted the hub on the first one I tried, they're aluminum and distort real easy compared to the bond formed from different metals over time. There was a recent thread on this and the guy busted the hat off the disc trying to get it off in a hydrolic press.
I know better now but at the time, I'd swear someone JB welded disc the to the hub.
Good luck and use heat. Yes, this may mean yo might have to replace a seal or two.
I know better now but at the time, I'd swear someone JB welded disc the to the hub.
Good luck and use heat. Yes, this may mean yo might have to replace a seal or two.