Variable Resistor?
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If I were you, I would check out the rtek 2.0 ecu upgrade. It provides most of the functionality of a standalone and is plug and play. The price is only $400, so about $800 less than a standalone system. Check out their site for the S4 NA:
http://www.pocketlogger.com/index.ph...age=2&ecu=S4NA
Josh
http://www.pocketlogger.com/index.ph...age=2&ecu=S4NA
Josh
#5
The variable resistor adjusts you idle air fuel mix. When your car is idleing at its normal 750 and all the way warmed up jump the initial set coupler and then go over to the variable screw, put it in the middle, and slowly turn it counter clockwise (lean) until its starts to die down a little and stutter then turn it clockwise (rich) until the engine RPMs go up and it idles fine. What you will be doing is adjusting your air fuel ratio for the idle so you are gunna want to get it as level and clean as possible.
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The variable resistor adjusts you idle air fuel mix. When your car is idleing at its normal 750 and all the way warmed up jump the initial set coupler and then go over to the variable screw, put it in the middle, and slowly turn it counter clockwise (lean) until its starts to die down a little and stutter then turn it clockwise (rich) until the engine RPMs go up and it idles fine. What you will be doing is adjusting your air fuel ratio for the idle so you are gunna want to get it as level and clean as possible.
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The variable resistor adjusts you idle air fuel mix. When your car is idleing at its normal 750 and all the way warmed up jump the initial set coupler and then go over to the variable screw, put it in the middle, and slowly turn it counter clockwise (lean) until its starts to die down a little and stutter then turn it clockwise (rich) until the engine RPMs go up and it idles fine. What you will be doing is adjusting your air fuel ratio for the idle so you are gunna want to get it as level and clean as possible.
However before you do any of that, disconnect it from the harness, and bring it to your multimeter. You can test it by attaching the multimeter to it and turning it back and forth and look at the resistence. It should be linear from one side to the other. If there's any dead spots, or parts where it reads 0Ohms or Max Ohms out of place then your Resistor is fubbared.
If you'd like to do the radio shack thing save the plug and just cut it enough away from the busted resistor to allow the new resistor to be soldered in its place. Pretty straight forward.
What pill? The variable resistor is not connected to vacuum. Are you referencing the Pressure Sensor? You must be as that's the only vac line I can think of near the Variable Resistor that has a pill in it. That too might be responsible for the oscilating idle of fc3schick87, however I'd be more inclined to think the TPS is out of adjustment or dead.
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Originally Posted by fonzi581
Thanks a lot lax-rotor. You have been a gigantic help. Im gonna test it tomorrow.
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