2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Vert back disk brakes, different than front?

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Old Jul 1, 2016 | 07:33 PM
  #26  
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From: Seymour, TN
Originally Posted by TonyD89
Dude, you could be in for a real PIA getting those rear rotors off. I toasted the hub on the first one I tried, they're aluminum and distort real easy compared to the bond formed from different metals over time. There was a recent thread on this and the guy busted the hat off the disc trying to get it off in a hydrolic press.

I know better now but at the time, I'd swear someone JB welded disc the to the hub.

Good luck and use heat. Yes, this may mean yo might have to replace a seal or two.
I'd love to get to that point, but thus far I cant even get the caliper bracket off...
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Old Jul 1, 2016 | 08:58 PM
  #27  
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It was stuck so bad (and pfsantos had the same problem) that I had to remove the whole rear hub/knuckle assembly. I'm not saying yours will be as bad but, I'm just giving you warning. And your rear disc are vented like they should be.

Good luck.
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Old Jul 1, 2016 | 09:26 PM
  #28  
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I wish you where my neighbor, we would of knocked this off this evening.

You are getting good advice from these bros.
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Old Jul 2, 2016 | 05:55 AM
  #29  
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From: Seymour, TN
Originally Posted by Jager
I wish you where my neighbor, we would of knocked this off this evening.

You are getting good advice from these bros.
Fortunately my neighbor is a mechanic..rolls his eyes about rotaries (partly because he knows nothing about them, partly to annoy me) but had the calipers off in about 10 seconds. The rotors, however...no budgee..I've sprayed everything with kroil, we'll try an impact screwdriver on those big Philips screws later this weekend. Going to order new brake hoses too.
Thanks guys for all the sage advise!
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Old Jul 2, 2016 | 07:51 AM
  #30  
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From: Mesquite, TX-DFW
Originally Posted by mwpayne
Fortunately my neighbor is a mechanic..rolls his eyes about rotaries (partly because he knows nothing about them, partly to annoy me) but had the calipers off in about 10 seconds. The rotors, however...no budgee..I've sprayed everything with kroil, we'll try an impact screwdriver on those big Philips screws later this weekend. Going to order new brake hoses too.
Thanks guys for all the sage advise!
I see a drill bit in your future...

Those are not coming out!
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Old Jul 2, 2016 | 07:56 AM
  #31  
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I've had luck getting those screws out with a hammer impact driver they are fairly soft alloy it's not hard to strip to head out if that happens then you are drilling and extracting the screw, Sea Foam Deep Creep works really well as a penetrating oil too I would try and spray that behind the rotor even on the lug studs if that doesn't work go to heat and a BFH
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Old Jul 2, 2016 | 10:02 AM
  #32  
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Yep gonna be a challenge for sure. Where would you guys suggest I buy the brake lines? Not looking for stainless, just the stock rubber ones.
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Old Jul 2, 2016 | 12:58 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by mwpayne
Yep gonna be a challenge for sure. Where would you guys suggest I buy the brake lines? Not looking for stainless, just the stock rubber ones.
If I were just replacing hoses, I'd probably go with Rock Auto.
There is absolutely no performance advantage when braided steel and OEM rubber hoses (both new) are used in anything less than a full race scenario.

That said, in a similar position as you I went braided but I bought generic (Russel, I think) so I could get longer hoses and delete the mystifying short metal line Mazda stuck in there. That's just an extra leak point , far as I'm concerned.
I was able to piece them together at a local speed shop for just about what Mazdatrix sells their replacement braided kit (@$90).
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Old Jul 2, 2016 | 02:05 PM
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I think brake sensitivity goes up with SS braided lines, maybe personal experience. I got the ones for my DD in a package deal from Stoptech. Four slotted (vented front, solid rear. Just avoiding confusion) discs, nice semi metallic pads (I wouldn't recommend ceramic, they don't stop as well. I like my brakes to work good), and SS braided lines and all hardware. The price was right.

Rockauto is OK, I've used them but find if you need it now, NAPA is just as good if not better on quality. Price, maybe not so much.
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Old Jul 3, 2016 | 10:42 AM
  #35  
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I buy all of my parts through either Atkins for OEM or Worldpac. Ask you mechanic neighbor if he can order them Worldpac for you through his shop.

If the phillips rotor lock screws dont budge with ease the first couple tries, that means they will NOT come off without drilling through the heads.
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